Questions regarding that, is newspaper okay for bedding or is corrugated cardboard that much better? Is colored ink newsprint okay nowadays? As for establishing a stable population, I figure I won't be pulling any out for bait until June, so they have four months "to get it on!" I just wish it was a little warmer. [quote=Wormee]For me.. I've been using 3x 10 gal roughneck Rubbermaid tubs that each seem to have filled out to approx 2.5 - 3lbs of worms each.. (approx 2000 euros).[/quote] Just checking, do you mean 2000 per tub or combined 2000 in ~ 8 lb? I ask because I'm trying to figure how much container volume or area I need at this point... My current starting population is somewhere between 7-9 lb of worms. For now, they are split among three of the 18 gallon bins and one long bin, call it 42 gallons. I either need to get more bins or make a big FT. I'm still thinking a big insulated one like a vb48, but it could well be that regular box/bins are better suited for my use. If that is the case, I'll need to make some racks. Currently they seem fine in horse manure and leaves with moist shredded newspaper and cardboard on the bottom and top, lids off, light on. It's 52F down there. The problem with the 7-9 lb of worms is I'm not certain they are all euros. That has to do with the way I procured them. I had ordered 5 lb euros from one place and received at most 3 lb of either spindly euros or wigglers plus a whole lot of peat moss in a green bag from a different company. I tried to contact the company I web-ordered from, and received no response. It seemed very fishy. After contacting my CC company about this, I got in touch with the company on the bag that shipped the worms. They offered to re-ship the order. This second batch of worms, also in a green bag, were from a different shipping location, and contained substantially larger individuals with a lot less peat moss filler in the green bag. Probably a little over 4 lb of actual lively meat. After this hassle, I have more worms than I thought I would have to start out with, so will need more space and food. And I'll probably keep the two groups separate at least for a while. I may even run a number of single pair pots to confirm if they are...um compatible, lol.

I have used a couple tubs with the toe-tapper valves and really liked them. My mother-in-law also has one in her tub. She likes it but seems to have trouble with it clogging with hair.

Thanks Gladys1924--always good to know first hand info-- I have looked for over two hours today trying to find a tub to fit where the shower is now but even if we give up the linen closet on that wall to gain more space (and maybe not be able to place it elsewhere) I don't think it is doable... Can someone recommend a website that explains the difficulties in relocating a drain for tub or toilet or shower that is in a concrete foundation? Or can anyone give an idea of the cost to do something like that--- might be worth 1K to really get an improved layout and use less expensive materials... I posted this question about giving up a tub and only having a shower in master bath on local website in my FL area and everyone that responded (many RE agents and flippers) were in favor of giving up the tub for nice shower... so I don't know that it would hurt resale value at all...

While it looks like there is a variety of successful approaches, I think the reason some have success with one approach and others don't is the nature of the stains. Some stains are simple body oils stuck in the texture of the nonslip pads. Using something alkaline like shampoo should work for those to soften the stains and allow them to be scrubbed lightly. WD-40 should also dissolve those and lift them. Other stains are based on hard water build up of calcium. The calcium can't be seen because it is white but the calcium will catch and hold the body oils. If you cannot get the calcium off, the stains remain. This is where an acidic approach would work. Barkeeper's Friend is oxalic acid with a mild abrasive. If the stains are calcium based, this should wash them away very easily. I would like to suggest another approach to the plain body oils with no calcium build up. There is a cleaner used in the automotive detailing industry called Super Clean. It comes in a purple spray bottle at auto stores, hardware stores, Walmart, etc. It is basically 409 on steroids. If you have trouble breathing when using 409, then you will really have trouble breathing around Super Clean. I bought some for my car and, of course, it works great. Then I read the label and decided to try it in the kitchen. The first thing I tried it on was burned on grease on a stainless pan - the bottom of the pan. I sprayed it on and let it sit for a "dwell time" of 10 minutes. Then I ran hot water from the faucet into the pan and 99% of it just rinsed clean with no scrubbing. I thought maybe I had a pan with grease that looked burned on but was just sort of already softened, but no. I tried it again and again with the same results. So that is my experience with Super Clean. I thought someone might give it a try on their tub texture spots and report back here with results.