Covering up tiled floor which has radiant floor heating
Darsh Patel
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Patricia Colwell Consulting
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoElmer J Fudd
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Flooring options for radiant floor heating
Comments (2)Your HVAC expert who is designing the system should explain the requirements that the manufacturer has for their particular system. In general, in your situation, you will need lower temperature loops closer together rather than the traditional higher temperature loops further apart. The whole system has to be designed for the water temperature that you will need, as well as the PEX placement distance. Floor coverings also has to be taken into account in the plan. Rubber and carpet actually have insulative power (R values), and are not conductive to easily passing the heat through into the home. That has to be calculated when designing the system, and it will increase the lag time to temperature changes, which is already radiant's biggest drawback....See MoreWhat floor covering do you have over your radiant heat?
Comments (8)We used an epoxy paint with the paint flecks so as to resemble terrazzo over our radiant heated shop floor that we put in. Ourselves. Embedded in the slab. We wanted the best transfer of heat possible for a building containing tonnages of steel machines and automobiles. Do research thermal lag. It's one big drawback. One thing that the engineer obsessor other half researched to death was that the floor covering materials and home layout will determine the loop spacing, length, and how many zones you will need. A system designed for wood will need to have a different temperature than one for concrete or tile, which are more efficient at radiating the heat. There isn't a one size fits all solution. But be SURE that your system designer and your engineered wood floor manufacturer are in synch with the requirements....See MoreLuxury vinyl to put over tile (with radiant floor heat)
Comments (16)OK...if you REALLY want to go over this, you are about to spend more money that it would cost to remove the tile: #1: Flooring professional will THOROUGHLY clean the tile (with big machine and strong detergents); and allow to dry (1 day or more if you include the dry time) #2: Flooring professional will rough up the tile (big sanding machine - tapping off all cupboards, air vents, walls, etc) - clean up (shop vac) will take another or two #3: Cement topping (like feather compound) will be added to the floor to ensure you achieve "flat and level" (grout lines are NOT flat; tiles/stone are NEVER flat nor level); should take a few days including cure times #4: Light sanding to knock down any pumps; vacuum once again #5: Begin installing vinyl planks #6: Homeowner will add appropriate light-blocking products on windows that allow direct sunlight onto the floor (you are welcome to put down an indoor/outdoor thermometer in the sunny patch to record TOP temps in summer. Most vinyls HATE heat above 85F. That is tough combat with windows that are older than 10 years. The Korean-designed vinyl products can reach much higher temps (EZ Lay or Drop N Done) and are specifically designed for in-floor radiant heat. Of course their price tag reflects their ability...but it's what is needed in this situation. Which type of in-floor radiant heat do you have? Electric (wires), hydronic (water/gel/oil) of forced air? Do you have a primary heat source or is the radiant heat the ONLY source of heat in your home?...See MoreTile or engineered wood for flooring with radiant heating?
Comments (3)Which type of radiant are you looking at? With a new build I would hope you are looking at hydronic...but I don't want to assume. Make sure the slab is insulated BELOW the heating system because it gets expensive to heat the earth underneath the house. As for the flooring, you need to tell us which option you are after: whole home heating or 'foot warmer'? The 'foot warmer' is when you have ANOTHER whole home heating system (forced air, etc) and the floor system is simply there to take the chill of the feet/legs. This is the easiest one to work around as it doesn't have to do much work. That's when you can use things like carpet or wood or even laminate (sometimes even a high end vinyl). But the whole home heating system is another beast. It has PLENTY of work to do. That means AS MUCH HEAT as possible MUST PASS through your floors. That means you want as much conductivity as possible = concrete, tile or stone. You want a floor that heats quickly and throws off heat REALLY EASILY. Wood is a semi-conductor. It is a partial insulator as well as a partial conductor. It isn't very good at throwing off heat because it has insulating properties. A laminate floor (wood pulp with a paper photograph sitting on top) would be a better choice because it is thinner than most engineered hardwoods (7mm - 12mm is normal for a laminate). But they too are made of wood-based products (wood pulp = fibre board) and will have some of the same properties as wood floors. So...the question becomes what type of heating system do you have? Foot warmer or whole home heat? Do you have a whole home HUMIDIFIER? Or whole home air conditioning? Because a wood floor will need both...the humidifier in the winter (yes...floor heat dries out wood sitting on top of it VERY quickly) and AC for summer humidity (helps dry out the inside of the house to keep the wood at a consistent moisture level). Better check your home's full HVAC set up before going forward with wood. You need climate control, not just temperature control, to keep wood happy....See MoreDarsh Patel
2 years agoSJ McCarthy
2 years agoDarsh Patel
2 years agoAhmed Hamed
2 years agoKarin
2 years agoHU-523184021
last yearUser
last yearlast modified: last yearHU-523184021
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