Great timing with your question katy lou, as I'm about to order my KA this week and need to decide between 72" or 69.5" models (SxS due to right wall restriction). I have 36" w x 27" d x 72"h space for the refrigerator planned, including the amount needed for top ventilation. I'd like to switch to a 72" h KA but can stay with 691/2"KA or other model at 70" if the top 24" cab can't be raised a little. Above the refrigerator cabinet is base moulding into which the tall crown moulding is attached, then up to ceiling of 102". I wonder if the installers can up the cabinet a 1/2" and adjust the crown a tad lower as it attaches to the base moulding. Have questions in to GC/cabinet builder. Surprisingly, I see only pictures on the KA install manuals, not a lot about venting requirements.

All of you are so fantastic-- I seriously don't know what we'd do without the help of this forum. It certainly wouldn't be a DIY project, and we'd be spending twice as much to get a kitchen half as good! So THANK YOU all for the time and consideration you put into answering questions. After reading through these posts, I'm convinced to go with a full-size fridge. I just can't stomach paying more for something smaller, and as sue pointed out, I think a CD could backfire worse if a family moved in and needed more fridge space. FWIW, I live in a mature, gated, lake community with homes from 30-years-old to brand new, and $150K to $700K. Pretty eclectic! We live in one of the least expensive homes-- 3 beds, 2 baths, built in '94, with one of the biggest yards in the neighborhood. It has fantastic resale potential, but my hideous kitchen (posted it several months ago but can't find the post) it white linoleum with really odd/crappy white cabinets, white laminate countertops, and brass hardware. Awful layout. In my size home in this community, our potential buyers could be anywhere from a retired couple looking to downsize to a young military couple with one or two children. So even though we don't necessarily need the fridge space, the next people might! wa8b: the layout issue you mentioned is certainly a potential problem as far as traffic flow. Behind the peninsula is a dining area, and to the left of the fridge/pantries in my drawing is the living room entrance. We were originally trying to keep the appliances situation close to where they are now to avoid added costs, but now that we've decided to stick with an electric range (even though we'd rather have gas), the potential to easily move the non-outside-venting range is definitely an option. However, my drawing represents where the stove and sink are currently located, and I've never had much of a problem traversing the 7.5' of space... Also, I like the idea of keeping the drawer bases for pots and pans on either side of the stove. But maybe I should referse the fridge/pantries and the stove/counters. The room would be more open when walking in, and the stove wouldn't be right next to the garage door. I'll probably post a separate thread about layout to discuss this... caryscott and raehelen, thank you so so much for the photos and drawings! It helps a great deal to see my potential options. caryscott, I can see that a non-CD fridge does not stick out that far, and the gray sides definitely make a difference. For those of you who described the logistics of recessing the fridge into the wall, thank you so much! This MIGHT be a possibility-- we'll see how comfortable DH is with the idea. :) Again, you've all given me a lot to think about-- I really appreciate all of the feedback! Katie

We just installed our kitchen aid counter depth frige. It does not have counters next to it but rather pantry style cabinetry (which are standard depth). It looks like it sticks out about an inch or slightly less than I want it too (not the doors or the handles but the body of the frige). Once the doors of the cabinets are installed it shouldn't be as noticeable. My cabinet guy did recomend to notch out some of the sheetrock in the back of the frige where the plug is (because the stiff cords are preventing the fridge from going all the way back) and it should fit even better. The kitchen aid frige we have is model KFCS22EVMSO.

Refrigerator carcass/box depth is only part of the story when determining the depth of a refrigerator and its impact on an aisle. You need to measure the full depth - including: (1) Box + Doors + Handles (2) Amount of space you will have behind the refrigerator for air circulation, power outlet + plug, and water line (if you have a water spigot and/or an icemaker). From my experience, CDs need less recommended air circulation than standard depths. Check the refrigerator's specs for the minimum recommended - but be aware that your installation may need more space, depending on your setup (e.g., do you need more space for the plug or water line than is recommended in the specs?) As Lisa mentioned, you need to measure from the handles when determining the aisle width and you need to determine how busy that aisle will be. You also need to take into account what is in front of the refrigerator - is the Prep Zone in front of the refrigerator? the Cooking Zone? If the Prep or Cooking Zone is directly in front or it is in any way "shared" work space, you will need more space in that aisle. So, measure from the refrigerator's handles to the counter edge of an island/peninsula or whatever is in front of the refrigerator, determine what you will have directly across from the refrigerator, and determine how busy that aisle will be.