I love when people can narrow things down ahead of time. You have no idea how many people come in the greenhouse looking for a plant and don't volunteer stuff like what direction the window faces or how big it is or whether it's obstructed. And almost nobody knows whether they kill by overwatering or underwatering. Sassafras_springs, please come shop at my store. The obvious choices, the first and second ones I thought of, were heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum) and pothos (Epipremnum aureum). Both viners, both tough, both willing to miss the occasional watering, and both are now available in a few different color versions. I'm especially fond of Philodendron hederaceum micans (though as someone has posted elsewhere on GW, it's a slow grower, and thirsty) and Philodendron hederaceum 'Lemon-Lime.' People like 'Brasil,' too, though it's rumored to be fussy, by Philodendron standards. Pothos and I have been having some issues lately (I repotted one plant and it immediately rotted out on me, and the other one is dropping leaves because it thinks it's too dry, all of a sudden), but I still really like Epipremnum aureum 'Neon,' which is bright yellow. They're all nice, though. Other possibilities: Asparagus sprengeri (asparagus fern) -- though you may not want to pick leaves out of your freshly-washed clothes, so never mind. Chlorophytum comosum (spider plant) -- these do well pretty much anywhere, but should be good in that spot in particular. Cissus rhombifolia (grape ivy) -- I've become a fan of this one lately, especially the 'Ellen Danica' cultivar (sometimes called "oakleaf ivy"). Better for a cooler room than a warmer one, and they're not as tolerant about missing waterings as the others, but they're pretty, and not something everybody else has, at least not yet. Check for spider mites before buying, and on a regular basis after buying. Ficus pumila (creeping fig) -- haven't had this one personally, and only know it from work. Ours don't seem to be hugely tolerant of drought, but it's hard to say. We don't have very many, and they don't sell well, so we don't give them a lot of attention. Or at least, I don't. Hoya carnosa -- should do quite well, though an east or west window might be better, and I wouldn't hold my breath for flowers. Still, they're nice plants. Check for mealybugs before you buy: they're very tasty plants, apparently. There are trailing species of Peperomia that I think would do well in that location, though I'm drawing a blank on anything specific. They (as a rule) like humidity and drying out between watering, so you should be compatible. Platycerium bifurcatum (staghorn fern) -- People seem to have wildly different experiences with these, and I don't know how they might work for you, but it's an outside possibility. Plectranthus nummularis (Swedish ivy) -- would prefer more light and cooler temperatures, but it would grow in that spot. Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant) -- easy to grow and would be happy in that location. They're also a really good choice for hydroculture, if you want to take the guesswork out of when to water entirely.

Thanks for the response kirkhall! Here is another piece of info that's important: ***Bedroom #3 is actually big enough to be a master bedroom by my neighbourhood standards, and has back deck access. I feel weird giving this bedroom to one of my 2 kids, not only because it has the deck access, but also because it is so much larger than the other child's bedroom. (Currently, both kids are in the tiny bedroom, but this needs to change soon.) Another option would be to give one child the big master bedroom (19x11) and keep Bedroom #3 for myself, but then the issue is that one child gets a HUGE bedroom (bigger than their parents') and the other gets a tiny one. So in short: I would really like a new bedroom layout with roughly equal sized kids' bedrooms AND a bigger bathroom, if possible. I think this would be good for resale too.**** Here are my comments on your ideas: - I really like the idea of stealing room from bed #3 to make the existing bathroom bigger. I'll need to play around with that. It would be less costly, I would imagine. Bed #3 would then become a bit smaller, and would be more in line with the other child's bedroom. The back deck access is still an issue, but maybe it's ok. You can't have everything. - In the existing layout, I really like your idea of stealing space from bed#1 and giving it to bed#2 and then putting a powder room in there, maybe in between them, but HOW? - yes, ceiling downstairs is unfinished, and I have ready access to underside of main floor. Comments on my plan: - bed #2 in the new design DOES meet the code for my province. The code is 6 square metres (64 square feet) if a closet is provided, or 7 square metres (75 sf) where no closet is provided. At 77.64 (with closet), and 86.32 sf (no closet), it seems to pass. - privacy: Where the current bathroom is situated, you can peer into it from the living room. So, even though it's far away from the living space, it is still visible.

I live in a very dusty area and everything collects dust and I have bad allergies. Everything will get dusty, so if you pick what can be easily cleaned, it works out pretty well. I chose what can either be thrown into the washing machine, like washable curtains/drapes, or something that can be very easily vacuumed (roller blinds, cellular shades). I didn't find mini-blinds or venetian blinds to be easy to vacuum. In the bathroom there is a window facing the neighboring house (something we never want to look at) so we put frosted window film that sticks by static cling (no adhesive). That does not collect dust. We can still open the window a bit for cross-ventilation but still have 100% privacy. JC Penny had a lot of washable drape choices. They have worked out well for me.

If you have a curb, you will have the cracks develop there, too. and where the walls meet the floor. Anywhere where two different materials meet or where one surface meets another that is in a different direction (known as "change of plane"). My contractor still grouts such places, too. But I did a solid surface shower that he could not do wrong. I am keeping an eye on the place where the floor meets the shower pan, all other places are in dry areas. So there it is just cosmetic. I would guess that water can get behind your tile with those cracks. If properly waterproofed it is fine, but if not, I would get to this as soon as you can. A lot of shower builders do not use waterproofing, even though it is now required. If you do a search on this forum for "Shower waterproof," you can see many discussions about it and learn what is and is not waterproof. (Redguard yes, Durock no, for instance.)