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How counter depth is your counter depth refrigerator?

13 years ago

OK, I realize that my question may not be very clear. What I'd like to know is how much does your fridge protrude past the counter (not including handles)? Also, I'm assuming that you have a regular depth counter.

I've been doing a little research and counter depth refrigerators are usually between 24-27". So is your fridge actually flush with the counter?

I've been eyeing a Kitchenaid FD CD and specs say the depth is 26 7/8"

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Comments (3)

megpie77
13 years ago
We just installed our kitchen aid counter depth frige. It does not have counters next to it but rather pantry style cabinetry (which are standard depth). It looks like it sticks out about an inch or slightly less than I want it too (not the doors or the handles but the body of the frige). Once the doors of the cabinets are installed it shouldn't be as noticeable. My cabinet guy did recomend to notch out some of the sheetrock in the back of the frige where the plug is (because the stiff cords are preventing the fridge from going all the way back) and it should fit even better. The kitchen aid frige we have is model KFCS22EVMSO.
palimpsest
13 years ago
"Counter depth" generally means that the refrigerator cabinet without the doors is about 24" and the entire depth of the doors will stick out past the face of the cabinets --and they generally need this because the way the door hinges needs to have some room on the sides...so with the door thickness it may be up to about 27"

True counter depth means everything, doors and all, can be set flush to the 24" front face of cabinets. They are usually less than 24" deep to allow for the thickness of a custom panel and variations between overlay and inset doors (If it is a custom panel door).
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Our fridge went in a spot where one side was flush with a built-in pantry, and the other side was adjacent to the range-wall cabinets (base cabinets only). We were stuck with the depth of the pantry, which left a little bit of the side of the fridge showing. So we pulled out the base cabinets on the other side to match. We initially planned to put a panel there, but the dimensions weren't workable with our stock (IKEA) cabinet components, and we didn't want to spend the $$ on custom. So then I hit on the idea of building a wall to box the fridge in an alcove. It meant losing about 6" of base cabinet, but it fit the modern look of the house, nicely isolated the over-fridge cabinet (the only upper in the kitchen), and looked super-custom. DH and I built and finished the wall. We made it the same thickness as the wall on the other side for the sake of symmetry. Before: After: considered putting in a panel on the other side
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How deep is the Case of the refrigerator? That is meant to line up with the edge of the counters typically so the doors stand in front of the counter edge and have room to swing without impingement on the countertop. You may need to pull this forward to have adequate doorswing. Do they make a model that has a case of about 28" with door thickness adding a few inches bringing it to 32 or so? The other issue that you should check is that counterdepth need significantly less airspace around them, because they are insulated and ventilated a bit differently than a full depth fridge.
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Comments (26)
Thanks for the measurements, antiquesilver. Lots of good ideas here. I really wish we could recess it, but that is just not possible in our house. However some nice DIYer will read this post and learn from our inattention to detail. This is just not like us...We sweat all the details, but this one just passed us by. Too much going on with a toddler and a baby! We currently have a old "Kenmore 20" (as in 20 years old and probably 20 cubic feet). We are going to play around with that and the cabinets when we install to see what will work for us. On the positive side, at least I wont be downsizing if we decide on a counter-depth frig bc most of them are about 20 cubic feet anyway!
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I too have the same concern, we did Thermador integrated panel ready, the contractor has part of the box constructed and the framing for the fridge is flush with the lower cabinet, the fridge is at the end of a 36 inch cabinet/counter run, and I'm worried that the countertop is going to stick out past the panel fridge doors? We really wanted that seamless look, but I'm worried our cabinet guy didn't factor in clearance for the counter overhang? will it look weird for the countertop do be proud of the panel fridge door, or will the panel/door hinge help factor in that 3/4 inch of countertop, I'm fine if it's flush, but I'm worried it won't be? The fridge is the end piece on that wall, so it might not look weird...but??? Any advice? Worst case scenario we make them redo the framing for the fridge to be flush with counter?
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weissman
13 years ago
Only built-in fridges will be truly counterdepth - they have special hinges that work properly. As was pointed out above, the doors on regular "counter-depth" fridges will protude beyond the counters. Personally I think this is a bit of a rip-off since you're paying a good bit extra for less storage space but many people think it's worth it particularly when your fridge is in the middle of a run of cabinets. I have a full-depth fridge at the end of a run of cabinets and I'm happy with how it looks.

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