I'm in San Jose... We're more "mediterranean" than "tropical" (like you) - but there're plenty of plants that'll do the trick! I have many of the previously suggested plants in my yard. I'll list some additions - mostly what I consider to be "Bomb-Proof" around here (Hint: If Cal-Trans plants it on median strips along the highway - chances are, you can't kill it! ;-) Hibiscus and Bougainvillea. Great color additions! I have Barbara Karst boug planted next to a bright pink - and quite tall - hibiscus (unfortunately, I don't remember the variety). They compliment each other nicely - and both do very well in hot, dry climates (with soggy cold winters!). We had an extra cold/extra wet winter last year, and I had very few fatalities! Cannas, Bananas, and Calla Lilies - definitely a good bet for that tropical foliage look. Cannas and Bananas will multiply like crazy. Oh, and Alocasia macorrhiza. Limonium (Statice) does well, and the leaves look tropical. And Queen palms do very well with little assistance. I agree on the Mexican Fan Palm - Stay away!!! I like mixing colors w/foliage and enjoy the "purples" against lighter greens. Some of the cannas are good for that. I also use Purple Majesty Ornamental Millet and Purple Fountain Grass. The "plumes" aren't so tropical - but I like the purple colors (and they both seem to thrive with little care). Another (drought-friendly) choice is New Zealand Flax which also comes in a bronzy-burgundy color. But it gets pretty big. Purple foliage against chartreuse is *really* nice. Ipomoea "Margarita" is a good choice for the chartreuse (Annual, though). Purple Fountain Grass at the base of clumps of banana trees looks cool... My yard is appx 85% Full-Sun (with little water in the summer) so I haven't had luck with things that don't like full-sun. Ergo Fatsia Japonica (it just gets fried!). Other ideas: If you happen upon any tropical plant sales (i.e. WalMart 4-inchers) - when they're cheap, I try to load up on tropical houseplants and stick 'em out in the yard (in the slightly wetter/slightly shadier spots) and treat 'em as annuals. I've had varying degrees of success w/that (my spider plants are thriving - and this is their 2nd year outdoors). I certainly wouldn't recommend planting the entire yard w/house-plants, but sprinkling them about seems to add a nice touch. Some of my houseplants go out in the summer, and back in in the winter, but the house is too small/dark to do that with very many plants. I have a portable greenhouse that goes up in winter - but only provides "marginal" protection. Hint for winter: Mulch Mulch Mulch!!! I'm posting a link to my Garden Page. I haven't updated it in awhile (That's a "Wintertime Chore"), but it might give you some ideas of what will grow around here - and what looks can be achieved. Weather's been too nice for me to spend much time on updates! I've got a BUNCH of pics in the camera (amazing to look back and see how much stuff has "grown!") - I just need to update the page... Soon... (But not *too* soon! I'm lovin' the warm weather too much!) HTH -Nancy Here is a link that might be useful: IMQTPI's Garden Photos

Hi Molly.. You could absolutely have a compact mini-garden in your spot. The GOOD thing is, since it's such a small space, taking care of it won't be so much work! I would suggest the following: Either: 1) As the other said, do a raised bed, and fill it with good store-bought dirt (probably your simplest solution...) or lasagna garden (disadvantages would be all the material you'll have to buy & haul in for the 'lasagna layers')... OR 2) Your best option, in my opinion: no raised bed,, just get the weeds, weed-roots, & rocks out with a fork, loosen it up REALLY good, and buy as much good dirt as you can (from Natural Gardener or Great Outdoors, or another garden store with a conscience).. something with lots of compost, hummus, etc.. already in it.. and once you put your plants in, put as much of the GOOD dirt under & around the plants as you can. Then you can till the leftover stuff in the rest of the bed. If you do this every year (& keep adding your own compost), your soil will get better & better, and you will have to do much less work every season. Then cover everything with a good layer of pine bark mulch. The mulch will also decompose into your soil and further improve it. THEN start a compost pile! This is the best way to start making your own soil. A vermicompost bin is another great way to do the same thing, but more concentrated. Leaves (from your autumn raking), kitchen scraps, b&w newspaper, chicken/cow/rabbit manure, hay, etc.. all go in both of these. And eventually it goes into your garden soil, improving it even more. This takes time though.. which is why you need to buy the good stuff, at first. By next year you can start adding the 'black gold' to your garden.. and that's a great feeling. Some reasons why your tomatoes probably failed before: 1) Soil not ready (see above) 2) Did you get healthy plants, from a good organic garden store or local farmers market? or, from a big box store (some folks might do fine with these, I would never risk it)..? 3) Did you get varieties that do well in our area? The good stores/farm mkts will sell these. 4) Did you get them in EARLY enough? Preferably mid-March to early-April. The main reason is that they need to get established before the brutal TX heat, and b/c if the nighttime temps are too high by the time they are just getting blossoms, the pollen gets too sticky/heavy in the heat and they might not fruit. So you need to get plants in the ground when nighttime temps are still cool (someone here might know the exact cut-off temp.. high 70's, I think?). 5) Did you feed them?? Tomatoes are heavy feeders, especially in our poor soil...unless you live on the east side, or somewhere with better dirt. 6) Was the soil well loosened/aerated around the plants? If not, the roots struggle too hard to get through our rocky-clay soil and cannot breathe, can't grow, & water can't get to them. 7) Did you give them enough room? How about support- a sturdy tomato cage? The small flimsy cone ones are worthless, IMO... get the biggest cones you can find, or the large folding non-cone ones if you are really serious. But if you have compact bush plants, this isn't as much of an issue.. 8) Stink bugs and other pests will likely take over around July, but that's kind of a given.. you can try sucking them up with a hand-vacuum... but usually by then I've gotten a good crop and I just give up (the mosquitoes are too bad to be outside much, and to hot anyway...) 9) How about water? It's best to water in the morning or evening, and just water the soil around the plants, try to keep the plants dry. Make sure they get a good deep watering, about once a week, or more often if it's really hot/dry. They will start to wilt a bit when they need more water. The longer you water them at one time, then leave them alone for as long as they can stand it, the deeper the roots will go. If you give them only shallow, frequent waterings, the roots will stay closer to the surface. 10) Toms need at the very least 4 hrs of direct light a day.. Soooooooooo... Here's what you need to get started (if you choose option #2): 1) a big garden fork/ spading fork-- which is an investment.. absolutely essential for loosening up our soil. You wiggle it into the soil by putting ALL your weight on it til it goes in- then start pulling up & flipping over the soil, & get all those pesky weeds out (make sure you get all the roots). Rocks too. This will also break up the clumps. Keep pushing the fork down as deep as it can go & scooping it up. Just think of those nice healthy roots going way down in there= healthier plants. It's hard work, but great exercise, and it gets easier.. just do a section each day & you'll be done in no time. Watering the soil a bit helps too. 2) shovel (of course) 3) at least a couple bags of good soil.. and remember soil is everything... it will feed your plants, which will feed you. So don't get cheap junk at walmart or wherever.. Ladybug brand is great, or something similar.. 4) a few bags of mulch, either pine bark or pine needle.. if you want a short cut, you can use a thick layer of leaves if you have a leaf pile handy. Mulch will help keep the soil moist after a rain/watering, & help keep soil from getting too hot and dry. Also helps delay weeds somewhat. 5) a bag of Rabbit Hill farms tomato & pepper food (my personal favorite). Put a handful of this into each hole as you put the toms in. Then work another handful in around each plant as they start to fruit, and every few weeks after. 6) a bottle of seaweed-fish solution & a regular sprayer bottle. Mix a half-capful or so with water (fill it up)- and mist the leaves every couple weeks (in the morning, before 9 am, when the leaf 'pores' are still open)... this helps heat/drought tolerance and also feeds your plants. I hope this doesn't sound complicated,, it really is simple! You will get into a rhythm and it will just become a natural part of your day. I would also suggest volunteering for the green Corn Project and planting a garden with them at least once, they use the biointensive double-digging method, which is basically kind of what I do (a simpler version). Or, visit other peoples' gardens (like at the Natural Gardener- theirs is amazing!) to get inspiration & ask for advice. You could probably do about 3 tomato plants (compact/bush varities might be easier to manage in that small space)... and maybe a few bush cukes and non-vining squash, a pepper or 2. Realistically that's probably all you're going to fit in there, so make sure you are putting in what you really want. But the biointensive method says.. the healthier your soil (and therefore, your plants), the more you can crowd them together. So keep that in mind. And don't forget about Austin's great opportunity for a fall/winter/into spring garden: spinach, broccoli, beets, carrots, asian greens, kale, cabbage, brussel sprouts, onions, potatoes,, leeks, peas, etc...! Good luck.. hope that helps!

Luseal (Lucille) in Pennsylvania posted this wonderful essay in October of 2002. It's a thoughtful guide for all ages to use in creating lower maintenance gardens with year round interest. Thank you so much Lucille :-) Your aging and winter gardens Posted by luseal (My Page) on Mon, Oct 28, 02 at 22:47 TO MAKE GARDENING EASIER AS YOU AGE, PLANT A GARDEN TO LOOK GOOD IN THE WINTER, (Only read this essay if gardening is your passion and you want to continue gardening to the "bitter end.") When I began serious gardening at the age of 23, I was as strong as a peasant woman. On week-ends I could garden for 10 to 12 hours with nary a sore muscle or aching joint. Before and after work on week days I would even put in an hour or two of hard work with no sore bones. But once I hit the age of 50, things began to creak, moan and pain me. At the age of 52 I got a bad case of vertigo which lasted two weeks. I was bedridden with this for one week, flat on my back. This is when it dawned on me, "Since I am not that super woman of age 23 how would I take care of my extensive garden if some physical problem really limits me in working in my garden?" I was especially thinking of this physical problem called "aging." I am now, way over 50, (older than Martha Stewart) and feel like 101,sometimes. I do not want to be one of those older gardeners who whine and lament: "I cannot work in my garden any more. It is too much for me. I can't bend, dig, weed, trim or plant like I did years ago. I do not have the stamina and energy. I get too sore working in the garden. My garden looks a mess. I must remove most of the plants and go back to just grass. Annuals are too much work. Perennials need too much cutting back and separating. Are my gardening days over? And finally, should I sell my property and move." Truthfully, all of the above statements are a reality for most older gardeners. Our bones do hurt us. Our bodies do slow down. We can not do what we did 30 years ago. So what are we to do? If gardening makes you happy and you do not wish to give it up, Plan for your older gardening days. How do you plan for your older gardening days? You do this by planning and planting a garden that looks beautiful in the Winter. These two can go hand in hand. This article is mainly written for gardeners in the Northeast U.S., zones 5-6-7-8. Planting a garden to look beautiful in three seasons and also in the winter means you must plant flowering shrubs, conifers, evergreen trees and deciduous trees that look especially good in the winter. It might be their bark, shape or color. Your winter garden should invite you to want to be in it even though the weather is cold or snowy. You must have enough interest and structure in your garden that it beckons to you to want to sit, walk around, and even putter in it even though the garden is dormant. This is very possible and the way I planned my garden. Let me tell you about my philosophy of winter gardening which is also my philosophy of gardening now that I am much older than 23. Structure Evergreen structure is the most important aspect of a winter garden. Look at your own garden. When your annuals and perennials die down, do you have "nothing?" I inwardly cry when I view a totally annual or perennial garden. It is so short lived for the amount of work involved. Why couldn't they have also planted evergreen shrubs in this garden for structure in the winter? The number of wonderful miniature and small conifers is legion. They look wonderful for four seasons of the year and get better with age. Get a good garden book and look up conifer shrubs to get ideas or talk with a horticulturist and pick his/her brain for his favorite choices. Plant many of them in every bed. In the winter, this is what you will be enjoying. Annual Flower Beds - Forget them. They demand too much work for 'me ol' bones'. Not only must you replant annuals each year but that bed becomes a nothing in the winter. Number one on my out list are annual beds. Do I plant annuals anymore? Truthfully? Yes, I do plant a few but not like I did years ago. I especially do not use them as borders because they disappear in winter and I do not use them much as fillers, for the same reason. If I do need an annual plant, I usually resort to the larger flowering New Guinea impatiens or similar plants. Easy in - easy out. Perennial Flower Beds- I love it when gardeners say, " I only plant perennial flowers " 'cause they are no work". To develope a beautiful perennial flower bed can be labor intensive. My greatest frustration in gardening was my perennial beds which are no more. Do I plant perennials? Yes, but not a whole bed. Most of my perennials are planted with conifers and shrubs and they are the type that you do not cut flat in the winter , but rather are left for the snow to do its magic. Which perennials give you the most for your time invested? Lilies, daylilies, all spring bulbs daisys, rudbeckia, goats beard, peonies, tree peonies, vitex, hostas, hydrangeas, etc. You know what works best for you. Cut down on hard jobs such dividing or removing overgrown plants- round up young, willing and able budding gardeners and encourage them to help themselves to your hostas or ostrich ferns or whatever plant is taking over your beds. I have even put a small sign in the front of my house - FREE -HOSTAS, FERNS,+FLOWERS. One morning a little boy came to my door with a big wagon and said "my mommy wants hostas, thank you." He returned home with a polite note from me stating that is was a "dig your own deal". She did return with him and they filled the wagon. Weeding- You can minimize weeding by planting thickly and using the filler plant ,i.e. hostas. Buy the newer varieties of this wonderful plant. Get rid of the old common variegated ones. They are feasts for slugs. Mulching- I do not mulch as much as I did years ago. Even though mulching cuts down on weeding, it is a lot of back breaking work. Decide for yourself how much you can do. If I am having a special party at my home I might bring in a dozen bags of mulch and place it in the beds I want to pretty up. If I am having a really big event, I hire some one to mulch my beds. Saves your ol' bones. Edging - Around each bed I plant Korean boxwood (all my English boxwood died). There may be as many as 30 to 40 surrounding each bed. Do you know how beautiful boxwood make each bed in the winter when most gardens are bare? Boxwoods add structure and look great with snow on them. Actually my boxwood hedges look great in all the seasons as they neatly frame my overflowing flowering shrubs, conifers, and flowers. Where boxwood hedges are too heavy or another effect is needed, I use Liriope as a hedge. Variegated and Green Liriope are my latest love. They are as tough as nails, slugs shun them, they grow fuller each year, their texture is fine and desirable, and they are evergreen most of the time. They even look good in the winter until a prolong freeze hits them. Liriope only need cutting down with a serrated knife in March or April. I have even gotten rid of my common hostas which I used to use as borders. In a good wet year as was the year 2000, the slugs feasted on the hostas and by the end of August everyone's hostas looked like Queen Ann's lace. Around most beds I edge with bricks laid flat and even with the ground so the lawn mower wheel can easily mow over them. This brick framing makes it easier for me because I do not have to dig to edge my bed each Spring. In the winter I sweep the bricks and that neatens them and In the early summer I simply remove any stray overflowing grass. I have noticed that if the edging of your beds look tidy, your beds look cared for. Verticle interest- Arbors of vines add height, vertical interest, and are fun to walk under. Do not remove the dry vines in the winter. The snow lands on them and they become a structure so different from what they looked like in the summer. An alluring snow tunnel. One of my long nine foot arbors is planted with two weeping evergreen atlas cedars. The weeping effect in winter is like icicles. Also in each bed plant a strong verticle structural plant. Something pyramidal. Usually in my beds it is a Hinoki, tall cypress, tall juniper, strong chubby yew, or Alberta spruce. Air conditioning - I never wanted central air-conditioning because I was told that you will never want to work outside anymore. I found out this is not true. I garden more since my " Air " was installed. How so? I know that if I work outside in 90+ degrees and am really sweltering, I only have to drag myself inside, have an ice tea, sit down for awhile to cool off, and I am fit to go outside for another hour or more. There were very few hot summer days that I did not garden at all. On those days it was because the humidity was 90+, the gnats were bad, the mosquitoes were in full force, or it was pouring rain. Flowering Shrubs- Use flowering shrubs such as evergreen and deciduous azaleas, enkianthus, crape myrtle, viburnums, rhodes, andromadas, vitex, and many butterfly bushes. Don't only plant azaleas in your front garden but fill your back garden with tons of them. It is a spectacular effect in the Spring and even in the Winter with snow on them. So what if they don't flower in the Summer or Fall. Neither do daylilies bloom in the Spring or winter. Small trees - On the ends of some beds I have been planting a small deciduous tree that will give me dappled shade as I walk through the paths. I do not like to walk through a garden that is in full sun. These trees though, will not give me heavy shade. If they do begin to give me heavy shade, I raise their hems, thin out selective branches, or remove wide arms. I am a little concerned about my limber pine because each spring, even though I cut the new growth in half, the tree is getting too tall to do this without a tall ladder. I think I planted too large a tree in a garden bed. Trees - Almost all the trees in my garden are flowering ones. What more can you ask for? Remember, these trees not only give you flowers and dapple shade in the summer and spring but also add interest in the fall and winter with snow upon their branches. Good choices are: weeping cherry, kwanzan cherry, styrax, franklinia, southern magnolias, soulangiana magnolia, crape myrtles, dogwoods, acer palmatum, acer grisium and all unusual maples, stewartia, sweet bay magnolia, fringe tree, golden raintree, sourwood, vitex trees, holly trees, and my favorite non-flowering trees; china fir, limber pine, umbrella pine, dragon's eye pine, and stately soaring dawn redwood. Clean-up -I now do not clean out my beds and lawn in the Fall or Spring. I hire Someone to do that. You can not do everything. A crew of five men came this November, right before Thanksgiving. It was wonderful to see these strong able guys rake and neaten all my beds and paths. They reminded me of my ol' husband when he was 30-40 years old and strong as they are now. They were finished in one day and it only cost me $400.00.How pleasant it was this winter to walk in my garden each day and see neaten beds instead of looking at all the work I would have cleaning up in the Spring. My husband loved it too. The date today is November 10th,2001, in Eastern Pennsylvania and many of my large deciduous trees have already dropped their colorful leaves and all my flowers are gone. Even my sugar maples are bare. But, I still do have 14 acer palmatum dissectums in full leaf. - brilliant red, yellow and orange, three shagbark maples ( acer grisium), are brilliant red. My 10 oakleaf hydrangeas, 'Snow Queen' are glorious mottled shades with all the leaves still on and all the large flowers still on. My enkiantus are brilliant red and all my azaleas have leaves that look great. Some are maroon and yellow in color. The foliage of the mentioned trees and plants seem to me to keep their bright and colorful leaves the longest. There is nothing in this Fall garden that I must coddle or give much attention to. Everything returns. I garden on 2 acres of land that used to be only grass with large trees around the perimeter. Over the past 30 years of gardening on this property, I have put in at least thirty beds of all shapes and sizes. I did not make these beds all at once. Each year I added one or two. Was my garden planned on paper and systematically implemented? No. Like Topsy," it just growed". In each bed I plant one acer palmatum, a group of pink or lavender azaleas, a vitex, a butterfly bush for height, a hinoki or unusual conifer shrub or two, and always a tall impressive pyramidal evergreen conifer for dramatic interest. With my Fall garden all cleaned and gussied up, all winter long I can leisurely putter around, snip here and there and enjoy myself. And you must have large garden benches placed around your garden. I have five sturdy ones placed in far reaches of the garden. This is especially important in the winter when one may not really want to be outside and be uncomfortable. Bundled up in winter coat, hat, gloves and with a hot cup of coffee in one hand and snippers in the other hand, the benches at the far ends of the garden are a nice destination where I can sit and enjoy my Winter Garden. This is different from what one often reads, "winter is the time to sit by your fireplace with garden catalogues in hand and "dream green". Each day that it is possible, I stroll and snip around the beds and sit on each of the benches and take in the view. My three cats also follow me and sit with me on the benches. Lulu Cat, usually snuggles in my furry coat lapels. This September I got a Maltese puppy, Cocoa-Mulch, who is now part of my entourage. Having a puppy this winter ensured that I would be outside five or six times a day. What is more fun than being in your garden with your cats and dogs? And husband? A husband to whom you can point out all the garden warts and things you want him to help you with come early spring. Nothing do I love more than lying across my bed looking out of my upstairs window at the full green winter garden below. Even without a snow covering there are large spaces of lush green pachysandra carpeting the ground. My two red brick terraces and a brown stoned courtyard also make for pretty carpeting. Nothing do I love more than sitting or walking in the early morning garden during or after a snow fall - Coat over bathrobe, rubber boots on, fortified with that hot mug of coffee and my "beasts".......Aah...... Do not garden for only three seasons of beauty. Also make an interesting WINTER GARDEN. Luseal --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

One of the things in the list of things-that-look-bad, is 'fake retaining walls'. If that's what you mean by an "... 8 - 10" paver stone wall," I would say don't do it. Since changes to the walkway and mowing strip was brought up, I think that's what whitewatervol was referring to by "hardscape." (... any work that's not planting) Now that I see how the porch and walk interface, I'd definitely make some improvements. The simplest, most effective thing you could do is to substantially widen the walk as it approaches the porch, so that it is really inviting. Now, especially with the raised edging, which makes the walk look sunken, it looks a bit like a section of obstacle course. Another thing that is disagreeable about the walk is how there is a 3" riser and 6" riser at the porch. This should be constructed so there is a single step ... or no step at all, if the grade of yard would permit it. I would definitely rebuild the last several feet of walk in order to fix this. (To eliminate the step all together, it would require rebuilding more feet of the walk.) I live in the hot South, too, and do not worry much about planting during the summer. We have irrigation and many of the plants that grow here like heat to grow. With a little extra water during the first month or so, most things do pretty well. Plus, once the rainy season starts, we usually get out of having to water for a few weeks. It's a visual idea ... not a plan and not immune to altering according to conditions and needs.