Akimbo, those 8" cabinets are awesome! I am currently looking into installing an IKEA tall cabinet into my hallway linen closet to make it look like a built-in. We did a custom wardrobe in our old house with IKEA cabinets that turned out great. I love that IKEA's cabinets are so easy to modify (even though they have done everything to discourage it). The 2nd and third photos are the Kitchen we were working on when I asked you about the upper cabinet depth/microwave issue. We ended up using a spacer behind the microwave.

In most production cabinets, the back is nothing more than to close the cabinet box. A hanging rail is what will support and hold the cabinet to the wall. Perfect example is of Joe's picture, where you see the solid wood at the back of the cabinet, that he's screwed to the plywood. That cabinet doesn't have a back, just a hanging rail, and it's obviously not going anywhere. Now, whenever I do an island, I always try to use at least a 1/2" plywood panel across the back of the cabinets, then a finish panel or wainscoting. I don't do a whole lot of frameless cabinets, but I do the same on them. This adds to the rigidity of the cabinet boxes, as well as giving the finish panel something to nail onto, anywhere I want to attach it. Plus, people won't put their foot through the panel. It also makes it easy to attach corbels. If you have the room, build a knee wall behind the cabinets. Now you can attach the cabinets to a wall. Then either drywall and paint, or use finish panels to cover the knee wall.

Hi we have just installed IKEA cabinets and are now faced with how to install the quartzite slab (not quartz which is man-made material but quartzite the natural stone). It’s a leathered black stone with few veins and we were told it appears hard by the fabricator. It‘s 2 cm thick and from Brazil. Our problem is we want no edging. We like the thin modern look of the natural 3/4” and do not want 1.5” required to hide plywood subtop. We have given thought to thin metal sheet support under all but the fabrication costs were almost as much as the stone and we’d have to be exact with the measurements. Now the fabricator is saying it may be fine just to lay on top of the cabinets with no typeof subtop. Where as before he was insisting we needed something. Our peninsula will be a 24” dishwasher, 36” sink cabinet (undermount), 36” cabinet with a waterfall down the edge and an 8” island overhang off the back (no support other than the waterfall at end and the wall next to the dishwasher as he plans to sink it into the wall. The stovetop wall has 24" cabinets on either side and will have stone going up the back too. Does anyone have experience with this? The cabinet installer currently has the flimsy bracket that came with the cabinets on it. I went to Ikea and bought the SEKTION reinforced ventilated top rail which are stronger but have that lip on them so I can't use them on the front of the drawer cabinets. Should I switch out the flimsy ones for these and perhaps add another support along the middle of the cabinet instead of just the ends? I think the flimsy ones may be OK because it is about weight distribution. My partner thinks different. I also bought the FIXA countertop support and realize if I use that, I can’t add an extra bar in the middle. Any advice on what to install where or anything else I should buy to help our situation. Any advice appreciated, Joseph Corlett you seem very knowledgable and experienced with IKEA cabinets and stone and would value your input too. We are torn between the look we want and not wanting this stone to break. We have no kids and are really careful with what we own

I hope it's ok to ask a related question here. I have seen Joseph's replies to other posts recommending the HUSH solution, but I don't know enough to be able to explain to my contractor why this can work. I, too, have a 24" IKEA Sektion cabinet and want to install the longest undermount sink possible. Based on what I've read about HUSH, I thought I could select a Kohler undermount with basin length = 22.25". But my contractor said that the flange is still 24" and asked if the flange sits on top of the cabinet and, if so, how that impacts the countertop. I'd be grateful if you can point me in the right direction Joseph! FYI, here is the sink: https://www.build.com/kohler-k-5286-kitchen-sink/s867441?uid=2217519#specifications