"Toe-tappers" are losers. I have two of them at different locations and they're a dysfunctional nuisance. Can't count the number of times I've bumped them open unintentionally thereby disturbing an otherwise relaxing bath. Several of my guests, not being familiar with the arrangement, emptied 1/2 the tub before they figured out what was happening. Get something easy to understand and easy to use for everybody.

No doubt your jurisdiction is like mine, where they primarily use PVC for nearly all DWV installations therefore the amount of ABS fittings normally stocked by your local suppliers is rather limited however there are jurisdictions that require ABS for all DWV applications. While you may not be able to find the style you want in ABS at your local supplier rest assured that it is available by special order. On the other hand, The size of the drain and oveflow openings in the tub are made to an industry standard and even though you may not be able to find a Kholer Kit to your liking in ABS, rest assured that kits from other manufacturers will work just as well. From your description your waste overflow will ultimately be in a "concealed location" therefore you are required by code to use both a "glue in type waste & overflow" and a "glue-in type P-trap". A "Glue-in type Waste & Overflow Kit" primarily has three separate parts, the "Overflow Body", The "Tub Shoe" and a "Baffled Tee". The "Overflow body" is simply the plastic housing the fits over the outside of the overflow hole, along with a mounting gasket and the metal trim cover which fits on the finished side of the tub and the two mounting screws which hold the trim cover in place. The "Tub Shoe" is primarily the plastic housing that fits directly under the drain opening. The drain shoe will be complete with a rubber gasket to fit between the tub shoe and the underside of the tub, and a metal "Tub drain Basket", which is passed through the tub drain hole from above and screwed into the Tub shoe. The kit will also contain the required Tee to connect the drain line to the overflow riser. Some kits provide the pipe necessary to connect the Tub shoe to the Tee, as well as another piece of pipe to connect the overflow body to the tee, while other kits omit the pipe and we simply use pieces of stock sched.40 DWV pipe. The kit will also contain the tub stopper. If you select a lever lift type waste & overflow kit the overflow cover will have the required lever and your kit will contain the lift rod and stopper that is inserted down through the overflow pipe. If you select a "lift and turn" or "toe tap" stopper the stopper will be screwed into a threaded hole in the center of the cross in the tub drain basket. If you would like a couple illustrations showing a comparison of the glue-in type waste & oveflow as compared to a conventionsl slip joint type waste and overflow send me an email and I will be glad to send you one. (perhaps if someone has mastered the art of posting illustrations on this forum they might obtain my illustrations and post them). In most cases you can find a generic Waste & overlow kit with the same metal trim color and type of stopper that you desire and once its installed no one will be the wiser. Not to mention that it will probably save you considerable money.

Thank you all for your valuable input. This morning I used a Rotozip to cut out a drywall spot that's a little larger than my thumb. Oddly enough, there's insulation in there. (I guess to block the sounds from the other side of our ZLL home.) Upon moving the insulation aside with my finger, I could see a bizarre shape for black PVC. A little more poking revealed that this is the one of those "directional T's" that throws water in the correct direction of flow. The "T" is mounted horizontally so it forms a "T" when looked at from below. If the previous owner had moved the hook 1cm away from the wall or cabinet, no damage would have been done. Bah!!! Instead, the hook penetrated right where the junction of the "T" is curved from one side. My head is going to rotate. I'll try a combination of the points mentioned above. Roughing up the edges before using any kind of primer or cement to give it something to adhere to, possibly shoving a plastic screw with cement in the hole once I get it to the proper size, etc. If this had happened on an ordinary section of straight pipe, it wouldn't be so bad. But this had to be in the narrow armpit of the "T". Too bad I through away the hook that used to be in there. ;-)

We have a TubShroom in stainless in the tub and it blends in pretty well and is easy to clean. https://amzn.to/3jGWb2Q