Counter Depth vs Non Counter Depth Fridge

8 years ago

We are looking at refrigerators. again, on Consumer Reports the non Counter Depth ones have much higher ratings, than Counter Depth. We have a thin kitchen- 6 inches makes the space from cabinet/fridge to peninsula 3.5 instead of 4 feet. Do we go with quality/fridge space or looks/room openness? Help!

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Sombreuil

8 years ago

I have a CD french door fridge, and others have observed that without the extra 4" of depth, you tend to be very selective about what you save in the way-back area, just for survival. Mine is less cluttered with stuff that needs to be thrown out anyway (like that last ounce or two of plum chutney from 2011, or the third open bottle of A-1 steak sauce).
Casey

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Comments (8)

funkycamper
8 years ago
Can we you recess your fridge into the wall so it just looks counter-depth?
elphaba
8 years ago
3.5 feet is 41 inches and will give enough aisle space IMO. If I understand you correctly, this is what you would have if you buy the non-counter depth? I have less and it is fine. I worried about this quite a bit and am amazed how it is a non problem for us at 38 inches. Our fridge is separated from the island by this aisle which doesn't meet kitchen code guidelines but is just fine, more than fine.
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I have what KristianCO has, but without the wine slots in between. At least at the time, that required ordering a panel that goes between them -- an insulation panel, I think? She mentioned the ice -- another reason I liked the Thermador over the SZ. The SZ had the ice down at the bottom, nearly on the floor. That just doesn't work for all the ice we can use here in Texas. Fori, it's not having a second fridge to make up for the failures of the first one. People who spend $3 million on a house as well as the guest who walk into one expect a certain lifestyle to go with it. Even if they don't cook, they probably entertain. If they don't entertain, they want to look like they do -- or at least they could. In my area, people look for a space for a second fridge in homes by the time they hit $250-350K. By $1 mil, they expect a second fridge regardless of how big the one in the main kitchen is. Beverage fridge somewhere in the house or in an outdoor kitchen is probably also desired if not expected. I've seen homes below $1 mil (at the time) that had built-in fridge, second fridge space in the utility, a wine fridge and a small beverage fridge in the master suite. Those homes are probably between $1 mil and $2 mil now, but they give a clue what folks look for when they reach a certain price point. Yes, you can design for change and tear out a pantry, assuming you also left the upper clearance, and maybe it won't make a mess of flooring and cabinets, but in a $3 mil home, I don't think you are going to save a lot of money in the long run. First, you have to plan the layout to include a tall pantry and cabinet above the fridge that would be lost or have a 12" or greater opening and dress that off. That would all be lost when changing the fridge and you could have the cost of cutting down the above fridge cabinet and doors or a new cabinet. All the crown on that wall will probably need to be removed to change the upper cabinet. Your toe kicks will have to be removed and adjusted. Not a big deal, but another detail. And if any of these trim pieces split when being removed, you have to match trim and finish. This won't break the bank for anyone living in a $3 mill plus home, but it is enough that you can see the savings may be negligible or non-existent. Not to mention that after suffering through an entire build out, the last thing you will want to do is any reno any time in the reasonably foreseeable future. Most folks are exhausted well before the build is done. Ok to do it - but be honest with yourself about the cost, especially if you are not a DIYer.
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Nothing Left to Say
8 years ago
Check the dimensions carefully on the counter depth models. The one our GC suggested is actually 27 inches deep. Since our current, relatively new, refrigerator is only 29 inches deep, we decided that for two inches difference we would save $1,200.
zwizzle1
8 years ago
I assume you want a full depth refrigerator for the space and not because of the reviews on CR and that's fine. I don't find the reviews on CR to be that helpful or a good diagnostic of what my experience is or has been. If space is not that critical, then keep in mind that some items get lost in the larger fridge. I had a Fisher Paykel counter depth refrigerator with no ice-maker that was amazing in the amount of stuff I could store and find! It kept even temp. and was so quiet I sometimes had to open the door to see if it was running. I'm not pushing the brand, just saying that I think there are "quality" counter depth fridges available.
weedmeister
8 years ago
You need to check the carcass depth (depth without the doors). Sometimes this is 24", sometimes more. You also need to be aware of how the door swings and how much swing you need to fully open/remove any drawers, and how this will affect the counter overhang or walls next to the fridge.

CR gives you a baseline for comparison. I only tend to look at power consumption and noise.
lisa_a
8 years ago
All good points made above.

Another thing to keep in mind if you choose a full-depth fridge is whether you'll have enough room to maneuver the fridge in and out of its spot, which you'd need to do should it need service. That should be doable with a 42" aisle (3.5 feet) provided that measurement is counter to fridge door (even better, to fridge handles) and not fridge cab box to cabs opposite the fridge.

It will also depend on how busy this aisle area is. Is it the only way in and out of your kitchen? If so, that area could become a bottleneck and a few extra inches would help ease that.

Have you posted your lay-out for feedback and suggestions?

btw, I have a CD French door fridge. Love it! As Casey pointed out, you don't lose stuff in the back of a CD fridge unlike a standard depth fridge only to discover it after it's no longer edible.
Buehl
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Refrigerator carcass/box depth is only part of the story when determining the depth of a refrigerator and its impact on an aisle. You need to measure the full depth - including:

(1) Box + Doors + Handles

(2) Amount of space you will have behind the refrigerator for air circulation, power outlet + plug, and water line (if you have a water spigot and/or an icemaker).

From my experience, CDs need less recommended air circulation than standard depths. Check the refrigerator's specs for the minimum recommended - but be aware that your installation may need more space, depending on your setup (e.g., do you need more space for the plug or water line than is recommended in the specs?)

As Lisa mentioned, you need to measure from the handles when determining the aisle width and you need to determine how busy that aisle will be. You also need to take into account what is in front of the refrigerator - is the Prep Zone in front of the refrigerator? the Cooking Zone? If the Prep or Cooking Zone is directly in front or it is in any way "shared" work space, you will need more space in that aisle.

So, measure from the refrigerator's handles to the counter edge of an island/peninsula or whatever is in front of the refrigerator, determine what you will have directly across from the refrigerator, and determine how busy that aisle will be.

Counter Depth vs Non Counter Depth Fridge

Sombreuil

Comments (8)

funkycamper

elphaba

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