Need help re tiling behind a pedestal sink
teddie2
2 years ago
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teddie2
2 years agoteddie2
2 years agoRelated Discussions
need help with sizing a pedestal sink
Comments (7)I changed from a 24" vanity to a 26" pedestal. (To be honest, I measured so long prior to ordering, I didn't realize I was ordering a larger sink. Oops.) You want to make certain you meet code with the distance between the sink and the toilet. I believe 30" is the building code (though someone with actual professional experience is welcome to correct me). Other than that, you should take into consideration the location of your plumbing (and whether you can move it), how close to the wall you want your sink, and whether your walls are square. I ended up moving my plumbing slightly in order to meet the specifications of my pedestal sink. Because a pedestal sink exposes more of the wall underneath, having the plumbing neatly tucked behind the pedestal (as much as possible) is nice. I also chose to have a mostly 1" gap between the wall and the sink because the wall is not square. This was a powder room (can't recall the dimensions off hand) and I used 16x16 set on the square. In my opinion, larger tiles (12x12+) can add a feeling of spaciousness. But, I also like small mosaic-style tiles. It's really just a personal preference. You could look for inspiration pictures (such as on sites like Houzz.com) to see different sizes of tiles and how they visually impact the appearance of the room....See Morepedestal tub in alcove w/o window for hall bath? bad idea for res
Comments (6)I'm presently adding a tub alcove to an old bath which will turn it into our master bath and part of a new "suite" . I love Sarah Richardson's designs, like her program because she always explains the decision making process. In the link you gave to her bathrooms, the first photo shows the hand held "British telephone set" option for a shower. That is the one I've chosen for my clawfoot slipper tub. I did not want a curtain or any of the attendant hardware. There is a standup shower elsewhere in the house, and this bath of ours is strictly for the TUB experience. I did not want any mildew and mold issues with it. And the alcove is still under construction, so I cannot give pictures of it. They are framing the walls on three sides now, and will soon knock down the existing exterior wall in the old bath, which will give us a space approximately 6 foot long by 5 foot deep as an alcove. The tub is about 28 inches wide, and 60 inches long. The tub rim is drilled for the faucet set, which will go down through the floor. The tub will be pointed WEST, and that 5 foot wide end wall will have a nice sized antique stained glass window in it (which was salvaged from an old house in downtown Mobile). I picked it because of the warm golds and reds and greens and creams in it, because a tub bath at sunset is a great experience. The walls in the alcove will have beadboard up to the high clerestory windows (Lexan) on the wall behind the tub, and then the sloping ceiling will also be beadboard. The old or existing part of the bathroom will have the thick and molded plaster walls removed to install wallboard with beadboard wainscoting below. The toilet and sink are already installed in their new spots, with the rebuilt American Standard 1.6 gallon flush toilet having a Toto washlet on it. I'm having blocking put inside the walls now so I can add grab bars in the future. Also blocking in the ceiling so I can place hooks for my humidity-loving hanging baskets...about four of them where I won't bang my head. And in the middle, a Kichler Palla 3 light mini chandelier which will be high enough not to present a problem...or so I'm told. That open ceiling over the tub will be 9 foot or more at its highest, so I will find out this Tuesday how to hang the chandelier when the electrician arrives. Just so I cannot reach it while standing in a tub of water, I think that is the criteria, right?...See Morespace needed for faucet behind farmhouse sink?
Comments (6)There is no one answer to your question. The variables are: -- depth of sink front to back -- front panel and sides of sink and whether those permit bumping out (not all farm sink sides are the same nor all the front panels the same) -- way the sink will be mounted under/flush with/or above the counter --interior cabinet construction -- how the faucet operates and how it will be installed. --faucet stem thickness can be an issue or sometimes there is a flange underneath to hold the faucet in place which needs clearance below. Perhaps you are aware that sinks and faucets have specification diagrams (we call those downloads) with all this critical installation information. My suggestion is to download the diagrams for each sink under consideration and read them very carefully. The inside measurements of the sink cannot be used for this purpose -- anyone who tells says such and such is ok without consulting the diagram I wouldn't trust. The person who orders and specifies the cabinets should also be given copies of those sheets as well as all the spec sheets for appliances (you likely know this but just in case). I made a booklet of those for the designer plus 2 others -- one for the plumber and one for the contractor. No one can say they don't have the right info. Likewise, download the spec sheets for any faucet considered. Pay special attention to the thickness of the faucet stem and the way the faucet operates. F.ex. some faucets turn on by pulling sideways but alo need to swivel from front to back to go from cold to hot. There must be enough space behind the faucet to permit that. Or, since you're concerned about leaning in, perhaps it would be a good idea to look at one of the Grohe faucets that can be front mounted -- that is with the control facing in and over the sink. That can be very helpful when space is tight....See MoreKitchen remodel: BS help, stainless behind range?, area over sink
Comments (0)Hello! This is my first time posting, and I would really appreciate some guidance/inspiration on what to do with the remainder of our kitchen. We recently bought a 70's brick ranch as a flip--we might stay, but we're also looking into selling it in 3-5 years. What I'm getting hung up on is that our shaker style cabinets feel simple/modern, while the granite feels more rustic, and so I'm feeling stuck on where to go with backsplash. We like an earthy inspired feel but not too rustic. That said my boyfriend's pick is 110% the Picasso trav, his second pick was ceramic beveled. What I'd like help with: Style of backsplash: plain subway, beveled, crackle, tumbled? We would like to be under $10/sqft. Should we keep the stainless backsplash? I know it's easier to clean, but what do people think looks best or most appealing to buyers? Are behind the range tile accents now dated? Would you put shelves on either side of the window? Should that area be left open? Inspiration for lighting over the island. We're doing can lights throughout kitchen and dining room. We'd like to eventually swap the cab hardware to oil rubbed bronze, something with clean, square lines. All other lighting, fixtures, hardware in open area are ORB. I'm open to any design advice in general! Please excuse our mess as we are still renovating, but here are some photos. The floors are dark brown oak. The kitchen: Close up of ceramic cream beveled, Essenze Greige, Essenze Bianco, Rixi Noce (which is too dark). The last 3 are crackle although the photo doesn't show it well: Picasso, and a honed trav subway: Poitiers, ignore the molding style it's just for color: The photo that made me interested in glass bevel subway, which is surprisingly hard to find in beige/cream!: https://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/b5e29c6a03d5ef78_8-9406/home-design.jpg Better view of island w/ dining room in background. The fixture in the dining room is from Kichler's Barrington collection....See MoreDiana Bier Interiors, LLC
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