They want an air hole/vent in addition to a service panel. The manual says: The service access panel is often the best place to install the air vent. They also state that if you remote mount the motor in a closet,(which looks like you did), there must be at least 1 in. gap between floor and door. Apparently there could be an issue of the motor overheating without the air vent. ??? The tub we're ripping out has an access panel with a vent in the middle of it... like a furnace air return vent. The new tub will be across the room, though. I can remote mount up to 15 feet but then I'm worried about the air cooling off on its way over. The air flow is 75cfm at maximum speed. Chosen space must be at least 50 ft to the third power -- There's an example of 3' x 2'2" x 8' = 52ft to the 3rd. The tub is going to be set in an 84 x 54 deck with the motor tucked under the end. Is that big enough? lol-my eyes are crossing! They recommend an ambient room temperature between 72-86 degrees. Have you used your tub? Does your closet area get hot?

to joffeyu: If you do cook, especially with gas stove, regardless of what and how, you NEED a range hood. I do custom kitchen cabinets and work with all brands of appliances. In my 25+ years of experience, IÂve installed every kind of appliance there is. You name it, IÂve done it. Regardless of your environment, thereÂs always a way to vent a range hood to the outside - many windows, few windows, somewhere in between. The only exception is a high-rise building with concrete ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows. In that case, a ductless (carbon filters) option can be used, which I personally donÂt like and donÂt recommend. Worst-case scenario, a flat 3.5" x 10" duct could be used, boxed in sheetrock or another material to match your ceiling. It might seem like a big deal to you, but it is definitely an easy and low-cost job for any handyman. If your options are "downdraft or nothing"  I would say thereÂs no difference. DD systems donÂt work. Period. I strongly believe that every kitchen must have a range hood, ducted to the outside. There are a lot of different types of range hoods, with a huge variety of designs, shapes, and prices. The cost of a duct system, including the installation of your range hood, would be between $ 100 and $ 400. And it pays off within a couple of months of usage, with a smell- and grease-free kitchen environment. You donÂt have to worry about alarms, and you donÂt have to deal with a greasy film on the furniture. IÂm sure if you do your research, on Google, Yahoo, and HomePortfolio, you will find 100Âs of different models that would match your design and needs. Ebay would offer you nothing but cheap Chinese imitations with "Italian style" and totally false specs. So, in conclusion  proper venting is good, there are more options than you think, so donÂt give up!

"The closet the gas furnace is in, is not ventilated. The closet does not have a roof, but opens up into the attic. He does not think there is enough fresh air making it down to the furnace, and he does not think the fumes from the furnace are making it up into the attic." the closet is actually very well vented if it is open to the attic at the ceiling (roof?) of the closet. "He has instructed us to nail some gutter pipe (gutter pipe, because it is square, and will fit the limited space better than round pipe, but to mee gutter pipe seems awfully small diameter) into the closet to increase circulation. One peice going 12 inches into the attic, and another peice 12 inches off the floor. To me this seems awfully suspicious, I cant see how this will work, and I'm scared." I usually install a ceiling in gas furnace closets using ductboard (doesnt burn) from inside the attic. Usually a 5 or 6" vent pipe from inside attic..12" above insulation with a bug screen. the pipe goes thru ductboard ceiling to where the air intake of the gas furnace is located. I've started putting an inline manual damper..open when furnace is in use..closed for cooling season. "He also noticed that someone has stapled fibergalss insulation to the inside of the closet door, and we should remove that. That the entire door needs to be replaced with a very tight fitting door." Someone was trying to overcome the temp transfer from top of heating closet being open to attic. Bat insulation is not a good idea..but ductboard works well. and door should be weatherstripped. while the venting will supply the air needed for the furnace, it won't vent fumes. there shouldn't be any fumes if furnace is operating properly..there are vent pipes attached to the equipment that vent out of the roof. as for the smell...it could have been a sealant that he used or many things. I would call the original person who did the install and tell him your concerns. Granted there are better materials to use but it sounds like he/she was on the right track. better to close in ceiling and make it air tight and bring fresh air to the furnace than to leave the ceiling open to the attic. just my experience here in hot humid La. it may vary if your area is different. best of luck.

Please keep in mind that just b/c you see other kitchens with something, it doesn't mean it's a good design. There are so many poorly designed kitchens out there! Even magazines show kitchens that look nice, but all too often they're a functional nightmare! Pretty pictures sell magazines, not functional discussions! The picture you posted at 20:35 looks like it might be safe enough b/c it looks like there's at least 24" all around the cooktop. As to venting, though, it's sadly lacking. The picture you posted at 20:38, on the other hand, is very poorly designed - both for safety and functionality. That cooktop would have been torn out b/f I moved in if that were my kitchen! Telescoping (retractable) downdrafts are still downdrafts. They work against gravity. Think about it, fumes, smoke, steam, grease, odors, etc. rise, they do not fall (well, large grease splatters do eventually if the don't land on something first - but a fine mist of grease will rise pretty far). To have any hope of working, downdrafts (even telescoping) need to be very strong and the pot/pan must be right up next to it and shorter than the top of the fan by a few inches. If you're OK with the consequences of inadequate ventilation (gunk that forms on ceilings, walls, cabinets - grease/steam settle on surfaces and then dust/dirt/other particles settle on the grease/damp surface and form a layer of gunk), then that's your decision. Just be sure you make an informed/educated decision. It's your kitchen, after all. Good luck!