Look into Coretec, Adura Max, Karndean, and Flooret for good quality click lock vinyl flooring. Unless you plan to self-install, I strongly recommend finding a local flooring company known for excellent quality and good installation. Take home samples and look at them in morning, afternoon, and evening light. Flooret does not sell to resellers, but they can probably recommend local installers. Weshipfloors.com has good prices on vinyl flooring, but I cannot recommend or not recommend as I have never purchased from them. They have a line of vinyl plank flooring called "Kryptonite," and it's pricing is very good. Here's a light colour somewhat similar to what you posted that is very pretty: http://www.weshipfloors.com/flooring/silver-tail-luxury-vinyl-plank-flooring-3mm-x-63-x-48-cork Flooret has beautiful colours: http://www.flooret.com/modin-vinyl-plank-flooring/ Adura Max by Mannington: https://www.mannington.com/Residential/AduraMax/Search I'm having 2700 sq. Ft. of Adura Max Dockside Sand installed in a few weeks. Will post photos if you haven't made a decision by then. Coretec Dakota Walnut was my second favourite colour. The sample I brought home was lighter than the website photo: http://www.usfloorsllc.com/flooring-products/dakota-walnut/ I'm running out of time so cannot post Karndean link. Hope this helps!

I don’t think wood tile is comparable to other types of tile (or tile sizes) in terms of how likely it is to become dated. Salt and pepper granite tile is the only other kind of tile I automatically react negatively to. And that’s not really dated, it’s just harsh-looking and out of place in most settings. People may say they are sick of subway tile, but it’s popular for a reason. Terrazzo was almost unheard of for ages, and it made a huge comeback. I’m about to install terra cotta tile in a kitchen. It’s already dated and a lot of people hate it. I really wanted a patterned cement tile, but decided against that. Not because it’s trendy and might become dated (I already have 100 year-old cement tile in another room), but because it was too bold for a partially open kitchen and would have contrasted too much with the adjacent wood floors. While I realize terra cotta is “dated,” I’m convinced it’s appropriate in my setting. What I would NOT Install is fake terra cotta. In a laundry room or basement, maybe. But kitchens get more focus, and I wanted a floor that seemed like it could have been original. Did I do the same with the appliances? Of course not, people don’t have 100 year old kitchen appliances. Trying to approximate that would look ridiculous. I feel similarly about wood tile. I don’t even like engineered wood floors with details like beveled edges or intentional distressing, but I don’t hate them and I think sometimes they look very nice (and suspect other times I can’t tell).

Wow. Ok. Where to start. First and foremost the SHEET vinyl is the only one that can brag about water proof. If you have leaky pets or leaky people, this is the go-to product if water PROOF is a requirement. Sheet vinyl requires a professional install which is normally quite reasonable. The costs grow with the subfloor PREPARATION costs (where are a separate line item that may not have a "final total" until the job is complete). The click together vinyl planks are all the rage right now. Some are DIY friendly - but most are quite picky about technique and take +++patience to learn how to do it right without breaking the click-edge. It is possible to do this yourself....but it requires an understanding that you will have a STEEP learning curve. Be OK with that. The cost to install the planks is a little bit more than laminate flooring. Again the costs go much higher once subfloor preparation is added in. Again, this is a separate line item that, as above, might not have a final tally until the job is complete. The "flatness" quotient for vinyl planks is extremely important and can be considered outside the comfort zone of many long-term DIYers who have tackled several different projects. Again, it is possible to DIY....but it takes quite a bit of time to learn the skill/trade. A professional can have most of this done before you have figured out how to work the self-leveling-compound (which is not self-leveling BTW). Is there anything else that you were looking at for information? I've just touched on the two biggest differences between the two products. I didn't know how much info you were looking for.

I'm going to be the bearer of bad news. Most floating vinyl does NOT allow underlay. In fact, many of them will do EXACTLY what you are describing if underlay is used. These planks are flexible and their edges are brittle (as described above). They need RIGID underlay (aka. plywood or concrete) underneath them. Anything "squishy" (like foam underlayment for laminates) is likely to cause the vinyl to bend and the edges to "snap" (hmmmm...sound familiar?). Somewhere in the installation instructions it will SAY what it can be installed with. Today's installation instructions will CLEARLY LIST the products that are ALLOWED. If it is not listed, it is not allowed. Whomsoever told you "...yah. Underlay is fine," didn't read the installation instructions. As the purchaser/material provider, you would have read the instructions yourself before purchasing the underlayment. I've researched products for more than 7 years, and yet I am UNABLE to find WRITTEN instructions on the web. That's disturbing to me. It means "Coastal Estates" is a generic name for someone else's vinyl. Find out who MAKES the stuff and you will find the installation instructions on-line. Until then, it will remain a mystery. As the purchaser, you will be responsible for providing all the materials needed to install the product. If you purchased underlay and handed it to the builder (who does NOT normally install vinyl floors) then you are responsible for the mistake. In case I am wrong, you should find a BOX of the stuff (you bought it = you own it) and dig out the INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. Read them CAREFULLY. Ask yourself: "Is underlay (the soft stuff) mentioned ANYWHERE in the text?" If it is NOT listed, it is NOT ALLOWED. And "no" the GC's installer will not "read" anything (which is what needed to be done BEFORE it was handed over to the builder). These guys are not "flooring professionals". They are "guys" who can swing a hammer. You became the "flooring professional" when you purchased the product. And the "guy" who installed it became your "subcontractor" or your employee for that part of the project. In this case, you became the GC for the flooring. And the GC (ahem...that's you) would be responsible for any/all concerns or problems for that section of the project. The subcontractor's work is the GC's responsibility (which you took over when you purchased your own product). The builder would be responsible for all of this is S/HE had PURCHASED/SUPPLIED the vinyl. But s/he didn't. And s/he isn't. Please list the brand of UNDERLAY you purchased and the thickness. I should be able to say whether or not it is too thick/squishy for vinyl. Does it say it is rated for "vinyl planks"? Most are not. There are VERY FEW underlayments that are SPECIFICALLY rated for vinyl plank products. Very, very, very few. And they are EXPENSIVE. So expensive that most people gasp and then skip that step. Here's a hint. The underlayments that are "rated" for vinyl are traditionally 1.2mm THICK (about as thick as a "fake finger nail") and are made of "mass loaded vinyl" which can be as much as $1.20/sf. They are often gray (some times a charcoal colour) or a super dark blue (almost black). Does any of that sound like what you purchased?