I made the bypass. I just walk into the hardware store and envision what I need. No list. That particular one I made of all 1/2 pvc. So, one would need 1/2 pvc pipe, a ball valve, two T couplings, two slip x male threaded elbows, and two female threaded unions. Plus primer and glue. To fit mine to a hose, I needed a 1 male and 1 female hose connecter to pvc adapters. Just make sure that one of the last pieces in place is a section of pipe from a T to the ball valve. In other words, put the injector in place, and then determine the length of the final piece of pipe between the ball valve an a T. The blue one in the photo I posted above was 1/2 inch, identical to the one you provided a link to. Significantly larger than the smallest mazzei. The best price I was able to find on mazzie injectors was the source they linked to on their site. Kisko Sales Playing with the 283 Saturday, I started to time how many gpm flowed through it, and how much it would take up, but someone decided to start a shower in the middle of filling a 5 gal bucket, so the flow rate changed with the pressure change. I didn't have time to start over and move everything over to the secondary irrigation source. But I did note that the flow exiting my hose may have been less than 1 gpm, and the suction rate was very high. Much higher than I expected. Emptied 1/2 gallon in a min or two. As I mentioned above, I definitely need the bypass to slow down the uptake rate, and provide reasonable flow for a hose end shower sprayer. Late Sat I was able to get it all setup with diluted sulfuric acid, dial in the bypass, and now my water coming out of the hose is a pH of 5. Perfect for the blueberries I need all this for. You only need the cheaper poly propylene. I got one PP and one NPVDF. I will use the NPVDF when I setup the acid on an automated irrigation system, not this portable hose setup where I am using more dilute sulfuric acid. I donâÂÂt know that I need the NPVDF, but it does have higher chemical resistance and heat resistance, so when IâÂÂm using more concentrated acid in the irrigation setup, I wanted the more durable NPVDF to last longer. The mazzie salesman I spoke with convinced me there may be enough heat creation with concentrated acid injection that the NPVDF was a worth considering. For fertilizer, PP is more than adequate.

Generally, if you are working with a drip line on an incline, you want to go across the incline so the drip line remains fairly level. Running the line up and down the hill results in pressure changes from top to bottom with the result that the bottom gets more water than the top. If you go across the slope, the pressure remains constant similar to flat ground. If your slope has a height change of 4 or 5 feet or less and is a gentle slope, I don't think you would have much problem. With a greater change in elevation, then you might see some effects. I'm not a water expert and can't give you exact heights that would be acceptable or not, but if you go crosswise, this won't be a problem. Your main feeder line can go with the slope, and at worst you may need to either add a pressure regulator on the lower laterals or some valves to restrict the flow somewhat and get more pressure at the top. That is easy to do and you can start without, then add valves/regulators after you try it if the results aren't satisfactory. The other thing to watch on a slope is the rate you apply water. If it is faster than it can soak in, it will start running downhill over the surface instead of soaking in, you'll get erosion and the top won't get enough water and the bottom too much.

ts, Too much pressure. Test your pressure from the splitter and see what you get(hose water pressure gauge from hardware store). Let us know what it is. Your 20 psi pressure regulator may be overwhelmed with the initial pressure or maybe not functioning. I can tell you are concerned with a pressure problem when you say I only turned the water a little bit. Aloha

Hi Teeka: I just recently installed a drip/micro system and still have some of the receipts. Our home came with an inground sprinkler system but in the interest of saving water and selectively watering flowers, I just installed the drip system. Initially I bought 1/2" poly with in line drippers. However, it's stiffer and I found I had gaps because the "bends" had to be large to make turns, etc. But, all is not lost. I've since bought regular 1/2" poly and drippers and misters to use with it. Where there's a gap that I want to remedy in the in-line dripper system, I've just added misters or extra in-line drippers and am happy. I'm using components of the "Mister Landscaper" system available at Lowes because there is a Lowe's very near me and, as expected, I've had to run back there for "more" of various parts. Ignoring the poly with inline drippers, let's say I started with just regular 1/2" poly (which is what I did convert to). I ran this from my water source around my house just laying it on top of the ground (my beds are along the house). I didn't want to blow out the drippers because of high pressure and wanted to keep the line clean so the drippers wouldn't clog, so at the head of the line I installed a filter (about $10) and a 25 PSI pressure regulator ($7.56). Whereever I wanted to water a plant I either installed an inline dripper ($7.56 for a package of 10) or a stake assembly ($3.13) with a small full circle spinning mister ($3.77 for 5). The stake assemblies are above ground and come with a small amount of 1/4" poly so you can attach them to the 1/2" poly feeder line. There were places where I needed more 1/4" poly line than was provided on the stake assembly so I bought a small roll of 1/4" vinyl tubing (? price) and connectors (again, receipt gone) to extend the secondary line and place the stake where it was needed. The stake assemblies do not come with any type of mister so you must buy these separately. There are various types (depending on the spray pattern you wish). The one thing I did which I would advise against was being too quick to mulch so as to "finish" the job. It's easy to see where the elevated misters are watering because the mulch is wet. But the inline drippers and their wet area are covered by mulch so I've had to probe through the mulch to find the drippers and see where it's wet. I should have waited on the mulch, run the system and evaluated the water pattern, corrected whatever needed correcting, and then mulched. I did not attach a timer to the system, thinking I would just turn it on when the plants needed it. However, now that I'm going to be away for several days I'm sorry. I'll revert to the regular in ground system to keep my garden alive. When I return from my trip, I think adding a timer will be in the cards. Home Depot also has these type systems from DIG corporation. Their web site is http://www.digcorp.com I also read that irrigation supply stores have components for drip systems. I didn't do comparison shopping. I hope that the gas money I saved by only having to go to the nearer store, compensated for whatever I may have saved elsewhere. June Here is a link that might be useful: Mister Landscaper