We did an install of BR-111 tigerwood in a below-grade concrete slab basement! That particular brand was the only one that was even possible for below grade. We had to level the slab with SLC, then roll on the specific polyurethane rubber sealant/waterproofer, then lay the flooring with the co-ordinating adhesive. It was a never-again (until the next time) kind of job. Just an real awful experience with all the steps and compounds with their vapors and sticky cleanups. But after 3 years it has held up with no issues at all. Fast forward, and the same homeowners have asked to do the other basement space across the hall, so here we go again. Casey

thank you for your repl, worthy! From my research online, I do see people using self-leveling cement to patch floors. I called a few hardwood floor installers but no one seemed to want to do the "ground" work... any other recommendations? I'd rather hire someone than attempt to do this myself...

SJ McCarthy, our contract is stated we are responsible for the materials and we pay for the labor. Unfortunately we never met nor discuss with the owner but only discussed in details ( in the proposal) with the project manager who is the solely the carpenter.) We just found out there were a lot of the DETAILS from the proposal were not explained (per the PM,but who knows) in detail to the owner or almost like "bait and switch" - for example like item #2- he spent more time because the owner did not get him another helper to help him- I told him this should not be the customer's expenses-Anyway we are willing to pay for it. The owner was offering to renew and establish a new contract from the original contact ( we felt that he cherry picking the items from the proposal, we marked them up then again he decided not to included) for the unfinished works . Once he agreed in our 2nd meeting (another example: he agreed tiling our study room to be included from the original contact in our 1st meeting then when he write the REVISED CONTRACT- he wants to charge us ), but again we are facing the same old stories-he tried to change the wording. We were burned so many times and now we diligently review line by line knowing the owner's personality. He kept saying he lived by the contract-then I told him then he should honor the low estimated to install our engineering hardwood floor including removing the carpet-in the end he says he would honor but he did not including the cost in the new REVISED contract which we add into it - we are so tired with his games. So now we put a contingency - once we agree with the new contract, no more additional expenses from the previous work was done- and we do agree that we need to be notified first and need both signatures for additional expenses from the new contract. and no more point finger of "not included" since we have discussed in detailed and are in the contract. The new addition has a hardwood floor installed - with Dri-core. Once hardwood floor was installed- they are some areas squeak- we were told by PM -put a marked up then he would fasten without explaining to us-these would be additional ridiculous charges (PM told the owner, too-we told PM that they should explain it to us- ) Regarding the installing the engineering hardwood floor is for our existing rooms(concrete slabs that has plywood already)- we are told just to put a vapour barrier. Is it possible to let me know what brands for the glues have to be moisture resistant ($2/sf) or moisture PROOF ($3/sf).? The manufacture instruction suggests to use Franklin Tongue and Groove adhesive (cross linking polyaliphactic emulsion glue) www.titebond.com -any suggestions? This Applachian engineering hardwood floor - FLOATING only needs GLUE between the wood (tongue and groove per the manufacture manual ) then would be FLOAT - this is not to be GLUE DOWN on our concrete floor (could be glue down if necessary but not in our case). Here is the website- on PAGE 9 http://www.appalachianflooring.com/uploads/general/documents/engineered-installation-guide.pdf We trust the PM and we pay for it- we just want to move on and complete the project-It has been almost 10 months. We have to do what we have to do to protect ourselves now- The owner refuses to install our towel bar in our new shower without charging us, and we told him we will take care them by ourselves. I will update this post and hoping for a better solution. Thank you

I have a work around. Remove the maple flooring. Fix the plywood underneath (get it smooth and free of glue, etc). Do a little bit of self leveling to fill the seams and knots. Purchase 4mm or 6mm cork glue down tiles and the glue and the finish (if needed). Now you glue down the cork over the plywood. The cork tiles (100% cork...no fibre board) are flexible enough to handle a hump like this. Cork acts like carpet without being dirty like carpet. it is also a great work out floor because it is quiet and absorbs both noise AND impacts. Check these guys out...they will have what you want. Be careful with shipping liquids in the winter = product denatures and is useless/waste of money for the glue and polyurethane. I would personally leave this project for the spring...or if you are in the Southern USA you can get the liquids shipped directly from the factory or a local distributer. www.icorkfloor.com Anne will help you with whatever you need.