Hi - I just spent a couple hours researching how to do the very same thing! You need to use Metal furring strips, not the wooden ones. I think we'll attach them with Liquid Nails and screw on 1/2" cement backer board. I can hardly wait to do this project - our brick juts out from the sides about 3 or 4" (so it looks like a 3 sided box with a seat attached to the wall) and I just hate it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Metal Furring

Ladynimue, it appears that we think alike! Are you planning to use metal U-channel for the furring strips or have you found something else to use? I'm not sure how to attach backer board to U-channel.

Thanks!

Thinking alike for sure! Do you happen to know if cement backer board meets fire codes? I seem to remember there being a special fire resistant drywall for garage walls, but maybe it's insulation I'm thinking of.

We're still in the research and planning stage. Work will begin early September when dh has some time off. Not sure if we're talking about the same thing but the metal furring strips I looked at do look like a U and I believe are also called Furring Channels. Probably same things?

[URL=http://www.radiantbarrier.com/basement.htm]This site[/URL] talks about installing a basement or masonry wall insluator - but the revelant part states to use either a adhesvie caulk or nails to attach the furring to the masonry. Other websites I saw mentioned using Liquid Nails - sounds a whole lot easier than driving a nail into brick!

It doesn't seem that difficult of a project once you break it down. Glue the strips; Measure, Cut & Screw on the backer board (guess we'll need to remember the distance of furring strips...and drywall screws long enough to go throug furring but not brick). Tape, Mud, Sand. Finish work (the fun stuff imho).

It'll probably only be 10x as hard and 100x as many hours as I hope for ;) And my dh is *still* considering knocking out all the brick - I'd love to get rid of the jutting sides but not sure about all that heavy work.

Have you dry-walled before? We did a basement in our old home a few years back.

Here is a link that might be useful: Picture of Metal Furring Channel

Ladynimue, thanks for all the information! I was thinking of a heavier gauge channel that wouldn't be as suitable as what you bookmarked.

I believe that cement backer board does meet the 'non-combustible' intent of the code, since the only problem with drywall is the paper backing, although I've bookmarked an article that suggests that maybe drywall is OK for fireplaces after all. The drywall you're thinking of for garages is just thicker (5/8") and holds off a fire longer than the regular 1/2" stuff.

Although I've done drywall before, I won't be doing this since it's part of a much larger project that includes replacing most of the drywall in the house.

Thanks again!

Here is a link that might be useful: combustible drywall?

you should be able to find fire rated sheetrock (drywall) to use in this application. check with your local building materials supply house.

If you look hard enough on the Hardibacker site (a brand of cementitious backer board) you'll find that its listed as "noncombustable", so it can be used around the firebox.

I haven't run across any "fireproof" drywall - even GP's DensArmor, which is paperless, is rated "fire resistant". I think when you are finding listings of drywall used in garages, you will find that they are talking 5/8" panels, which when used in a wall assembly will give you a 2 hour fire rating, instead of the 1 hour that 1/2" panels will give you. If anyone knows of a

That being said, there is at least one drawing in the IRC that shows drywall abutting the masonry fireplace, and if you read the requirements for noncombustible material used in a fireplace, I think you'll conclude that the use of drywall above the mantel is OK. After all, if we are allowed by the IRC to install a combustible wood mantel on the fireplace beyond the specified clearance area around the firebox opening, then one would expect that we can use a fire resistive material above that.

If you are concerned about it, but all means furr it out with metal channel, and/or use the glass-mat drywall panels like DensArmor, but I think in all cases your local building office will approve the work.

At least, mine did. YMMV - when in doubt, talk to your building official.

Reinhardt
quelle@homebedazzle.com

I see you are probably set on what you are going to do but I will explain the 2" ruling for you. The 2" clearance from combustables when used with a zero clearance fireplace is measured from the outer wall of the double wall chimney pipe to the nearest combustable material ie. studs, header, or insulation bats. One recomendation I will make DO NOT use liquid nail in its cured form it readily burns.Fire rated sheet rock does not meet "non Combustable" approval to do this you must use a product such as Hardibacker or Dura rock both are a cement based board used as a tile or man made rock backer. If these two fireplaces are zero clearance fireplaces you may be able to use regular sheet rock nailed straight to the studs but if they are masonry the easiest thing would be to strip off the face brick layer (outter layer of brick) and attach furring strips or even metal 2x4 studs using tapcon concrete screws and then course thread drywall screws to attatch the durarock or hardibacker. hopefully this doesnt throw a monkey wrench at you too much

rick fireplace guy, my fireplace is masonry, not zero-clearance. Are you saying that wood furring strips attached directly to the masonry chimney are OK, as long as a cement-based board is used instead of drywall?

Thanks.

No I was just giving some info I would advise metal furing strips OR a metal 2x4 stud OR if you are going to use a concret backer board you could attach that directly to the masonry surface using tapcon screws.

A gain a lot of miss conceptions here Rick got is right sheet rock paper facing is considered combustiable 5/8" fire code sheet rock is used in garages to contain the spread of fire for (one hour two hour protection require 2 layers of 5/8 sheetrock. Metal s u channell is non combustiable but metal transferes heat far more readilly than wood you may or may not be able to remove that brick facing that facing slso could, used as part of the 4" solid masonry provided protection of tour flue linersm It could also be thejust a facing wher brick or sloid blocks are underneath too hard to tell from here. Also I might add it is not a good practice to attach anything to a masonry chimney The forum is a great place to get ideas but the person that has jurisdiction and can approve what you are about to do is your local building inspector. He is the guy you should be saking questions about fire safety and clearance issues. I would be hard pressed to recomend any construction adheisive that has any petro bases indredients in its composition when heat of fire could come into play