Background: We are taking these two walls as part of remodeling. The two walls are marked "X" in the picture of lengths 36" and 84". These walls are located in the first floor directly below our master bedroom and master bath. We have a finished basement on the floor below these walls. We discovered drain pipe and inlet water line running through one wall (36") and it is also a load bearing wall. We confirmed by opening a small part of the sofit, where we located these drain pipe + water inlet pipe. The drain pipes for the master bath sink and jacuzzi are through another wall but they use all share the same inlet water pipe. The master bath shower is directly over the intersection of 36" wall and 84" wall. The inlet pipe or water line runs from basement to the master bath through this side wall (36"). In addition, the drain from the shower upstairs runs down through this wall. There is a sofit above the wall (84") which we plan to keep even after removal of the wall. Therefore, the suggestion from the plumber/contractor is to keep the sofit and run plumbing through the sofit to the other end and bring it down through the adjacent wall. i.e., "wall A". Then in the basement run the plumbing across the length of 84" wall to connect back to the original drain. In short, instead of a straight drop down we go around 3 sides of the rectangle. We ahve also located a waterline running from water heater in the basement through the wall A. My concern is (1) whether this will affect pressure in the shower upstairs? (2) Also, drain running all the way through all these walls - is it OK? (3) any better alternative? We have structural engineer to provide drawings to remove the walls. (4) Should I ask him to help with these plumbing lines? Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge on how we should proceed.

Most people will change the pipes to a chrome or oil rubbed bronze to the stub out (you may have to sleeve the stub out). However, with plumbing there really is not a standard answer. In any type of recent construction that would be the common method but once you get into older houses the plumbing stub out can be in a wide variety of places, and might have to be moved. Do a Google image search for "Exposed Plumbing Vanity"

So this is a really loaded question: Like asking if there's a difference between price/quality for cars. Many mainline faucet companies make very good mid-priced faucets that are good quality, durable, stylish and available at big box stores. You can certainly spend significantly more money and get higher-end design, materials, etc. However, it's not necessary to do that to get a durable faucet. Whether spending additional money for solid brass, high end design, etc. is worth it is a personal decision -- same as it is with appliances. Here's the thing that I've said before: The price of faucets is out of line with what they are. I can buy a good quality dishwasher, with stainless steel inside and out, that will ACTUALLY WASH THE DISHES, not just look at them, for $500-800. We are making kitchens into crazy expensive spaces with stone countertops, high end appliances, super expensive cabinets, etc. And if you have that kind of money... fine. But don't get bullied into thinking that you have to spend $1,000 on kitchen faucets or a buy a Wolf range to have a nice and well designed kitchen.

In my area, the going cost for a dig is $3,000 to $5,000 for a basic job, more for longer distance, or having to go into the right of way. One permit is needed for the plumbing work with a different one for breaking into the sidewalk and street, if that is necessary, plus contractor or DIY homeowner must have a completion bond on file. Lining the pipes is a minimum of $3,800 plus $140/ft after 10 feet. I just had a rental property sewer ran with the camera and the company was using the low cost camera service as a lead generator. Their very profitable no-dig option is more expensive than digging but doesn't destroy the landscaping. Previous tenant of that property worked as a laborer for a sewer contractor and I heard a few stories which did not improve my general impression of that profession. I am sure there are some good honest companies in that line of business but it might take a bit of work to find them. I do know that there is nothing simple about some of these jobs; watch someone who knows how to dig and it looks like all that is required is to pick up the shovel and start in. Turns out that getting a trench of the right width, depth and direction is tougher than it might seem.