dmlove: I don't see your other thread. What is the exact title? Yes, we have the washer-left dryer-right setup. My exhaust vent is out the back wall. So I need to maintain approx 4" behind the dryer for the rigid aluminium duct to make a 90* turn at the dryer exhaust and at the wall vent. This required me to choose a dryer with no more than a total 30" depth, including the front door handle and anything sticking out of the back which would contact the duct. This requirement kept us from considering the Duet Sport dryer, or frankly any other FL washer dryer mates. I did consider modding the laundry nook so the doors where out farther, but it would have looked like a "hack". Since the washer/dryer are out of sight most of the time, we really did not mind going with a traditional, non-matching dryer which fit the nook depth. We got the Maytag MDE4608A which was half the price of the Duet Sport Dryer, but still had a 7.0 capacity, moisture sensor and drying rack. I did not see anything else in the sub $400 range with a moisture sensor and drying rack. I also liked the way the Maytag introduces heat from the back of the drum and pulls it out thru a front vent. Much like a GE in this regard. I would also note our dryer has the option of routing the exhaust vent out of either side instead of the back. As I understand your setup, you need to maintain 4" in the back of the dryer, and then raise it up so you can route the duct to the side wall vent. Correct?

Solid hardwood that you can refinish again and again and again for 60-100 years. Or you choose the product that comes the CLOSEST to your "ideal floor" and then live with the down-side of that choice. Many homeowners expect "indestructible" from materials that are easily marred. They are still perfectly functional. They just look less than ideal. It all comes down to homeowner expectations. And the concept of "wants vs. needs". I've seen clients expect indestructible, life-proof flooring (ie. what you would get with a stone floor) from cork flooring (the softest wood in the world of flooring). The cork was still doing it's job but the homeowner didn't like how it was behaving. In fact the cork was behaving like cork - no better no worse. But the homeowner's expectation was a floor that would be live like stone but feel like carpet. Totally unrealistic expectations for cork. That being said, the homeowner needs to figure out NEEDS (kitchens and baths NEED water proof flooring) versus wants (wanting a floor that is soft as carpet but water proof as well). There is no 'perfect' floor that gives everything to everyone. Figure out the NEEDS the floor must have (characteristics) and the figure out which categories of materials will GIVE YOU those needs. And then make the best of the options you have been given.

SJ McCarthy, our contract is stated we are responsible for the materials and we pay for the labor. Unfortunately we never met nor discuss with the owner but only discussed in details ( in the proposal) with the project manager who is the solely the carpenter.) We just found out there were a lot of the DETAILS from the proposal were not explained (per the PM,but who knows) in detail to the owner or almost like "bait and switch" - for example like item #2- he spent more time because the owner did not get him another helper to help him- I told him this should not be the customer's expenses-Anyway we are willing to pay for it. The owner was offering to renew and establish a new contract from the original contact ( we felt that he cherry picking the items from the proposal, we marked them up then again he decided not to included) for the unfinished works . Once he agreed in our 2nd meeting (another example: he agreed tiling our study room to be included from the original contact in our 1st meeting then when he write the REVISED CONTRACT- he wants to charge us ), but again we are facing the same old stories-he tried to change the wording. We were burned so many times and now we diligently review line by line knowing the owner's personality. He kept saying he lived by the contract-then I told him then he should honor the low estimated to install our engineering hardwood floor including removing the carpet-in the end he says he would honor but he did not including the cost in the new REVISED contract which we add into it - we are so tired with his games. So now we put a contingency - once we agree with the new contract, no more additional expenses from the previous work was done- and we do agree that we need to be notified first and need both signatures for additional expenses from the new contract. and no more point finger of "not included" since we have discussed in detailed and are in the contract. The new addition has a hardwood floor installed - with Dri-core. Once hardwood floor was installed- they are some areas squeak- we were told by PM -put a marked up then he would fasten without explaining to us-these would be additional ridiculous charges (PM told the owner, too-we told PM that they should explain it to us- ) Regarding the installing the engineering hardwood floor is for our existing rooms(concrete slabs that has plywood already)- we are told just to put a vapour barrier. Is it possible to let me know what brands for the glues have to be moisture resistant ($2/sf) or moisture PROOF ($3/sf).? The manufacture instruction suggests to use Franklin Tongue and Groove adhesive (cross linking polyaliphactic emulsion glue) www.titebond.com -any suggestions? This Applachian engineering hardwood floor - FLOATING only needs GLUE between the wood (tongue and groove per the manufacture manual ) then would be FLOAT - this is not to be GLUE DOWN on our concrete floor (could be glue down if necessary but not in our case). Here is the website- on PAGE 9 http://www.appalachianflooring.com/uploads/general/documents/engineered-installation-guide.pdf We trust the PM and we pay for it- we just want to move on and complete the project-It has been almost 10 months. We have to do what we have to do to protect ourselves now- The owner refuses to install our towel bar in our new shower without charging us, and we told him we will take care them by ourselves. I will update this post and hoping for a better solution. Thank you

I’ve looked at so many floors I’m burned out. I should’ve done a spreadsheet like the author of this post. I originally wanted Flooret’s Modin line but I’m just not liking the 9” planks.. right now Provenza Moda is my front runner because of the 7” wide plank texture and long boards (I do NOT want 48” planks). Does anyone know of a brand that I should be considering?? I want SPC, do NOT want a pronounced pained bevel (but do like a thin bevel). Prefer some texture, want low color variation in light-medium brown. (Did not care for SuperCore or Paradigm samples)