Looks like carrot family, as in fennel or dill. Is it aromatic? Of course, this being a tropical area, the sky is the limit - it could be some kind of completely unrelated plant, with your photo not giving us much to go on.

I googled the terms "color changing hydrangea" and came up with several hits to Direct Gardening ads for such a product. Direct Gardening is notorious for promoting suspect plants with unbelievable descriptions, they fail to provide proper botanical names and they have a horrible reputation for poor quality and dismal customer service. The plants in question appear to be some form of paniculata, presented as both a shrub and in tree form. The flowers will go through a color change but nothing to the degree they describe. White flowered hydrangeas simply do not change colors other than the normal aging/fading process which varies from plant to plant. They will not turn blue, they will not turn "royal purple". They may very well start off as a pale greenish color, develop into a creamy or even pure white and then as the flowers age, fade to a soft rosey pink, which may or may not deepen to a darker color, depending on sun exposure, climate and specific cultivar. Be cautious of marketing ploys (well put, yg!) that offer extraordinary attributes - they are usually false or highly exaggerated. And for heaven's sake, if you are spending the money to order plants by mail order, be sure to order from reputable sources that provide the correct name and don't rely on marketing hype to entice consumers.

Mia, Yes , I think it will work. Interplanting tomatoes with other crops is something I do all the time. I often grow smaller plants like lettuce and carrots underneath and between tomato plants, essentially using them as a living mulch beneath the taller tomato plants. I also mix all kinds of herbs into the tomato beds as well, and think those herbs help explain how I grow so many tomato plants and yet only rarely see even a single tomato hornworm or fruit worm. You sometimes will get less yield per plant when you interplant multiple kinds of crops together using close spacing, but since you have a lot more plants occupying the soil, you still get a good harvest . The best carrot crop I ever had was a result of me broadcast sowing lettuce and carrot seed randomly into the tomato bed after the tomato plants already had been transplanted into the ground. My garden was smaller then and I had run out of space, so was packing as much into each bed as I possibly could. I just thinned carrots and lettuce after they sprouted. When I grow onions with tomato plants, normally I hammer a stake into the ground where each tomato plant will be planted later, and leave a small unplanted spot there as I plant the onions. When it it time to transplant the tomato plants into the ground, I put one tomato plant next to each stake. If I have to pull up a couple of onions to make room for a tomato transplant, it isn't a big deal . We eat those onions as scallions. I started interplanting multiple types of plants together long ago, after reading John Jeavon's book "How To Grow More Vegetables...." book. It is amazing how much you can pack into even a small space when you interplant. Even when I grow tomato plants in molasses feed tubs, I generally have pepper plants, herbs and flowers mixed into each container with the tomato plants. Look at how Mother Nature mixes everything up together. On the eastern edge of our woodland, for example, we have native pecan and oak trees growing as the dominant plants, but underneath them we have wild cherries, American persimmons, possumhaw hollies, and redbuds, and beneath those understory trees we have American beautyberry bushes, native blackberries, inland sea oats and brushy bluestem, peppervines and several native wildflowers which ebb and flow with the seasons. All of them happily co-exist. Why can't our gardens be the same way? To garden bio-intensively in this manner, you need to pay careful attention to soil fertility and irrigation (if adequate rainfall is not being received). Obviously when you interplant several types of edible crops together, the plants will be competing with one another. I get smaller onions in interplanted beds than I get from onions grown in a monoculture with recommended spacing, but still get tons of onions. We still have several dozen onions from last year's crop, though now they are starting to sprout. There pretty much is nothing grown in our veggie garden that isn't interplanted with several other things. If I ever were to plant even one single monoculture bed, I'm pretty sure I wouldn't like the way it looked and would be out there trying to fix the bed by adding more stuff to it. In fact, I do have my onions planted as monoculture beds right now, but that is because they are the only thing I've put into the ground so far this year. The onions will not be alone in those beds for long. Hope this helps , Dawn

Gary, I've had my Indian Pinks for about 6 years now, but I don't recall them taking that long to establish. They bloomed the first year I planted them from very small bare-root plants. They are truly easy, Chandra, if you want an easy plant that you can virtually ignore, after the first year I'd say. I do absolutely nothing to mine. Even in a drought year it will die back, but return the following year. The hummers love it, too. It blooms generally in late spring to early summer, and sometimes reblooms in late summer to early fall. I think it is one of the prettiest native wildflowers of any of them. The blooms remind me of tropical flowers. Nothing bothers it - insect pests, bugs, disease, whatever. It is both deer and rabbit resistant, which means they don't prefer it, but might eat it if other food is not readily available. Operation Rubythroat lists it as a top ten hummingbird plant. I love this little native, and it can be grown in shade or sun. What more could you ask of a plant? I haven't tried this, Gary, but at that other plant forum (you know which?), people say they have reseeded around - not invasively at all. I haven't had that happen with mine, yet anyway. But, they are one of those plants with seedpods that explode when they are ripe. Bagging the blossoms would help in that case. But, I don't know that I have ever seen the seed for sale, have you? I looked a little further and Easy Wildflowers states that cuttings should be taken of non-flowering stems, or before the plant blooms, and suggests 2-3 node cuttings. Don't know if the stems strike roots better that way or not, but worth trying. I would strongly recommend getting plants from Gary if you can because locally grown natives adapt much better. I visit the websites of both Easy Wildflowers and Illinois Wildflowers frequently because they have a lot of information available on the various genera and individual species of wildflower natives. I would expect this little native to get a Perennial Plant of the Year award in the future. Susan Here is a link that might be useful: Spigelia marilandica/Indian Pink