Reset your user preferences to the default values by using Firefox Safe Mode. This will rebuild the prefs.js file from program defaults, the same as if you manually deleted the file. It will not reset any preferences stored in the user.js file, if one exists. Exit Firefox completely Start Firefox in Safe Mode. The "Firefox Safe Mode" window will appear with some troubleshooting options, Select the option, Reset all user preferences to Firefox defaults. Click the button, Make Changes and Restart. FF - prefs.js: browser.startup.homepage - hxxp://z1.invisionfree.com/IBBS_ComputerHelp/index.php? Not what that is above! Are you. FF - prefs.js: keyword.URL - hxxp://yandex.ru/yandsearch?stype=first&clid=1855511&text= Start firefox in safe mode ---->http://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/Safe%20Mode

ML, I have had no experience whatsoever with subways. I read about them being traditional, but have never seen them in anything but a modern setting in person, unless they were in an actual subway. That may be because I have only ever been in 1950s and newer houses with tile! To me they feel modern and very "in" and overused. I figured they have to go "out" sooner or later! However, I do respect your opinion. I thank you for your insight. I had not thought of whether the 6x6 effect looked MCM or not. The sink definitely has a pre-MCM vibe, as do the med cabinets. I suppose the lights do, too. And the dresser is definitely older. So square tiles came along in the MCM era, huh? Bummer. I avoided 4x4 tiles because that is what my 1978 home already has, I thought that by going bigger, I would avoid the era. Phooey. So I need to do subways to be in a 1940s and earlier vibe? Okay. Is the 4 x 6 you suggested more period than the 3 x 6 that are so easy to find everywhere now? BTW, as time passes, I am more and more inclined to go with the Carrara-looking trim, rather than the black. Then there is a part of me that says that I like color too much and that it is just hanging out on-line that has gotten me loving the Carrara look (because it is so loved on the kitchen forum and bath forum). I also am drooling over a mother-of-pearl tile to use as a listello between two rows of Carrara. Then again, if a beauteous tile becomes available for a great price on Craigslist, all bets are off on color! I am considering heating the floor. It will also help it to dry if it gets wet splash-over from the shower. Things like Carrara-looking tile and heated floors became more of an option when my SSDI came through. The Swanstone ADA floor with the trench drain is so new that I have not found a picture of a real consumer using it. The link below will take you to a PDF that shows the new shower floor and wall system. The shower floor is on the cover, but it does not show the whole shower. I will be getting the New Construction floor because we have to pull up the subfloor due to rot. I will get the 96" walls seen on the right on page 8/9, but in the color "Ice" or "Glacier". "Ice" is shown below, it is the closest they have to Carrara. "Glacier" is just white, but the surface looks like snowflakes, sort of. The shower looks way too skinny, but I keep telling myself that the shower looks skinny because of the drain taking some of the floorspace. It will be the same size as the bathtub, without the bathtub sides getting in the way of my feet. I keep saying that, but it sure looks skinny! That is why the floor outside the shower will be as water-proof as a shower would be. Here is a link that might be useful: Swan Shower PDF see Page 8/9

Thanks Sophie.. lol. I was telling my wife about you this morning on the way to work. I agree, the quality is not there at all. Now, I DO take into consideration that if we had bought a house vs building, we would probably have crappy stock cabinets, but, at the very least colors should match, doors should line up, holes should not be present, shaker means shaker.. i.e. I had to tell them the top drawers CAN and should have been done in shaker style as that is what we paid for. I doubt this is a 35-50k job though, so I should not expect perfection, but there should be a level standard of quality. The direction of the paint is not a huge issue with me, but will be part of what we discuss as well. My problem is being down a foot so just getting TO the dang kitchen to handle all of this during daylight is tough, so a slow process. Anyways, thanks for all your great insight. I im'd them and told them we are drawing a line in the sand and expect to get what we paid for, period. I do not care if I have to move out of the apartment and stay in a dang hotel for a month, so be it. We are going to get what we paid for. It may not be near as nice of a paint job as one might get from a $50k dollar job, but it will be good acceptable quality, and meet the promises made when we agreed to all of this two years ago. I may sound grumpy.. but I really do appreciate all the input. Thanks guys. R

Guys, I need a little assistance figuring out what options I have. I have a deck going in. I am not sure how to make this roof work without cluttering the deck with posts. I am willing to buy what I need, just need to figure out what that is. I will post some pictures, ask anything ya like if I am not clear. First off, I have the bottom of the deck pretty well figured out. Here are the approximate bottom deck post placements, i.e. under the deck. These are all 6x6 treated lumber buried at least 36" deep with concrete. They are spaced no further than 8 feet apart. The OUTSIDE ones (green ones) are not 6x6. Those are 14-ish foot tall stripped cedar trunks that I will notch at the deck level about 1-2 inches. They should be about 12" thick at that point so will have plenty and I will place a dual 2x8 beam in that notch. ALL the beams are 2x8's All the joists are 2x6's and are spaced 18" on center and held by joist holders, not just toe-nailed. All are screwed in. Ignore that one cross board at the 1/3 mark.. I am not a great artist.. heh. This will have 2 beams made up of dual 2x8's and staggered 61' across. Each post will have a 4x bracket holding the beam in place. Along the wall, there will be a header board lagged into the slab in that middle section and the left section. I will then probably do 1x6x12 red cedar on top of all of that. NOW.. the hard part. The roof. I plan to notch and create a double 2x6 beam on top of the outer cedar posts and hole that in by notching and lagging or bolting it. The real issue is, the garage side sets the depth at 15-16 ft. If I square it off, the center part is about 18ft. I am not sure what I can use to span that. I planned to use 6x6 posts as shown in the same places as the bottom spots, and add a dual 2x6 beam structure along the top with 4x brackets screwed into the top of those and the beam laying inside that. I am not sure how stable that will be. I also am not sure if I can span that center section by using LVL and laying it across the top of both beams. Ideas? Does it make sense? We really do not get ice much down here, although it has happened in the past. I was thinking a 12/1 or 12/2 slope? I think 12/3 may be a bit much. I can use whatever for the roof. I was thinking of using radiant barrier 4x8s and then felt and shingles to match the house but can just as easily use a max rib metal roof. Open to ideas. I also planned to hang 2 or 3 fans..and some led lights, nothing major. Thanks for any tips. Most my roofs were 16" deep, never ran one 18-18.5 Russ