thanks for the color compliments, dixiedoodle. the pictures aren't really 'true to life'. the den is a soft grey blue and the dining is a soft yellow called ionic ivory. it looks more green in the picture. and thanks to both of you for reassuring me that it's fine. yeah, the dining room fixture is a little high because we have 12ft ceilings. do you think I should order an extension rod? I think i can get that from kichler.

I googled and found this resource, which may be helpful to you and others here with measuring questions... 1) Dining Room Chandelier Installation Height: 30" above the table for a 8' tall ceiling, 34" above the table if the ceiling is higher than 8'. 2) Dining Room Chandelier Width: 12" less than the narrowest side (width typically) of a rectangle or oval table, 18" less than the diameter of a square or round table. 3) Dining Room Chandelier Fixture Height: 3" per foot of ceiling height or 24" for a 8' ceiling. 4) Foyer Chandelier Fixture Height: 3" per foot of ceiling height with 30" maximum 5) Foyer Chandelier Installation Height: About 1/3 down from ceiling to base of fixture so that light disperses evenly in foyer. So for a 20' foyer, the base of the chandelier should be 6-7' below the ceiling. 6) Foyer Chandelier Width: 1" per foot of ceiling width measured diagonally. A 12'x12' foyer would require an 18" wide chandelier. 7) Wall Pictures or Hangings: At "eye level". That's a pretty wide range but typically around 65" off the floor. Check the look by pinning a properly sized piece of paper on the wall with straight pins. Once correct, mark for the hanging hardware. Using 2 hooks is recommended to hang and keep a picture straight - assuming of course that your hooks are level! 8) Valance Height: No less than 1/4 and no more than 1/3 of your window height. That's why most pre-made valances are 15-18" because the majority of standard windows are anywhere from 45-72" tall. Personally, I prefer them closer to the 1/3 mark for a fuller, richer feel. 9) Kitchen cabinet height: 34-1/2" tall off the floor. 10) Kitchen cabinet wall installation height: 18" off the counter top or 54" above the floor. 11) Kitchen base (floor) cabinet width: 24" 12) Kitchen wall cabinet width: 12" 13) Kitchen countertop space by sink: 18-30" on one side and 48-54" on the other. 14) Kitchen countertop space by range: 12" minimum on one side and 15-24" on the other. 15) Microwave and built in oven countertop space: 15-18" on the right side assuming a left hinged door. 16) Dishwasher front space: 20" from the open dishwasher door to any obstruction or traffic. 17) Table: 36" between table and any traffic area or obstruction in order to have plenty of space to move chairs in and out. 18) Island and Breakfast Bar height: Standard cabinet height (34-1/2") for standard work area, 30" for table style seating, 42" for stool height. 19) Countertop height: 1 to 1-1/2" standard. 20) Bathroom cabinet depth: 18-20" 21) Bathroom cabinet height: Standard is 29" so with the countertop it's like a table, but this is quite short for adults to use a sink. Some manufacturers are now making bathroom vanities at 32-33" tall. I used a compromise for our kids at about 31" plus the countertop. 22) Master bathroom cabinet height: While standard height is still 29", I'd recommend using something taller like a kitchen cabinet height of 34-35". However, you will not be able to use a standard bathroom countertop if you use a kitchen cabinet base as the widths are different (24" for a kitchen, 18" for a bath). You'll either need to get a custom countertop or a custom cabinet. These measurements are important to know when designing and laying out a project or when hanging new light fixtures. Be sure to design enough space and to pick the correctly sized accessories to fit and provide balance to your room. It's too late once the kitchen is built and the island is in to realize that you can't open your dishwasher all the way. Measure first and use this as a handy guide! Good luck.

You should be sizing your chandelier to the table and not the area. How big is the table? With that information, finding one which will not obstruct won’t be easy (as chandeliers are made for their impact), but not impossible. Also…your decor style? That’s important, as well.

Thank you @JustMe, I understand what you are saying about ordering the singles. That certainly is an option. Let me clarify myself....we wouldn't be removing a coffer to hang a light. In fact, we would be adding the coffer. We toyed with the idea of adding a coffer to the dining room ceiling anyways prior to purchasing the light. We are the builders so we can add this at any point before we go to drywall. The ceiling in that room can either be a tray or a coffered ceiling. If we do put a coffered ceiling in this room, the base of the light could be mounted on the beam of the coffer. By doing so, the hanging globes would then be the correct height above the table. Sorry if I wasn't clear in my original post. So I guess my question now would be if the light would look weird if it was mounted to the beam of the coffer?