Hydronic heat is only suitable with narrower solid if the tubing temperature is run extra low. The whole system has to be designed around it, with the increased spacing and the mixing valve factored in to allow the temps to be cooler. Hydronic is already less responsive to rapid temperature changes than traditional radiators or forced air systems. Lowering the temperatures takes it to such a minimal temperature delta that you will be feeling cold for a hour or so if a rapid cooldown outside occurs. Or, you'll be sweating with the windows open if you have a big temperature rise. That occurs a bit anyway with radiant heating, but it can be perceived as worse with low temp radiant. Doing the loops at a low temperature also affects how the system "feels" to humans as well since the foot zone isn't as warm. It's much less of a benefit for the greatly increased cost over forced air, since comfort is the main reason that it's chosen. It's not a budget choice to begin with. We were only able to include it in our shop project because we did the install ourselves. And, the finished concrete is the finished surface, so there is no insulative effect between the heat and the people like there is with other materials like wood and carpet. The more of an R value that a material has, the more of an impediment it is to radiant heating. That's why traditionally radiant was confined to concrete or tile floors. Engineered will always be the better choice with in floor heat over crawlspace, and the ONLY choice for slab on grade. It expands and contracts less, and is far more stable. You cannot tell a good quality engineered wood from solid just by looking. It will look the same, and wear the same. Better quality engineered flooring has more core plys, and uses species ply instead of pines or firs. It's never a cheaper choice than solid, just the right choice for the conditions, like slab construction or in floor heating. As far as an oil finish, there are many many different types of oil finishes out there, and most are not very protective, which is the first function of a finish for a floor. Some of the factory oil finishes with polymers can be almost as durable as regular polyurethane. They aren't very DIY "repairable" though. An expert can repair even an polyurethane finish because he does the whole board, which is one separate piece. Poly remains the best choice for the most protective finish. Really, your issue is more a lifestyle adjustment problem than a finish problem. People with pets needs to accustom themselves to trimming their nails. Weekly. If you hear them clicking on the floor, the nails are too long. And, rugs should be at every entrance to the home, where outside debris is trapped. Those rugs should be changes/washed frequently. And it's a source of a lot of debates back and forth over the years, but those who are a shoes off inside the home family do have less wear and tear on their floors as long as they wear slippers or socks. Acids and oils from bare feet is just as bad as outside dirt when it comes to damaging your floors.

We are trying to think like the installer. We realized that our machines will have to be connected, leveled, and then pushed into a very tight space. So, we decided to: 1) max on insulation in floor and adjacent walls to try reduce vibration noise. 2) plumb the back and side walls according to where the machine outlets are (water, electricity, dryer vent). (Got a diagram of the back of the machines from the owner's manual) 3) install a Watts IntelliFlow (about $200) for leak detection 4) stub out the waste pipe already there for a pan because a delivery guy we consulted told us that they may not be willing to lift heavy machines over a lip, so we abandoned a built in, tiled pan. We would have liked to have a real floor drain but code requirements made this another $2000 worth of plumbing. 5) bought braided, steel hoses for extra measure. Here is a link that might be useful: Watts Intelliflow

Beautiful rug, justgotabme! I really like that design. Pip's a big boy (around 18 lbs. worth of goober-cat), and we have enormous boxes. The one he pooped outside of today is definitely big enough to accommodate him (he DOES pee in there), and we also have a large, shallow plastic tote - the under-bed storage kind - that we've repurposed as a kitty potty. Putting a plastic runner under/in front of the box he pooped outside of today is an excellent idea. I was going to get a litter-trapping mat (have one of those upstairs and it works well), but a piece of plastic is a better idea given our special circumstances. Did I mention - Ugh, cats?

Were the edges of the rugs "bound" with a different material? Or was it a stitched weave right to the edge? How old were the rugs when you removed them? You mentioned animals. Did they have accidents on these rugs? I'm trying to figure out if there was a transfer of chemical from the rugs to the hardwood. There are certain things that can penetrate a polyurethane/urethane finish on hardwood. Oils and waxes are two such things. Latex or rubberized products are another set of chemicals that can leach into a finish and bond with it. Water can seep past a finish as well as urine. That's why hardwood can be damage by prolonged water exposure...the water goes past the finish and then hits the wood. Thus causing a "water" or "pet" stains. I would hazard a guess that whatever has happened it has penetrated the finish and is now embedded in either the finish or the wood itself. It that's true, then a full sand and refinish would be the only thing that will rid you of the outline. Because a sand and refinish is such a dramatic event, I would suggest leaving the area open to sunlight for a few months. See if UV exposure will help the appearance of these outlines. It is free. All you need is time. It's worth a shot...because it will cost you nothing. And please, STOP using the steam and the vinegar. Rubbing alcohol is fine in small amounts. The steam cleaner and the vinegar can cause more damage to a finish that the rugs ever could.