power -- switch -- wire to light power -- switch -- wire to other switch This is what he said he had doesn't mater what he said about the rest any electrician that knows what he is doing can easily make the 3-way work with these wires. Obviously your not an electrician joefixit. He does have the light and power in one box but there is also power in the other box. The only reason you need to use a 3 wire is to send the neutral to the other switch so it can send it to the light. Well he has a neutral at the switch with the light according to what he said above. So if you tie the neutral through to the light cap off the hot on that side and don't use it you now have the neutral you need at the light. Land the black wire coming from the light to the black screw on the switch that is the common for that switch. Now according to what he said there is a wire running between the switches, so there should be a black and white in that wire, those are the travelers you now have your neutral, travelers, and common over at the switch going to the light. On the other side you have the power and the wire to the other switch so now you cap off the neutral cause you don't need it now cause there is one already going to the light after you do what I said earlier, the black hot wire is your common and it goes to the black common screw on the switch now there will be two wires left, according to what he said they are going in between the two switches so the black and white that are left are your two travelers. If your so sure this is wrong tell me how, because there is now way possible to make this not work unless the wire he said that were there arnt actually there I'm just going off the info given

Cleo, you done good. A properly wired 3-way switch allows the light to be turned on/off on one end and on/ from the other. All 3-way switches have three wires, one being the hot and the other two are called travelers. There are usually two black wires and one red wire. The two travelers, red and black come from the same romex and the hot lead comes from another. The hot lead is attached to the bronze screw and the two travelers to the other two screws, one on each side. Doesn't matter which traveler goes where. Tell your freaking out girlfriends to find something else to worry about you done good.

OH man!!! I knew that 12/2 traveler seemed odd. I should have gone with my first instinct!! That is how I originally had it roughed in then found that posting and changed it all today..all for it not to work!!! ugh!! I have wired 3 ways before but I'm getting confused with the fan/light feature. Also, I think what is confusing me is that the way I originally had it, and the way you are stating, box 1 with the feed is "in between" the fixture and the other box. Does that make sense? I know that might not be accurate but that is how my brain sees it. Meaning, box 2 has the 2 runs of 14/3 coming over to box 1 which has the feed and then the run to the light. So let me try to figure this out and correct me again if I am wrong. The rough should be: Box 1: 14 or 12/2 feed; 2 runs of 14/3 to box 2 and a run of 14/3 to the fixture. Then from there I am reading your instructions but having difficulty picturing it..not sure if it's fatigue and late but..is there any way you could diagram it for me? maybe in an email or something....i'm dying over here to finish this up. thanks, brian

Do the lights still work with the other switch or will neither switch work? If the 120V on the travelers alternates with the switch position, that switch is operating correctly (disregard the 30-35V... it's not really there). How does the other switch check out? Easiest trial is to replace both switches, making sure to reconnect the wires exactly as they were on the old switches. Recessed lights can be removed to access the wiring. If they are new work cans, the can itself will be held in place by screws. If remodel cans, clips hold it in place and can be released to remove the entire fixture.