Please share advice on engineered wood floor?
John Galt
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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SJ McCarthy
2 years agoJohn Galt
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Advice please! Dust/dirt with engineered floor installation?
Comments (4)In our experience, the installer is correct. When we installed our engineered lock floor my husband did all the cutting outside and all it was a matter of was laying the clean/dry piece in place. The installers will be on hands and knees applying the piece so all they really need is light and enough room to kneel. (my DH wiped the piece after cutting to remove cutting dust) Hope this helps....See MoreNeed advice on restoring my prefinished engineered wood floors!
Comments (4)Do you know if you're floor is an engineered? or is it solid? If its solid you will be able to sand it multiple times if done by a professional. If its engineered you may get more than one sanding out of it, once again by a professional. The DIY mop n shine you get at the supermarket will just make a mess and wont live up to your expectations. Not to mention it will just create a load of other problems down the line. To fix the "dull" areas correctly, you will need to get a professional out to see if a Buff n Coat is an option. maybe even try a test spot to see if the finish will adhere properly. The reason for the professional is because if an inexperience DIY attempts to apply finish on an unprepared floor, the finish will just peel away and then thats a headache no one wants to deal with. as far as mr.sandless, forget you ever heard that name. Waste of money and time....See MoreEngineered Wooden Floor. Help Please!
Comments (13)You are confining yourself to looking at factory finished floors. You can have any finish you want if you have the flooring installed and then finished on site. Of course, you need to be careful because the type of wood you choose will influence the ultimate stain color and look of the floors. I recently remodeled and installed light wood engineered floors. They have a pretty decent wear layer - that is the portion of the "real" wood that determines how many times it can be sanded/refinished. However, more important to me was the durability of the actual finish because realistically I would not have any floor refinished - logistically it would be too difficult so if I needed new floors (knock on wood), I would opt for factory finished engineered wood floors. My floors are from Mirage and they seem to have a wide selection of finishes - I opted for a natural oak finish which is very "blonde". They are a Canadian company and espouse green practices. Mirage Floors Solid hardwood floors are great in the right circumstances. They weren't practical for me because I have no interest in refinishing - I don't anticipate selling but if circumstances change, the buyer will either refinish prior to moving in or decide they don't like the floors and put down new flooring or the floors will still be in decent condition and they will just move in....See MoreEngineered wood flooring advice
Comments (4)The Shaw thickness (3/8") is questionable. The gold standard is 3/4" (solid or engineered...doesn't matter). I didn't find information on the wear layer...but a 'good' engineered hardwood should have 3mm (1/8") of wear layer (the top wood layer). It is almost impossible for a 3/8" hardwood to have 33% of it's thickness (1/8") going to wear layer. And this floor has HEAVY hand scraping which is pretty much 'out of style' right now. In Canada the product is selling for $7.50/sf. Not bad but I would expect a WHOLE BUNCH MORE for the $7/sf range. Normally we see this thickness for sale for $4.99/sf at Home Depot. And remember: subfloor preparation is EVERYTHING. If you are removing carpet, then be prepared to spend $2-$4/sf on subfloor preparation. Your budget for the total job should be over $10/sf....See MoreJohn Galt
2 years agoJohn Galt
2 years agoSJ McCarthy
2 years agoTherese N
2 years agoTherese N
2 years agoG & S Floor Service
2 years agoMeghan Brindley Marriott
2 years ago
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SJ McCarthy