Thanks for the reminder that local requirements may differ; I should append that qualifier to every posting in small legal print. The pertinent North Carolina Building Code Section is: "2304.11.2.2 Framing. Wood framing members, includ- ing wood sheathing, which rest on exterior foundation walls and are less than 8 inches (203 mm) from exposed earth shall be of naturally durable or preservative-treated wood. Wood framing members and furring strips at- tached directly to the interior of exterior masonry or con- crete walls below grade shall be of approved naturally durable or preservative-treated wood." (emphasis added) I would suggest to the authority having jurisdiction that an interposing section of XPS means that the wood framing is not "attached directly".

Looks like a fun project! This is the type of work we do all the time! Although we don't work in the Northwest, our knowledge of proper paver, patio & structure (pergolas) installation should suffice. The overall design looks great. There are a few SOLID pointers to building anything outside. 1. Solid foundation or footings. This goes for both the pergola & the paver or concrete patio. The pegolas structures usually needs a large footer (at least 18' x 18' wide, and usually 18' to 24' deep). This will ensure the new structure is solide. The pavers & patios should also have a good foundation, which we call the BASE. A well prepared paver base should be 6' of ABC (engineered backfill) - this ABC is usually crushed rock, granite or stone, and contains many sizes of aggreggate (not dirt) - this BASE is compacted firmly, and if done deep enough, should keep ALL your patios from settling over time. Here is some information on how we do our pavers - directly from my company website - Patio Pavers Concrete patios usually don't get this sub-base prep work, but if you are looking for a long term project, or concrete that won't crack - it's worth doing a 4' sub-base preparation for any concrete areas. Sometimes, we actually lay pavers over concrete - this is not the most cost effective way for new paver installation, but it's a great REMODEL tip. I noticed some asphalt areas there - pavers should be able to go directly over the top (with using some sand to get them to drain away from the house) 2. DRAINAGE - you've mentioned french drain, and you are on the right track of thinking. Proper drainage is KEY for a long term patio & landscaping project solution. Getting water away from the foundation of your house & pergola is very important! French drains are a great way to spread water and rid water over a long pipe run, for patios, it's all about getting water out into your grass area - it can dissappate from there... The patio beds up against the house will make a nice 'softening' of the house with some color & plant texture, just be sure you don't create a way for water to enter back under the house. Make sure your roof doesn't drain into these planters, and if it does - you'll need some guttering to push water away from the foundation. OVERALL - you should be able to see some of our pergola & patio cover pictures on my company site. I've found a few issues when building free-standing pergolas. 1. It will need SOME sort of block or foundation around the base of each column. Just having it sit on a footer tends to not help with the 'wobbly-ness' of the new structure. 2. Normal framing SIMPSON brackets are fine. The local home depot can supply many of these T-braces, lag screws, etc.... You should be able to see some of our Pergola construction techniques here. Otherwise, visit our landscape portfolio PERGOLA page on the same site. Lots of individual pics. Let me know if you have any other questions or concerns - i may be able to post some construction diagrams of our pergolas, if you'll find that useful? Here is a link that might be useful: UNIQUE LANDSCAPES Homepage

Wow, these ideas are amazing. Dig Doug, what is the purple flowering shrub in the middle of your first plan? I love the bougainvilleas up the pillars. I have to admit I actually like mixed beds In front of our house - maybe because the rest of the “yard” is just concrete, so having a lovely profusion of blooms is fun for me to come home to. Calidesign, your first image is lovely but looks like a pricey/extensive mix of plants? The trailing succulents is a great idea with roses. we live in South Africa and it’s definitely not a cookie cutter house! The door is hard to see in this pic but so cool - round-topped and Hobbity.

Watched a video of a guy who sprayed foam spray stuff or into a 2 liter bottle. Unless he used forced steam into the bottle at the same time as applying it, it did not cure. I think with the brick I am going to have the same issue. I am going to try and call them today but I feel that it is out. Might just do the Poly beans, if getting wet is the only issue then I think I should be ok. If the inside of the wall gets wet I have bigger problems I would guess. I am just worried about the off gassing. They still sell vermiculite but seems like only in garden applications and I don't want to create an Ant Farm or any other kind of insect farm.