Thanks. The shower is not huge: 36" x 60" footprint. I just finished the remodel this spring and, as you can tell from my other post, owe a debt of gratitude to these forums. I didn't do the tile myself but was very skeptical about my grout lines because of the bevel on my marble tile. My contractor (and Bill V without knowing it) reassured me. Although I thought they were too wide at first, I've grown to like them and the contrast caused by the gray grout. A lot of people use straight edge tile, and they really should know how the bevel affects the grout lines. But, like I said, I've grown to like it, and it saved me 40% on the tile costs (I was actually able to get my honed calacatta gold for less than $13 a square foot, which is a steal).

thanks for the confirmation that microbevel is the way to go. Though I confess I don't yet know why this is desireable. But I guess it is an advantage that I am at least so far not getting multiple opinions :-). Thanks again.

We just installed tile in two baths. Both with Daltile Hex (Keystones)on the floors. Master bath has 1.25 inch and the second bath has 1 inch. The second bath went in first and wow it looks amazing. The master floor started to get some grout today and I have to tell you, I wish I would have used the 1 inch because the 1.25 inch does not have the beveled edge. We used white tile with white grout. It just disappears, there is no definition or "reveal" as our GC says. For those of you out there wanting to use hex beware. We didn't even notice the two were different. When I asked our tile supplier about it he said he didn't realize there was a difference. ?? Anyway! We ran through some ideas. A. Popping out a few tiles and randomly throwing in a color - Gray. Too much $$$. B. Or the possibility of using muratic acid on white grout and regrout with a darker color. $$$ C. Or painting random tiles and sealing it with a varnish. D. Or my idea of using a sharpie on all the grout (just kidding). We went with plan E. Go ahead and finish grouting the rest of the floor in white. Over time the white will turn grayish ? Oh and throw down some very colorful rugs. ;o)

It starts with the appropriate design. Without seeing where these dropped areas occur my first thought was if they could have been dry walled and been painted to be a part of the ‘ceiling’ and not tiled at all as part of the ‘wall’. Not to necessarily drop the whole ceiling. So assuming it HAD to be tiled you and your tile pro discuss the overall design and details. A seasoned pro will know the tile sizes in relation to the spaces are either working or not. If you hired a handyman type who is just ‘doing what they are being told ‘ then you own this. I have to question if they have waterproofed properly because any tile pro who knows their stuff would have questioned those tiles used on those slivered areas (regardless of wether or not you got the correct schluter edge ordered).