You will have to move the insert out to flush with the veneer brick face. Full brick is nominal 4" wide and if being installed all the way to ceiling there are ramifications. Use thin brick instead, and avoid the weight and detailing issues with the mantel. I am very surprised in this day and age you are choosing brick look instead of cultured stone.

Edit: Somehow missed the verbage below the picture. I don't understand thin brick making the mantel "floating." You mean because it doesn't extend to the sides of the bumpout?

IMO brick is a better choice than fake stone but I do agree that the brick shoulf be thin but I really do not understand the rest of the question Maybe a sketch of what the installer is explaining I really don't understand the 5" issue or the spacing from the wall . This is agas FP not wood burning so a lot of the issues should be avoided. I do agree that you will need to pull the fire box forward to allow the brick to be installed properly. What is the rason for the brick at all?

I would remove the mantle and use brick veneer, not full sized bricks, to “tile” the facade and sides of your fireplace….if that is what you want to do. Then, I would create a new mantle that better suits your needs.

Don't want a "floating mantel" which basically doesn't rest on top of the fireplace but attaches to the wall. This is the look we're going for (with a glass-front firebox) but with the brick only as wide as the bottom of the mantle is wide, and about 3 inches of drywall on either side. Very much like one but with just a few more inches of wooden mantel below the mantel shelf.

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Here's how your fireplace might look using your inspiration photo. Whether or not you have a mortar joint under the mantel won't matter so long as the bricks don't go beyond the width of the main mantel body. In other words, the bottom edge molding of the mantel should be wider than the brick, otherwise it will look like an afterthought.

Shown with: Custom Made EC-08FS Nouveau Fireplace Screen

@3onthetree, thanks for the info, I really do appreciate you taking the time to comment and advise. Do you think it'll be okay to not have any brick on the floor? The firebox itself will be approximately 11" above the wood floor, the fireplace is sealed so no hazard, etc. Wondering about the look. Hmm...

I'm heading out right now but will holler back at you later tonight with as much detail as I can. Thanks again!!

My opinion is a traditionally-designed style brick surround sitting on a wood floor would look strange. Nothing says a hearth extension has to be brick though, it can be a thin slab of granite, soap stone, whatever.

I see a concrete slab, so engineered wood flooring? Check your manual for the fireplace. It will state the exact clearances required above a non-combustible floor (as well as around the perimeter for air vents, a mantel, or anything). Verify those distances to your plans. Also, your flooring will have thickness. With a hearth extension you want it either flush or above a specific distance based on what material it is.

Yes, engineered wood and the 11” or so above floor is acceptable. Like the picture above without the fire screen.

So here it is. Brick’s about 4” thick or out from the drywall. Went with simple - didn’t have enough confidence in the mason’s abilities.

It looks good. I was going to suggest a thin brick veneer that could be applied directly to the gyp. board but I'm a little late for that.

Thanks, it really looks OK with the 4 inches or 4 1/2 inches of brick. Actually, looks like an old built-in fireplace. Appreciate it