Solid hardwood that you can refinish again and again and again for 60-100 years. Or you choose the product that comes the CLOSEST to your "ideal floor" and then live with the down-side of that choice. Many homeowners expect "indestructible" from materials that are easily marred. They are still perfectly functional. They just look less than ideal. It all comes down to homeowner expectations. And the concept of "wants vs. needs". I've seen clients expect indestructible, life-proof flooring (ie. what you would get with a stone floor) from cork flooring (the softest wood in the world of flooring). The cork was still doing it's job but the homeowner didn't like how it was behaving. In fact the cork was behaving like cork - no better no worse. But the homeowner's expectation was a floor that would be live like stone but feel like carpet. Totally unrealistic expectations for cork. That being said, the homeowner needs to figure out NEEDS (kitchens and baths NEED water proof flooring) versus wants (wanting a floor that is soft as carpet but water proof as well). There is no 'perfect' floor that gives everything to everyone. Figure out the NEEDS the floor must have (characteristics) and the figure out which categories of materials will GIVE YOU those needs. And then make the best of the options you have been given.

ML, we are looking at Angle World/ Durato's V-Evo in the color called Bean Town. It is 12 mils. It's between that and Flooret's "base" in the color called Kingswood. Both are 12 mils. I have read in many reviews that anything more is overkill. I'm happy to see you have Angle World/Durato and you like it. Please let me know if it's the V-Evo or something different. (It's all very confusing with these names and sub-names and product lines being ever so different within the manufacturer. The more we look, the more confused we become.) Thank you!

leftontheinside We got our First Crush installed a few weeks ago, and there are saw marks. Some of our samples made them look very busy, and others didn't have them at all. We went through a local flooring store. The saw marks are definitely there, but not noticeable when looking at the floor as a whole (I looked at a lot of pictures because the saw marks were almost a deal breaker). We love the floors. They are beautiful! HU-751872317 We got a custom taupe stain made that coordinates well with the floor. If you still need something, I can get the formula.

I would love to see a lovely "white washed" oak looking vinyl in this space. The teal counter tops should be able to pull together the "wood" tones of the cabinets and the "soft grayish" tones of a white wash. Something like this is an example of what I'm thinking of: https://www.armstrongflooring.com/residential/en-ca/vinyl-flooring/luxury-vinyl-tile/luxe-plank-with-fastak-install/item/A6716.html If you can find the right vinyl plank, you should be able to get this to run throughout the space (including bathrooms, entrances and utility rooms). If you cannot find one that works nicely with the counters, I would suggest you leave the kitchen floor in place (it is the PERFECT match to the counters...you won't find anything better) and replace the carpets with a wood-toned vinyl. Now...just for fun, these homes are often built with "carpet" in mind. That means the subfloor (whatever it is...) if possibly the lowest of the low in terms of quality. That means it is often wavy or as far away from flat as you can get. Again, this is always the case...but it happens so often that you need to ASSUME there is a problem before you rip out the carpet. Once the carpet is gone, you will need to have the flatness and the subfloor SURFACE (the material that is sitting underneath the pad) assessed for vinyl. If you FLOAT the vinyl, then you only need to deal with "flatness". If you GLUE the vinyl then you have to deal with the type of MATERIAL as well. And that's where the headaches begin. Many times there is fibre board or luan sitting under carpet in a trailer (regardless of how well built it is). Both of these materials are "OK" underneath a floating floor, but they often have to come out if you want to glue down. And then the "flatness" has to be dealt with. Vinyl HATES wonky subfloors. And I mean HATES it. The subfloor has to be SMOOTH (vinyl telegraphs things like staples, staple holes, seams, etc. to the surface). And to get fibre board or luan smooth is a nightmare. They don't like "patch" material. Again, this could mean they need to come out and be replaced with something that can handle patch, etc. Please be prepared for some ++prep costs to deal with whatever is underneath that carpet. Whomsoever is doing the work for you will need to WALK INTO your home and pull back the carpet BEFORE they offer a quote. And the quote should include a range for the prep. It should look like $1-$4/sf for subfloor preparation (the range will depend on where you are and how expensive it is to hire local labour).