Pixie Lou, and Caryl, Regardless of whether you detox the jars or not, they all must be thrown away. You never save the jars.... Within 2 days there can be enough botulism to kill you. It only may take that short of time. So, you even if you detox the foods you still should throw the jar and all away. It is up to you, just telling you what it safe. ******************************************** All suspect containers of spoiled, low-acid foods, including vegetables, meat, seafood and tomatoes, must be treated as having produced botulinum toxin and handled carefully in one of two ways: aIf the jars or cans are still sealed, place them in a heavy garbage bag. Close and place the bag in a regular trash container or bury it in a nearby landfill. aIf the jars or cans are unsealed, open or leaking, they should be detoxified before disposal. Improperly canned, low-acid foods can contain the toxin that causes botulism without showing signs of spoilage. Jars of foods that have not been properly processed must also be discarded, or if they are unsealed, open or leaking they must be detoxified and discarded as directed above even if there are no signs of spoilage. Low-acid foods are considered improperly canned if any of the following are true: aThe food was not processed in a pressure canner. aThe gauge of the canner was inaccurate. aUp-to-date researched processing times and pressures were not used for the size of the jar, style of pack or kind of food processed. aProportions of ingredients were changed from the original approved recipe. aThe processing time and pressure were not correct for the altitude at which the food was canned. How to Detoxify Canned, Low-Acid Foods Contact with botulinum toxin can be fatal whether it is ingested or enters through the skin. Be extremely careful not to splash or come in contact with the suspect food or liquid. Wear disposable rubber or heavy plastic gloves. Wear clothes and aprons that can be bleached or thrown out if contaminated. Step-by-Step Instructions for Detoxification: aCarefully place the jars, with their lids, on their sides in an 8-quart, or larger pot or canner. aWash your gloved hands thoroughly. aCarefully, without splashing, add enough hot water to the pot to completely cover the jars with at least 1 inch of water above the containers. aPlace a lid on the pot and heat the water to boiling. aBoil for 30 minutes to make sure the food and containers are detoxified. aCool and discard the containers, their lids and food in the trash or dispose in a nearby landfill. How to Clean Up Contaminated Surfaces: aWear rubber or heavy plastic gloves to clean up contaminated work surfaces and equipment, including can openers and clothing that may have come in contact with suspect foods or liquids. aUse a fresh solution of 1 part unscented, liquid, household, chlorine bleach (5 to 6% sodium hypochlorite) to 5 parts clean water. aSpray or wet contaminated surfaces with the bleach solution and let stand for 30 minutes. Avoid inhaling bleach or contact with skin. aWipe treated spills with paper towels and place paper towels in a plastic bag before putting them in the trash. aApply the bleach solution to all surfaces and equipment again, and let stand for 30 minutes and rinse. aWash all detoxified counters, containers, equipment, clothing, etc. aDiscard gloves when cleaning process is complete.

I just finished a kitchen project and narrowly (very narrowly) avoided two major mistakes during the project. Thankfully, I was able to put some elbow grease into getting out of two things that would have bugged me forever 1) After the kitchen was designed, ordered, delivered and cabinets were being installed, I noticed that sure enough, the fridge surround cabinet (deeper counter depth) partially blocked one of the pocket lights in the ceiling. I have an 8" ceiling and the cabinet went all the way to the ceiling. It would have rendered the light not only unusable, but impossible to change the light bulb. When I asked the kitchen planner, his response "Why didn't you measure everything and tell us about this earlier!"?? I thought this was his job. Had to make an emergency trip to get a different fridge top cabinet that was inset in line with the upper cabinets. It changed the design a bit, but my fridge is so deep, it was sticking out way too much from the deeper cabinet anyway, which would have looked worse than the regular upper cabinet above the fridge. Atleast the light is open. 2) The night before the backsplash install, I casually notice that since I changed some of the dimensions (went from a 30" drop in cooktop to a 36" slide in range top, now I had a GFI outlet that would end up smack dab behind the middle of the range top. Since I was getting a bluestar with open burners, immediately my mind went to the fictional horror scene of melting outlet and electrical fires, not to mention it was going to look ugly. Of course, once the backsplash tile went up, it would be nearly impossible to change it. I got into gear and opened up part of the wall, re-ran the electrical cable (got a little lucky since the stud spacing was just right), and was able to move the GFI to (barely) out of the way of the cooktop. The dry wall mud was barely dry by the time the installer started putting up the tile. In the end, it worked out really well. Can't complain. *picture of the GFI issue attached :) Imagine the GFI about 12-18 inches to the left*

It shouldn't be that big of a deal, unless I really misunderstood what I've read along the way. The back of the cabinet would have to be cut to access the wall. The wall would have to be cut to access the pipe. The pipe would have to be changed to the right height. Then patch wall. Not sure if the cabinet can be patched or not, but it won't really be visible. I'm sure it's not an easy space to work in, which is probably more the issue. I'd ask him what dimensions, if any, would work. Then if you can find one that you like that fits, problem solved. If you can't find one that fits and you like, I think it's on him to make the plumbing right if he knew you wanted a GD and had a 10 inch sink. If he was not aware of either of those things, whoever should have told him shoukd share the cost.

Fortunately, no. Starter is just fertilizer higher in phosphorus than others, and lower in nitrogen. It's not radiant in its toxicity or anything. It's not going to stop rooting--it should encourage it, even if flushed, as phosphorus doesn't flush easily but also binds pretty well and pretty firmly. And it was installed below the root layer. And once flushed, that nitrogen is gone. While avoiding application until post-rooting, it's hardly necessary to abolish feeding for a year. In fact, it's detrimental to the new sod to deny it proper feeding as we've just flushed resources from the soil. Regrettably, we did just dump the N into the groundwater, but...well, the Spousal Unit is to blame here. Post a month, however, there won't be anything left after any decent flushing (and in Florida, that's probably going to happen with or without our help; with our help, however, there was some hope of avoiding a burn; without it, it still might have worked out in a sandy soil and Florida's typically rainy spring weather). I'd stick to something organic--or at least more gentle--with new sod for the first feeding in a month or so, but at that point, yes. It's going to want a light breakfast. Just not anything with excessive phosphorus. There's a full pound bound into the sand down below, waiting. :-) But P availability is never that high anyway, even at the best of times. A soil test might be in order, eventually, but isn't critical at this particular instant. For now, simply avoid phosphorus sources. Me? My soil rides at 1,000 PPM phosphorus--five times normal--in the gardens. And about double in the lawn. There are no problems caused by this, but I avoid adding anything additional and use high-nitrogen sources of food. There's no reason to panic. Just flush the soil and hope for the best with your new sod. And educate the husband before you allow him to lay new sod again. Or double-check his work...