Nematodes and Fortuniana
Artist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GA
2 years ago
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rifis (zone 6b-7a NJ)
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Is it me or is it hard to grow roses in Florida?
Comments (13)Susan, It can get discouraging at times but don't give up. I lost about 50 mature shrubs to the hurricanes about 6 years age. Then a year or so later, the remaining 120 bushes were demolished with Chili Thrips before I figured out what it was. But now I can recognize Chili Thrip damage and stop them before they get too far, and my rose garden of 150+ bushes is flourishing again. There are a couple of things that I have found in my 26 years of growing roses in FL that may be beneficial to you. 1. You probably know this but, start with roses on fortuniana rootstock. Some grow on their own roots but the best bet is fortuniana. FYI, I am going against my own advice and trying a few varieties own root lately. 2. Just because a rose is on fortuniana does not mean that it will thrive. Some roses simply do not like the heat and humidity even if they are on fortuniana while others thrive and continue to flourish through the summer. 3. While some varieties get established immediately and will be 7 feet at the end of the first year (like Brides Dream), other take a few years to get established and bloom quality and production improves with time (Pristine was this way for me). I give any rose on fortuniana three years 4. When first planted, water every day for a few weeks. Also, hold back on the high nitrogen fertilizer until the root system is established. On established plants, I use a combination of slow release organic and synthetic fertilizer once every 10-12 weeks. Sometimes if the established roses need a boost, I occasionally use a high quality liquid that I get special order from my local nursery. Once the roses are established, you can push the bloom cycle but not before. 5. For moderns, you have to spray every 2 weeks for fungus. I use Bayer Disease Control (not the combo product) 6. For established roses, water as needed (usually 2-3 time per week in the summer) and be sure to water beyond the drip line to encourage those shallow fortuniana roots to spread out. Some people swear by drip irrigation but I water from above in the early morning. 7. I only spray insecticides for Chili Thrips. Learn to recognize the damage and be prepared to spray for them if necessary. 8. Add organic matter and mulch if available. I am probably the only person left in my neighborhood who bags their grass because I like to let it dry out and spread around the roses. So in summary, water beyond the drip line in the morning, spray for fungus every two weeks and fertilize every 10-12 weeks. Growing roses in Fl can be very rewarding. We have a long growing season and no Japanese Beetles/ Roses that I have found which continue to bloom through the summer are Elina, Kentucky Derby, Brides Dream, Tournamnet of Roses, Belindas Dream, Heritage, Sunset Celebration, Pristine, Perfume Delight, Flo Nelson, Carefree Wonder, Iceberg, Moonstone, Midas Touch, Tropicanna. I'm sure there are others that I can't remember right now. Good......See MoreOwn root vs grafted
Comments (29)This is an interesting subject I have spend a lot of time and energy on, and I really like hearing others opinon :-) I wish some of the large rose producers would give us their knowlege or that someone does a large scale test of rootstocks in differnt locations that last at least 6 years. Kordes, Meilland and others must have lots of experience in this, not to mention nurseries in US. There are some old tests (1940's and 50's) that lasted 7 years or so, with field grown roses where the grafted roses did much better than any ownroot. For Europe north of the Alps three roses as rootstock came out better than others: Laxa, multiflora and a few canina varieties. Personally I have grown and observed alba roses like Minette, Maiden's Blush, Felicite Parmentier both as grafted plants and grown from rooted cuttings. In most cases all the grafed ones are larger even after something like 30-50 years (I have only planted roses the last 10 years). They say a grafed rose live on average something like 5 years, but some varieties really grow old as grafted plants. Maiden's Blush and Felicite Parmentier does not sucker much, if at all. Most likely it is the canina understock that is the root of these plants.These varieties are well worth growing ownroot and have vigour and resilience enough to stand on their ownfeet almost any where. In the rosarium in my town they grow a lot of rugosas, many of them really don't need any help from canina roots, or any other. Still they often are produced as grafted plants. I think it was Fru Dagmar Hastrup that was bought and planted on canina roots and did fine on them for a long time. Something like 6 years later they dug the plants up, sawed of the rootstock that still was the main root on all plants. This was done as an experiment and in hope that the plant would not grow as tall. They got the desired result, about 50 cm (just under two feet) shorter. The plants looked just as good on canina roots as ownroot. What I find interesting here it the fact that these rugosas do very well ownroot and really have no problem with the climate in any way. It seams that the understock gives the plant extra growth and energy. I have noticed this with climbers too, New Dawn, Blaze and a few climbing hybrid teas. They grow taller no doubt, and often look healthier and more resilient than ownroot plants. Floribundas and hybrid teas are even more dependent on streangth from the rootstock, and mostly there are no contest at all between ownroot and grafted. Pots seam to be the exeption and with extra care some grow into fine plants. I have read that multiflora does better in pots than other rootstocks. I have not had the chance to test this out, but multiflora does very well in pots. One of the arguments of those who produce ownroot roses is that grafted roses is less costly and done with less laber. This is not true. There was a time when grafting roses was considered both more expensive and more work, but the end result was found better. Another argument is that ownroot plants often look better in the garden and often will grow more shapely. This is not true either, I state this with observations from both the south of France and Northern Europe. A very long time ago grafting of roses was done with different techniques (in the time of Gertrude Jekyll). I don't know of any roses that is many with any other method than "oculation" (I don't know if this is the right term in English): Where a tiny T-shaped cut is made on the root-neck of the rootstock and an eye from the disired rose is slided under the fresh bark in the T-shaped cut. The root-stock is slightly pulled up from the soil, for the neck of the root to be exposed. This gives the plants by far much the same shape as a rose grown on its own roots. The budding point is not easily detected and the plants are not more leggy than ownroots. I dare state that there is no difference is shape even when grown right next to an ownroot rose of the same variety. After making such a rant about this, I have to mention that I happily rot cuttings of almost any rose :-)...See MoreCan nematodes be transferred to a pot?
Comments (7)If you dig the rose up and the roots do not have knots on them, then you should be ok. If you have knots on them you may need to cut them off. Once you go to put them in a new pot you will need to make sure that it has plenty of organic material in it. Nematodes hate the organic stuff. They prefer sand..... So when you originally planted the roses if you had put in lotss of good organics you may not have nematodes. Make sure when you have them in the pots that the pot does not touch the ground. It needs to be raised because the nematodes can travel from the ground to the pot which will defeat your purpose. On another note, I just posted that I am having a couple of my roses decline because I have this mat that is growing and choking out the roses. I really don't know what it is and haven't gotten any answers as of yet. Someone wanted me to post a picture, but I do not have a way to do that. I haven't seen anything like it before. It looks almost like roots but they are very very dense and not actually attached to any plant. I know that this mat thing was not there when I planted the rose there last fall. This mat thing is very aggressive. I think I am going to have to remove the bush in order to dig the mat out. Good Luck on your roses....See MoreDr. Huey rootstocks
Comments (8)Yes, it does not spread like "invasive" weeds or other plants, but here (Nor Calif, zone 9) at least, it DOES take over the scion roses routinely, without the scions being killed first by disease or harsh weather conditions. We don't HAVE harsh weather conditions. What kills the roses is the Dr. Huey rootstock taking over the plant, which is starts doing almost immediately. It requires constant vigilance around here to fight against that. Not worth it. I have dug out several modern roses in my garden just to get rid of the Dr. Huey rootstock. Ha! The scions were gone, but for years the Dr. Huey roots kept sending up new Dr. Huey roses. I think it just likes our climate a LOT, and it is so much more vigorous than the modern scions, they do not have a chance. Of course, it is possible to control it by constant maintenance, but I have better things to do. That is one of the main reasons I will never plant anything but own root roses in my garden. Jackie...See Moresharon2079
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoMischievous Magpie (CO 5b)
2 years agoArtist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GA
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2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoArtist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GA thanked BenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14)rosecanadian
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BenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14)