Thanks so much for the input!! You are so right. The fridge top cabinets will need a step ladder to get to the top or back but that's OK because they will store back-ups of TP/paper towels/ziplocks etc. - crap that currently resides on top of the fridge. I'm going to go with a standard sink height and depth with a removable counter over the washer/dryer. Fridge is big (36wx33d) and freezer is avg (32w29.5d). Follow up question: Is allocating space for both the fridge and the freezer the best use of space? Am I better off allocating that space to a nice built in utility cabinet? We only plan to stay in this house another 5 years or so, which means I want it to work for us but also not be so customized that it doesn't suit the average home buyer. We have a counter depth fridge in the kitchen plus a full sized fridge in the basement, so the laundry room the 3rd fridge in the house. If it goes out, we would not replace it. Unfortunately the placement of the electrical panel doesn't allow us to use the whole length of the room for built in cabinets, but I could put the extra fridge in the end corner and still meet code for clearance around the panel. Thanks again for the input!! Choice #1 building in space for our freezer and 3rd fridge. No room for a utility cabinet. Vacuum and hose will have to live in the back corner by the freezer. Choice #2 adding a utility cabinet, but no room for the "extra" fridge. It can go in the end corner and still have enough space around the electrical panel to meet code. Vacuum and hose can go in utility cabinet. Choice #2 view from the door.

I had the cabinets made locally, to my specs. I spent a lot of time figuring all the dimensions out for the set I could use. My space was limited so I had to commit to European dimensions for the w/d setup. In my case I have Miele, but Bocsh would work too. The height that the lower cabinet ends is at 35" and is the bottom shelf height of the mid section that is stacked on top. The ironing board unfolds to 35.5" high. It was spec'd by me to be a Halfla, but a Rev-a-shelf got put in. I didn't have them change it even though they offered to do so. It has worked just fine. I don't use it often. It is backwards to my right handed ironing position, but that is the way the layout ended out with all my revisions. I knew that would be an issue, and looked at multiple options, but nothing out weighed the current layout for my needs, so the ironing board is really for a left handed ironer, lol. Regarding hanging, I have a little pull out valet hanging feature mounted at about 6' at the top of the mid section. I use that to hang clothes on. Another issue to consider, is the access to the dryer clean out vent, electrical 240, and water turn off. I can reach all that through the back of the mid section by removing a false back, and the lower section has small cutout, open to the wall so I can get to 120 electric outlet as needed. The whole cabinet is rather deep to accommodate the depth of the w/d. I hope you don't mind a few more pictures of some details. My carpenter really helped me with the problem solving. He did not make these cabinets but recommended I go to this company for the custom build due to my design. My carpenter did custom my cabinets for my other bathroom and did a wonderful job. the cutout on the lower right is inside the cabinet for iron, and a plug and play LED that I installed on another shelf. I didn't think of having the electrician install LED in this setup until we got finished. I had him do LED in every other cabinet though, and love it. The plug and play works ok too. I have an on/off infrared switch that I integrated into the system so that when the door opens the light comes on: Lower area with cutout for 120, shelf plastic is laying on this bottom shelf: my pulled out valet rod for hanging things: The upper most stack, along with a small view of the center section with the LED plug and play light that I made up to fit. The very top board that is laying on top of the toilet seat in the upper right, is the false back to the water shut off. I just leave it off now, and am careful not to allow things to fall down the back of the shelf.:

I prefer closed cabinets in a room if possible to avoid the clutter of detergents and cleaning supplies on open shelves. Some people decant their detergents and supplies into pretty containers on open shelves and while I appreciate that look, I can’t be trusted to maintain it. Most of our laundry is hung instead of folding so we need a clothes rod. It’s also handy for hanging wet items over the sink so the water doesn’t accumulate on the counter top. Other people prefer a drying rack or even both sometimes. Here are photos of both, there are a variety of styles. Also, here’s an example of a work table you could float in front of your machines, much like a kitchen island provides a good work surface. This one has a shelf underneath if you want to stow laundry baskets out of the way. Really, the point is to get a comfortable height work surface, the style is your preference. While you’re doing laundry, notice your routine, what bugs you about the process and what would make it easier and set your space up accordingly.

I renovated the garage laundry area in my niece's house a few years ago. It was an easy DIY project. I laid sheet vinyl in the garage alcove and covered the cement lip of the foundation with vinyl base. I edged the sheet vinyl with a vinyl reducer strip to finish the raw edge and transition to the rest of the cement garage floor. I replaced the 45-year-old washer supply valves and installed cabinets (from Home Depot) for storage. I built a table using a hollow-core door cut in half that I reinforced and painted for the side panels, and ¾” melamine-coated particle board that I cut to the dimensions I wanted for the top and center support. I edged the table with 1”x2” maple that I sanded and gave a clear polyurethane finish. I made a small melamine-particle board box that sits on one corner of the table to cover the water valves and drain pipe. The table can be unscrewed from the wall and the vertical cabinet and moved easily in case service is needed on the W&D. The total cost including the new W&D was about $3000. Everything has held up well for 4 years. Here are before and after pictures. You have a great space to work with! Go for it!