For spec reasons, compatibility, matching the hood to the range maker is often recommended. I noted a lot use mesh too. I wonder if you may upgrade to baffles. If you can, it may cost less by means of aggravation in the end. That said, here are a few companies that I bookmarked: http://www.rangecraft.com/ http://www.prizerhoods.com/ http://wolf.com http://thermador.com

Mine, over 30" induction cooktop, is a 36" Kobe in the CH191 series. It has max 720CFM, although the long run and multiple turns in my duct means the effective CFM is less. I usually run it on the second lowest setting anyway. It's quiet and easy to clean, and the corners are curved so no one can impale his head by accident. Mine has halogen bulbs, but I understand that they come with LED now. I thought ventingdirect.com had pretty good prices, although others have found even better deals on other sites. I think I read that there is a more affordable Kobe-made hood sold at Costco. Maybe the Brilla? Marcia's right - it's better to have 36" hood over 30" stove. But if you aren't changing the cabs and you're replacing a 30" MW, I don't know that you can avoid having 30" hood. Not the end of the world. Still much better than OTR MW. There are more discussions of hoods over on the Appliances forum. Try googling "gardenweb hood recommendation" or something similar.

I think Kobe makes some models like that...

MUA requirements, based on the IRC, start with blowers rated over 400 CFM. Blower ratings are in free air, and not in a hood system, so such systems will have only 200 -- 300 CFM actual flow rate. If the aromatic cooking involves pan temperatures causing peanut oil to vaporize or smoke, then the flow rate into the hood should be 90 CFM/square foot of hood aperture, perhaps a bit less with induction cooking. So it might be apparent that your hood aperture can only meet the flow rate by being no larger than a few square feet. This will be inadequate to overlap the rising and expanding cooking plumes possible from all burners on most ranges and cooktops. And we haven't even addressed reliability yet, although this tends to be an issue with inexpensive hoods with pretensions to electronic grandeur, where simple controls would be fine. Note that there is always make-up air, and it exactly equals the amount of air that flows out of the hood system. Even without safety considerations, or code considerations, if you want to operate the hood system at its best performance level, natural MUA due to house leakage should be supplemented, even if it requires only a duct and damper into some part of the house, unless the house is extremely leaky or your environment allows for normally open windows.