In #1 you really need to consider headering, support for the header, milling the studs to conform to lath deformation caused by tile masonry base coat. 2) "I have a situation" To quote Dave Hester YUUUP "Both doors would need to slide to the same side and could either be enclosed in a pocket or left visible." If you are building a pocket in the room, why do you need two doors? If the pocket is in another room or outside the building envelope, how is it going to be encased or wether protected?

You'll find that any method used, which mitigates the potential of damage to the dining room wall, will be expensive, may be the deciding factor and you'll be hard pressed to find a contractor who can legitimately say there will be no damage to the dining room side. This is the method that I have employed on several occasions, and keep in mind that these are full 2" x 4" stud walls. I used a 2x4 pocket door jamb amended to fit. The plaster and lath is carefully removed about 10" up from the floor. Metal brackets are attached to the studs at the bottom plate to add additional vibration damping, and the plaster and lathing removal is then completed. Metal brackets are added at the top plates. The nails are cut and the diagonal bracing is carefully removed. With the depth of cut set at 2-7/8" I use a beam saw to cut the studs for the top of the header height.(The wall may not be "load bering" but it's still weight loaded). Using a 4" grinder with a masonry blade, the plaster which has penetrated the lath is removed adjacent to the studs to allow clear passage of the table of a cordless skill saw to pass unobstructed. The DEWALT that I use is 1-1/8" table edge to blade. The studs affected are then ripped from the header cut to the bottom. The metal brackets are removed, individually, and using a sawzall blade with least kerf, the cut is completed. This DOES NOT affect the lath attachment on the opposing side. The nails attaching the bottom plate to the floor joists are removed and the bottom plate is attached in the 1-1/8" area that will remain. The bottom plate is cut and removed and depending upon the height of your existing door, filler is added or additional floor sheeting removed for the placement of the new jamb. If it's your decision to retain the aesthetics of a cased opening, the jamb will need to be amended to fit. The header and framing is set and the amended jamb is installed. With the jamb set, square and aligned, pre-drill the horizontal 1x slats in the jamb and attach to the dining room studs, further stabilizing them. A flat 2x4 is added to the side of the top plates on the kitchen side. A 2x4 is ripped to create a 5-1/2" wall thickness for the bottom plate and nailed in place. 2x6's are then ripped, installed and they are similarly attached to the jamb. The rock lath secured with screws and the gypsum plaster applied.

The take down of wall and pocket door frame was a no brainer....even with the mess. This old lady did it in 4 hours. An added bonus was finding two 2X4s on both sides of the opening that the frame was attached to. More wall supprt than expected. My friend was right, the frame was nothing more than an insert with no supporting factor. There are 2 short pieces of oak flooring needed where the wall existed and have to insert these before trim. Lucky catch at Restore/Habitat, they have some oak flooring which are already finished and match existing floor to do this. Also thinking of creating an arch to match the one in living rooom, but dependant upon my motivation during the final steps. What a difference in the layout, there is so much more light and both rooms look much larger. The kitchen is an L Shape with one full wall not being used. Before enlarging the opening there didn't seem to be enough room to utilize this wall. Now it feels like I have enough area to add a table and chairs if wanted and can see more possibilities in the kitchen layout. A separate post needed for suggestions on what to do with what I've done.

I would also recommend exploring other more usual sources of odor in old houses than dry studs. I have never heard of dry plaster having a smell. For example, wax rings around toilets will need to be replaced periodically and may cause toilet water slow leaks around the toilets. Also, drain pipes in areas with low use may have the p trap dried out, allowing sewer gas to pervade the house. This is a general bad smell that is hard to source. I have 2 laundry areas, one of which is not in use now and the trap dries out every few months and it starts to smell. Do you have any drain traps that may just need a cup of water added to them? The previous owners to my own house noticed a terrible smell and it turns out that my house's sewage pipe had not been connected and years of blackwater were draining into a pit under my house. This is obviously extreme but just an example. Did you check the attic area for evidence of bat guano, raccoon nests etc. These can get pretty smelly, especially the bigger animals will cause soaking of the wood/insulation or paper facing of the ceiling below with urine.feces. I am sure others will have other suggestions of hidden sources of stink.