There are nurseries specializing in oversized trees. About ten twelve years ago I bought a zelkhova with a trunk 4 inches in diameter for a couple of hundred dollars. I imagine prices have gone up. I am told thre is a real price break at 4 inches. Bigger than that and prices really rise. Such nurseries however are not really retail nurseries. You'd be an afterthought. They service mainly developers. You might be better off buying from Behnkes, who'd get it from a dealer. When I bought my big trees I waited until fall. The summers in our area are much tougher than the fall. You'd have to set up a regular watering program etc. I also bought a 2 inch willow oak. Worked out--it is now largish---but I wouldn't describe it as wider than taller. Furthermore, it doesn't really shade the house. I planted it near the property line to shade the patio. It will take a long time before it shadows my 2 story house.

From what I've read pool diatomaceous earth isn't as sharp as the stuff sold for gardens - it's been processed in some way. If you are looking for it for slugs, best to get diatomaceous earth for gardening. Another thing to be aware of, don't breathe it in - the sharp edges that damage the slugs aren't good for your lungs either, so wear respiratory protection and then water before working in the garden if it's dry.

Hope you have found some good heirlooms to try this year. You had a pretty good selection last year. Cherokee Purple is one of my favorites. Sun Gold is the only hybrid I grow. A really neat cherry is Black Cherry. Looks like a mini Cherokee Purple and more prolific for me than Sun Gold. Black Cherry is not an heirloom, but an open pollinated variety. You can save seed from it. It will grow true. For future reference, look at Sandhill Preservation, a family run seed catalogue in Iowa. They are on-line. Don't remember their exact url, but you won't have trouble finding it. Huge tomato section, including some very rare and interesting ones. Do not let anyone tell you we can't grow delicious tomatoes here. We can, but it takes some planning. You need to start your own seed. I start mine in February or March. But I have a mini greenhouse to put them in later in the spring, and not everyone does. Choose the sunniest spots in your garden for the plants. I have large trees around me, so I have to plant in the same places yearly. By all means experiment with walls of water, hoop houses, cloches, wrapping tomato cages with clear plastic, planting near walls or driveways or in pots and hanging baskets. All can be effective. And one of the most important ways to get a big and delicious tomato is to grow one that consistently grows big and delicious. I've traded for some terrific ones in the tomato seed exchange forum here on garden web. Neves Azorean Red grows huge and yummy tomatoes, but I don't think too many catalogues have it yet. This is the latest grower in my collection. Probably over 90 days from transplant. Even with my limited sunshine, my biggest tomato grew over 2 pounds. One that is easier to find and grows around a pound and more for me is Aker's West Virginia. And the stems are huge on this one. Very sturdy plant. You've already tried Cherokee Purple. I have grown it for years because of the taste. A really nifty book with excellent tomato info is Dr. Carolyn J. Male's, "100 Heirloom Tomatoes for the American Garden." She is also a valued contributor here on garden web, mostly in the tomato forum, but sometimes elsewhere. The book has terrific pictures and history of the tomato variety when known. Although I love and appreciate Territorial and Nichol's, I do not rely on them for interesting tomato varieties. I did buy the Beaverlodge Series and Orange King from Territorial this year, just to try them, but they don't have that many interesting tomatoes. That said, I love them for most other seeds and their excellent growers info. Tomato Growers is excellent and so is Baker Heirloom Seeds. I did not care for Siletz and I have not grown Willamette. Most folks in the northwest seem to be under the impression that we can't grow delicious tomatoes, but must grow only the boring earlies. Untrue! (Although it's a lot harder around Seattle and the Pudget sound area.) If I recall correctly, the Delta Farms folks retired. All the best to you for your 2006 garden. Mary

Chimney flashing is actually composed of step flashing (were the roof meets at an angle) and counter-flashing. The step flashing goes up the masonry and under the roof material, but above the drainage plane under the shingles (often roofing felt). Larger pieces than step flashing can be used if the line is not sloped relative to the roof deck. The counter flashing is cut into the masonry joints above the top of the stop flashing and extends down to about 1/2 inch above the roofing material. Simply gluing step flashing to masonry WILL produce leaks (if not immediately in a few years). Caulk and tar are not used to waterproof flashing, but as a temporary fix (at best) for failed flashing. The older way of securing the counter flashing was by driving lead into the groove in the masonry to wedge the flashing tight. There is Portland cement based 'caulk' available now that can be used to secure the counter flashing into its groove in the masonry.