Have you seen deco chairs like that in person? They are really massive in scale. They would tend to overpower anything but a very bulky sofa. I think you can use a lighter scaled pair of chairs, especially if one of them has a small side table next to it. Go too large and you will start to cut off the DR. For end tables I would look at bedside chests and tables if you want something more solid. You used to be able to find simple solid cubes but I haven't seen many lately. Ethan Allen Chest: Here is my LR/DR which is quite large at 25 x 16 x 10 ceiling, and most of the seating is not massive in scale: the sofa is long at 96", My lamps are the same era as yours, and I think mine could have larger shades really. They did tend to go pretty big back then. The decor is not closely coordinated because I tend to add things I like as I go along.

You must be in my neighborhood! Seriously, your baths are SO similar to ours in our 1964 house. Here's what we have done: Master bath--was Pepto Bismol pink. We had it reglazed in white and it's holding up well. We had the tiny tile floor ripped up and redone. Upstairs hall bath--was baby boy blue. DH tackled this one (very unusual!) by ripping out the floor and taking down the tile. He installed white beadboard and a new floor. The tub is the same exact style you have, which really is a high quality cast-iron tub. I hate the cliche that they "don't make things like they used to", but in this case, I really think it's true. This tub holds the heat like no other. It's worth saving, either as is, or having it professionally reglazed. First floor half-bath--DH painted the tiles with a latex paint in a beige and we then had the floor redone by a professional. We added another full bath in the basement area and used a one-unit tub/wall combo (not nearly as good at holding heat as the cast iron tub upstairs). We did tile on the walls and floors. Check out professional tile reglazing in your Yellow Pages. It will tide you over until you can tackle a reno. My advise is this: keep the cast iron tubs, but change out the faucets to a "mixer valve", which is fairly inexpensive. Good luck. I did all I could do to live w/ the pink and blue. No matter what I did it screamed "60's"!

Of the two, option 1 sounds nicer to me. FWIW, polished stone is slippery, people and things don't bounce, but for centuries has been used throughout some parts of the world. I have them, am very aware of the risks and can't encourage you to go that route without stressing the dangers, but totally get your preference. People do say "Wow!" but only you can determine what's best for your lifestyle. They're cold which is great in the SE but may not be appropriate for your climate without radiant heat underlay, and you may find you need area rugs or other sound softening treatments like drapes. Some stones wear better than others so you may need to have them repolished sooner with some than others, and eventually all will need rehoning, though you can mitigate damage by not wearing the same shoes outdoor as inside to lessen scuffs. They are sensitive to ph levels so you need to use appropriate cleaners and avoid harsh and acidic products. In the kitchen you will want runners in front of your sink and cooking area. Stone, like any tile, can crack, particularly if not properly installed. Have I scared you enough? You can test your tolerance for them by walking around public spaces like hotels, hospitals, churches, etc.that have polished stone.

Except for the spheres, most of the stone cuts are "cabochons". This collection is typical of what a lapidary hobbyist might assemble. He/she would shape and polish the stones and then mount those in commercial findings. To do that, the stones are ground to standard sizes. The medium green, rectangular stone with 2 small spherical side stones. Carefully look at these two small spherical stones. Those appear to be opals. If these are opals, treat them with care. Opals are soft, but highly desirable due to their exquisite iridescent color. Read up on the care of opals because these can 'dry out' and become brittle. However, the better opals are stable. Opals thrive on oil absorbed from the wearer's skin. The purple rectangular stone may be amethyst. A couple of other pieces may also be amethyst. Amethyst can vary widely in color. The very dark, red-purple may be garnet. Garnet is much harder than glass and is considered a durable stone. Glass easily scratches and dulls whereas garnet will hold its polish. There are 2 small spherical, translucent pink stones. These could be in the corundum family; Pink to red ones are called rubies. Conundrums are very hard and durable. There is a pale red/pink oval cabochon and it is translucent. I'd call this one carnelian. Again, glass and carnelian can be differentiated by hardness. Glass has Mohs harness of 5 whereas carnelian is 7. The findings with a loop on each end were probably intended to be chained/linked to form a bracelet or necklace. The findings with a single loop were made to hang from a bracelet (think charm bracelet) or from a necklace chain. On a hunch, these could have been birthstones. A mother would have worn a birthstone for each of her children and herself. Below is a list of birthstones. Note that a month may be represented by more than one stone. This came about due to preference changes in different time periods, but one strong driver was cost. Not every one could afford or wish to wear expensive stones for all occasions, thereby other stones were selected as stand-ins. Amethyst was considered a common stone in the 1950s, but in recent years, the supply of gem quality amethyst has dwindled and its price has escalated accordingly. January Garnet February Amethyst March Aquamarine April Diamond May Emerald June Pearl Alexandrite July Ruby August Peridot September Sapphire October Tourmaline Opal November Topaz Citrine December Tanzanite Zircon Turquoise - See more at: http://www.americangemsociety.org/birthstones#sthash.N5U7f0l1.dpuf