Hi Francesco. Regarding my fertiliser, after having used different ferts for several years and subjecting my small collection to the effects of not using better ones I was directed to Try Chempak8 by another UK grower who sang its praises. Since being converted from Tomorite, Phostrogen and several other regular types, this one has improved my plants in leaps and bounds. In this current season it appears to have solved the unsightly corky midribs and thick, small leathery leaves on my arabicums whilst (I will also accredit this next fact to it) causing me to see flowers mature and open fully on two plants. Nothing else has changed so I assume it's the fert switch that's altered them. One had never had flowers before, the other had buds three years in succession, but always aborted them in the bud stage.Growth on all plants has been good with more branch extension and lush healthy leaves. I'll continue with the Chempak8 from now on. It's NPk ratio is 12.5:25:25+ trace elements. Lots of our US counterparts advocate the use of a Dynagro product which has a similar ratio as far as I'm aware? Hopefully others will confirm info regarding the Dynagro. I'll post a pic so you can see the makeup of the fert I'm using. In lots of the ferts that I was using over the years, the Nitrogen content was too high and that combined with the fact that other essential TE's were absent, the imbalance was causing my plants to not do their best overall. Gill

You are kind of approaching this backwards. Decide on the type of plant you want and then determine how large a container you will need to accommodate it. Most ornamental grasses are not evergreen and will need to be cut back annually to allow for new growth. So you will need to be prepared to go without your privacy screening for several months each year. Grasses also expand outwardly and need to be rejuvenated by division on a pretty frequent basis, which is also something else to keep in mind. I seldom leave OG's in a container for more than a single growing season as they just get too darn big to shift easily!! Something like an aborvitae/thuja may work better but will also require a larger container. I'd figure at least a 10G container per tree to start, so about 16" across and about the same depth. And that will only work for a couple of seasons as well. You will need to lift the tree and root prune periodically and refresh the potting soil......about every 3 years.

I was able to brighten your picture in a photo editor and see the striping; nothing ruled out a honeybee. You have an interesting speculation about the bees and earthquakes, but the only thing commonly posted on the Internet is ant's reactions to quakes, but I would guess ants would react to any ground movements. After reading the article you linked to above, it would seem the bees are having a reaction to hive damage and bee tenders disrupted feedings. Volcanoes would likely have a similar effect. Individual bees would then scout around for a better location.

Maria Elena, long time no see as they say....I popped onto another group on here to ask a question and decided to drop by onto Adeniums to see if anyone from the ‘good old days‘ were still here. Im so very sorry to read your news, I know exactly what you’re going through 😔, sending you a big virtual hug from the U.K. 🤗😘 Your beautiful mum will now live on in your very own Adenium! How lovely they both look. I remember the tales you told of your mum as you cared for her, the singing and the plants she loved to look after in the garden. Take care, Gill xx