Please help! Refrigerator placement????
How close can I come to the moulding with the fridge slide panel? There are 14 inches between the cabinet and the moulding. The light switch can be made smaller by two inches. Of course, the phone will be gone.
We are doing a total kitchen reno.
Appreciate your help!
Comments (13)
MinnesotaMary
2 years agoCan you move the electrical into the side of the fridge wall? That's what I did in our kitchen. See black circles. Then you could move the wall up to the trim.
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Help with refrigerator placement and panel!
Comments (6)I had an almost identical situation to yours, but for different reasons. I have a 30" deep wall that surrounds my chimney in the living room so my fridge wall had to be 30" deep. I went with 30" deep base cabs and 24" uppers to the right of the fridge. I also had them make my over the fridge cabinet 30" deep. This may seem crazy--BUT I love the depth. I have my giant occasional use things shoved back there--mainly seasonal stuff that gets rotated. Right now its full of all the summer picnic items, outdoor wire chafing frames all that stuff...But if you don't want a 30" deep cabinet I would definitely have them pull the 24" forward and get a 30" deep panel. You'll have a much easier time opening that upper and the fridge will look more built in if they bring it forward. I have a 30" panel to the right of my fridge, and on the other side I actually put a bookcase facing the other room, but also the full depth. Here are some pics....See MoreWalnut cabinets are in -- need help with pull placement, please
Comments (20)I like the horizontal pulls too, centered vertically on drawers, 3" from the top/bottoms to line up with your top drawer pulls. Another option: we're going with Berenson finger pulls. They're not beefy, but GREAT minimalist pulls. [[(https://www.houzz.com/products/modern-kitchen-prvw-vr~1620949) [Modern Pulls design[(https://www.houzz.com/products/modern-cabinet-and-drawer-pulls-prbr1-br~t_689~s_2105) by Salt Lake City Windows And Doors Direct Door Hardware...See MoreIsland-help tweak outlet and MW placement please?
Comments (3)I'm not sure that it matters. One thing I do notice is that if you put it in the cabinet by the fridge, on that side you already have oven door opening and the trash-pullout opening and now in that same area you will now have the microwave drawer opening. If it is across from the sink it is the only thing you will have opening into the space. Just as something to think about - don't know if it will work for you or not - but have you thought about turning the MW drawer so that it opens towards the fridge? Not suggesting it just throwing it out there. What is your MW used for and how often? Regards your plugs - your MW will need an internal electrical connection and so it might be logical to put the outside plug in the same place. That's how mine is set up....See Moreplease help with MW placement & floorplan in general!
Comments (5)Microwave Placement: How about expanding the row of cabinets (pantry cabinets?) on the chimney side to 18" deep and putting the MW in one of the cabinets in that run? If necessary, the refrigerator could be moved to the left another couple of inches. If the majority of your MWing is reheating, then putting the MW near the refrigerator and the pantry makes the most sense anyway. Note: I just looked at several GE Spacemaker MWs and they all said you need a 30" cabinet. (I looked at JVM1850SH, JVM1440LK, JVM1650SH, plus a few others) Other Comments: What are the cabinets on the far right wall? Pantry? Dish hutches? Combination? Where are you keeping your "utility" items (broom, mop, etc.)? Sink/Prep Sink: How do you feel about a prep sink on the island? Right now, the work flow is not ideal. Work moves from the refrigerator/pantry to the sink and prep space to the cooking area. Your current work flow has you crossing the entire length of the kitchen to get to the sink. If you plan to prep on the island, you then backtrack to the island; if you plan to prep b/w the range and the sink then that step is fine. Note, however, that prepping on the perimeter counter b/w the sink and range potentially overlaps the cleanup area. If someone is cleaning up while you're prepping you may be bumping elbows (or butts!). If you prep on the island, all zones are separate and there is no "elbow or butt bumping!" If you have a prep sink, you only have to walk across a portion of the kitchen (exact amount depends on where you put the prep sink) and the range is immediately behind you. Refrigerator: Ideally, the refrigerator should be closer into the kitchen work area, but on the outskirts so that people coming in from the rest of the house for a snack do not interfere with prep/cook/cleanup. However, it appears you're going for a "look" on the range wall, so moving the refrigerator over to that wall won't work. The sink wall, with the DW and trash, doesn't have enough room for the refrigerator, so it cannot go there. Moving the DW to the left of the sink would put it in the way of the range's oven door and loading/unloading the DW could interfere with cooking on the range. Range Hood: It's strongly recommended that your vent hood be at least 6" wider than your range/cooktop. With a 30" range, you should have a minimum of a 36" vent hood. You have the space for it and it would only take 3" off of the upper cabinets on each side of the vent hood. FWIW, I agree with your cabinet maker about detracting from the range...if you are you getting a particularly attractive/striking range. Aisles: Your 39" clearance b/w the sink/DW and the island is a little tight. While it will work, I would feel more comfortable with another 3 to 6 inches (42 to 45 inches) HTH!...See More
Cheryl BKaun
2 years agoMinnesotaMary
2 years ago@Cheryl BKaun, I have a paneled end there that runs right to the trim. You can see it in the photo below. It was created to bury a support post so it is wider than a side fridge panel - a bit more than 4 inches. My fridge side panels are 1 3/4 inches and the shallowest electrical box is 1.5 inches so depending on how your panels are built, you could ask your contractor to incorporate a box there.
What are the switches for? Another solution would be to move them to the right of the fridge. Then you could move the fridge panel to the trim saving you 14 inches. They will be opening the wall anyway for your other electrical so it would not be a big deal to move the switches.
Cheryl BKaun
2 years ago@MinnesotaMary So the triple switch is two outdoor lights over the deck and the fixture over our dining table. Moving the switch to the right of the fridge might be a great solution. Other than that, the left fridge panel can be 2 inches from the switchplate. With that nudge over, a 33 inch sink basin instead of 36 plus 3 inches of former dead space, I will squeeze a 9-inch cabinet to the right of the fridge. Our cabinet designer has tried to talk me out of nudging the fridge over because she thinks it's too close to the sliders. BTW-- from the left fo the sliders to the wood top is 10 inches. Once the panel is up on the right side of the sliders, we'll have 8.5 inches to the trim. That 1.5 inch difference won't be noticeable at all--at least I hope so!
Thanks again!! I will keep you posted.
MinnesotaMary
2 years agoCheryl BKaun
2 years agoMinnesotaMary
2 years agoCheryl BKaun
4 months ago@minnesotamary Hello and Happy Holidays! You were such a help and an inspiration when we renovated our kitchen! I wanted to share some photos of the finished work at the Christmas.
Thanks again for generously sharing your incredible renovation.
MinnesotaMary
4 months agoCheryl BKaun
4 months agoMinnesotaMary
4 months ago
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