How do I propagate a leafless yellowstone rhizome?
akrrm (Nancy in NJ 7a)
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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akrrm (Nancy in NJ 7a)
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Pothos Rescue - Enormous & leafless
Comments (6)Well, Babyg, I'm not one of the "wise growers," but have been over this ground with another grandmother, "Phyllis." (Her previous owner christened her, thinking she was a philodendron.) If the vines are still Green, you may be able to propagate a number of new plants from them. When plants like this are stressed, their last efforts go toward survival. 1)Can I save the long leafless limbs? Will a long leafless limb regrow leaves or should I cut it back? Cut the limbs a couple of nodes from the main plant and put immediately into water for now. If they already have been cut and you would like to try to retrieve them, make a fresh cut (about 3 inches up from the original cut) and immediately stand them in a glass of room temp water. Be sure that you are putting the "down" ends of the vines in the water (This sounds like a "Duh," but it can be confusing.) Your instincts about avoiding the stress of repotting are good ones, but after so long a time of neglect by the former owner, the old soil is probably "used up" and full of accumulated salts. As Greenhouser suggested, a trimming of dead roots and repotting in a loose, fresh soil should jump start regrowth. Avoid fertilizer and, after initial thorough watering, water only when surface is completely dry. Pothos should never stand in water. "3) Is each of those limbs technically a different plant, each from a separate cutting?" They may or may not be distinct plants, but attempting to divide the main plant and its very entwined roots would be very stressful. You can make that decision when Grandma smiles up at you in her new clothes. :) "4) If she is going to lose the limbs, or some of them, is there any way to put them to good use? (E.g. Can you make cuttings without leaves? Is there any advantage to giving a cutting with one leaf, several nodes, say ten to 12 of them?)" With or without leaves, this can be done, and success depends a lot on the plant and how much life is left in the vine. You can try to start them in water or in soil--or you can set up your own experiment and try both. Whatever you choose to do, put each cutting immediately in water, until your soil is ready (if you are going to use soil). You may want to treat leafy cuttings separately from the bare ones. Keep careful track of which end of each cutting should go up and which end goes down into the water (or soil). Judging by how long the interval is between nodes, make your cuttings with four to five nodes each. Active chlorophyll in a slightly longer green stem should be helpful. The bottom part, which will go into the soil (or water) will benefit from the support of two rooted nodes. Once you have a stable growing plant, you can always trim off any excess from the top of the cutting. Place water cuttings out of direct sunlight, in fairly low light, but where you can monitor them. Change water every three days or so by overflowing with cool room temp water and gently pouring excess to the right level (keeping two nodes under water). When the first roots branch, prepare a loose, light soil and gently plant two or three cuttings per small pot. Alternatively, you can prepare soil and stick three, or so, unrooted cuttings in each pot. Soil needs to be barely moist, but not wet (and not standing in water), until you see signs of green growth; then you can back off of water, gradually. Maintain both the cuttings and the recovering Grandma plant in medium to low indirect light, as above, and avoid fertilizer until recovery is complete and several leaves are established. Along the way, if a cutting loses its green with no sign of roots or leaf budding, it's not going to grow and you can throw it away. On the other hand, some of them may grow into new little Pothos. Please let us know how it goes. SC...See Morehelp! leafless orchid question
Comments (19)Whitecat, You are right, the orchids in the Chilo. family generally likes to dry out between watering. I think your Chilo can take such long periods between watering because of the Sphagnum moss that it is mounted on. Where Altair & I bought ours from, it is mounted on a cork plaque with no moss under it. It dries out pretty quickly without the sphagnum moss holding the extra moisture close to the roots, so it needs the extra water every day (at least for me). I love those cute flowers! I was looking on IOPSE to see if I could find out what region they come from to get a better idea about their climate (to see if they happen to be native to a drier region) & was not able to find this specific species of Chilo. So I did a search & found that it is actually considered a Taeniophyllum (at least on IOPSE it is). After comparing your photos, it looks most like Taeniophyllum biocellatum. I am sure there is some diffrence between this one & yours, but the flowers, inflorescence length, successive blooming, etc. seem to be right in line with how you have described yours. If you decide to order a Chilo. Viridiflava for the scent, get it from Botanica Ltd. & make sure to ask for one with chocolate scented parents. She told me they have two different sets, one set had the fragrance, the other didn't. I am going to have to contact Oakhill & see if they still have any of these, I like those little flowers with the two circles in the middle. Thanks for making me buy another plant =0). -Ray-...See Moreleafless back-bulbs -questions
Comments (31)Thanks, I'm not worried. Nice analogy Brooke. I never expected roots on the main bulbs, but was hoping something would start on the baby bulb. I posted about this because Richard was talking about not watering and leaving the main bulbs until roots appear. I thought he might have a secret about getting those going. I do think the sphag stirred the eye and got the growth going. Could be wrong, but it didn't do a thing all summer sitting in dry tree fern. This bulb was a challenge from an old-timer at my OS. He wanted it put in a zip-lock bag and I disagreed. I got the growths, but not the roots. I've got 3 weeks before the next meeting. Jane...See MorePropagating bamboo - I think it worked!
Comments (12)Cactus_joe, It will be interesting to see how your experiment progresses. I have heard of people rooting and growing individual culms from runners but new rhizomes never formed. I tried to see if there were any rhizomes, or new shoots that did not originate from the original culm/rhizomes as branches, but could not be sure. Do you have new rhizomes or shoots? I have tried feeding adventurous rhizomes into the bottom side hole of pots and it has worked for smaller bamboo but with new larger rhizomes from S. fastuosa, Ph. vivax, and Ph. nigra 'henon' they died and rotted. In any case good luck and let us know how it works out. Mike near Brenham TX...See Moreakrrm (Nancy in NJ 7a)
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