The lowest bulb 30” above the table would be best but I do not see how this fixture can really be changed to hang differently than what it is without being completely rewired.

Capping off the detail of the coffer sounds pretty crazy to hang a light.

What is the size of the room, what is the length of the table? Could you swap the clear shades for the ones that have the ombre gold tone? That might help you a lot in terms of giving it some more umph. I fear otherwise it will look like the user-posted photo. lowered or not.

This looks much better IMO:

@RL Relocation LLC We actually did purchase the ombre gold tone bulbs for this light and not the clear.

The size of the room is 15' long and 11'7" wide.

Table is 92" long and 42" wide.

Here are the details of the fixture from the West Elm website

MIXED

• Overall product dimensions: 44.5"w x 17.3"d x 20.4"–52"h.
• Minimum hanging length: 20.4".
• Maximum hanging length: 52".
• Canopy dimensions: 36"w x 9"d x 1"h.
• Small shade dimensions (4): 8.5"diam. x 8"h.
• Medium shade dimensions (3): 11"diam. x 10.4"h.

@User based on the above, I believe the 52" is the length of cord to the bottom of the lowest hanging globe.....unless I am misinterpreting the dimensions?

The height is adjustable for all of the globes.

@RL Relocation LLC The picture you posted above is from the West Elm website right?

To me, the bottom of that fixture appears to be more than 36" above the top of the table. But maybe my interpretation of height is skewed LOL.

@RL Relocation LLC Good Call! I just did that for a friend (#3 build for this family)

I'm seeing this more often with online (lack of pro consulting) purchases that ultimately cost more than going to the fixture store. Electricians are usually cooperative for modding a single fixture while onsite, but a small swarm of fixtures needing hourly work is costly, much more so than most fixtures.

You would simply remove three of the short ones and put in three of the long ones, they all need to be reset anyway so its actually not any "rewiring" as it is swapping. And yes I believe in lighting stores, especially non-chain mom and pops they are much better at thinking outside the box for the most part.

@Rower 76 Yes it is more than 3ft of the table, so it was a reference to what you will basically get. if you leave it as is.

Just spoke with West Elm representative and confirmed that the total length of cord is 52" for each light. The globes vary in size. One smaller globe is 8" high and the larger globe is 10.4" high. That will now bring the lowest hanging light to approximately 39-40" above the table based on the larger globe.

I guess you are just not hearing what I am saying, or Im not expressing it correctly. order 3 singles, swap them with three of the shorter ones. Have an extra glass, and have the right length.

Or live with it the way it is, I would not remove the coffer just to hang a light..........

Thank you @RL Relocation LLC, I understand what you are saying about ordering the singles. That certainly is an option.

Let me clarify myself....we wouldn't be removing a coffer to hang a light. In fact, we would be adding the coffer.

We toyed with the idea of adding a coffer to the dining room ceiling anyways prior to purchasing the light. We are the builders so we can add this at any point before we go to drywall. The ceiling in that room can either be a tray or a coffered ceiling.

If we do put a coffered ceiling in this room, the base of the light could be mounted on the beam of the coffer. By doing so, the hanging globes would then be the correct height above the table.

Sorry if I wasn't clear in my original post.

So I guess my question now would be if the light would look weird if it was mounted to the beam of the coffer?

But would the coffer wind up in the right spot for the room relative to the light fixture? That’s just throwing another stick in the spoke, because that math should be done during the design phase. Everything has to align correctly to the coffer grid when you choose to do a coffer. It’s a huge redesign of more than the ceiling of the math doesn’t work.

Pick RL’s solution. It’s the one with the highest chance of success.

Agreed, this size of the mounting plate vs. the size of the coffer beam, and the pattern to all make sense.........seems like you would be designing a space around a light fixture that in 5 years you could easily want to change.

It would look like an afterthought, as the beam is narrow relative to the mounting bracket you would end up with over hang off the beam...its just not adding up.

I try not to hang lights from a beam, it makes them look fake and deteriorates the integrity of the space.

I've been trying to decide for my 11' ceilings and my electrician thought 30" above the table was too low. I found there seems to be a fair amount of variation from lighting sources on the internet for height for dining fixtures.

Studio McGee recommends 33-34 from table to fixture bottom for an 8' ceiling, and then to add 3" for each foot higher. So for 11 foot ceiling, they would do 42-43" above the table, which seems would work for your fixture. You would be below this.

However, the picture they show is for a level chandelier. Your fixture has one light noticeably lower than the rest, so I think 39-40" might look good.

Your fixture is gorgeous, and seems modern which doesn't seem to fit with a coffered ceiling, even if you could fit the 9" canopy plate width on a coffer.