A partial solution could be to attach flannel interlining between the drape and the lining. This will give the drape a fuller appearance. For a complete solution you could sew two panels together (or have someone do it for you) and then attach flannel interlining. I like the bamboo idea too, I think they look great! Depending on how much energy you want to invest, maybe combine both elements (blinds and interlined drapes).

Drill the top frame near the latch side with a 1" forstner bit from the top to about 1/8" from going thru. Use of a positive drill stop is highly recomended. glue in a 1" dia X 1" long NC40 or better neodium magnet. At a matching location in the top of the door, drill a 1/2" X 1 1/4" deep hole. glue in a 1/2" dia X 1" long NC40 neodium magnet flush with the top of the door. MAKE SURE IT IS OPOSITE POLARITY FROM THE FRAME MAGNET. This makes a "no touch" "no show" latch that will gently pull the door closed from 1 to 2" but will have no effect on the door staying full open. The large magnet is needed because of the distance (1/8" wood + 1/8" door clearance). The Range of a magnet is roughly proportional to it's size. This same magnet would require a 50-75# pull to open the door if the magnets were touching. I just used this on a double door. The pull required to open the door is less than 5# (guesstimate). If you want stronger double up on the magnets. I wouldn't recomend larger magnets, they can get real nasty to handle.

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The 3 other ones are from 5 feet tall to 7 feet tall are what I think are native Balsam Firs. ==>> then we probably know what the deer wont bother .. too soon to tell on the one you just planted ... the gutter is just.. to cut to the brutal.. ugly ... i know why they did it .. so water flowed down the driveway ... but you could figure something out to extend a drain out from the upper corner.. so it discharges down the driveway further away ... not on you uphill foundation .. its just an aesthetic for some weekend when you have nothing else to do.. and feel like digging in mother earth to bury a drain pipe ... i also agree .... in my freezing MI ... your view is in summer.. and you have no problem ... due to the deciduous trees ... and in winter.. i mostly keep my drapes drawn ... to reduce the hours i hear the furnace blasting ... usually shears to let in filtered light ... and heavier for night time ... i dont even have anyone to see into my house anymore.. but the shears are drawn for the heat retention .... not sure thats all requisite in your clime.. but that is what many if not most of us do ... then spring rolls around.. the shears are drawn.. the windows are thrown open.. and we begin the next summer cycle as the trees leaf out ... it normal ... all that said.. planting the solution.. and giving them the requisite years they will need ... is your only solution... short of the old 'checkbook problem solving' ... btw ... it is said... a root mass is twice the volume of the tree you see above ... huge BB transplants have most of their roots cut off.. to move them to the site ... and will take years to regrow that root mass .. with reduced growth above until re-established ... it is suggested.. smaller transplants will grow the mature root mass faster.. and ultimately out grow the huge transplant in 5 to 10 years .. so on some level ... it is not cost efficient to go huge ... again.. right back to time versus money .... also ... and i hope finally... all trees are full sun plants .. some of which can tolerate less than full sun .. they dont die .... they just have a reduced annual growth rate.. and are usually whispier.. for lack of a better term ... which means everything above.. just takes longer ... ken