Waterbug_guy, I decided years ago that I prefer the KISS method to water gardening, which is when I put away the salt and testing kits. I decided not to fight the natural water conditions I had, although way back then there all kinds of people telling me to do something immediately to drop my pH which they felt was too high, add salt, and test daily at least. I decided that was not what I wanted, and my fish and I have been content with that decision for about a decade. So I certainly agree with a lot of what you have said. You are also certainly more knowledgeable than I about how much the actions I took could have altered my test results. I can not rule out user error because no matter how simple the test I am simply cable of erring. But my initial thought WAS that my ammonia had been high and the filter was kicking in and taking care of it, and the water change and plants helped. But I am not disregarding what you said, because I am just not as up on testing and treating those results, in part because I chose not to g0 that route years ago. Like I said, it really doesn't seem very important any more. But I am going to continue testing at least a few times a week for a while and will try to remember to do it right before and after cleaning the filter. I would be interested to see what the results are before starting the filtering next spring with the fish load I have, as well as from the time I start filtering until the WH take off again next year. I wonder if I am having periods of high ammonia levels before the bio filter really gets going again, when I only have a few small WH. Something to maybe keep an eye on in the fall once a frost has starting the kill the WH, as well. Especially once I put the filter away for winter. Joecd, as far I am concerned any filter that harbors the good bacteria that can change the ammonia in the pond to nitrite and then nitrate is a type of bio filter. There are almost as many ways of doing that, it seems, as there are people with ponds. One way is to purchase a canister type filter that has media inside for these bacteria to grow on, as I did. There are also many types of homemade biofilters, and most surfaces in your pond probably do that to some extent, as a well. But most people I have heard referring to a biofilter are referring to a separate filter that is specifically designed to do that, whether it is a purchased filter or a homemade one, rather than to the natural bacteria on the surfaces in the pond.

I received my soil test results but my pdf converter won't open in word so here is a summary. Ph slightly high 7.4 Buffer 7.4 This portion was from a bar chart: Phosphorus very high but they say sufficient Potassium medium Calcium very high Magnesium very high Low lead level Boron 1.2 Managanese 13.4 Zinc 4.8 copper 0.3 iron 8.3 sulfur 87.9 extractable aluminum 37 micronutrient levels - all normal I didn't see any nitrogen analysis but they did add this: you may apply the standard recommendations supplied, or you may provide sufficient nitrogen and potassium by using alternate sources to provide about ü nitrogen and about 1/3 lb potassium per 100 sq ft/. I have already covered my beds with chopped oak leaves, so if I want to add sulfer to lower the PH can I just put it on top of the leaves or do I need to work it into the soil. Thanks for looking everyone hope to hear some feedback.

I REALLY REALLY appreciate you posting this. I did the calculations for my 1/3 acre and what you did nearly parallels my current labors. My garden yields were pitiful and after a rain the soil looks like it salt caps and hardens to the point that many soft plants have a very hard time penetrating the surface. I've done MANY things over the past several years, including cover crops, and nothing has worked. Now desperate problems create desperate and difficult solutions. Different that you, I'm using about double the Urea which was recommended based on a University of Idaho publication: http://www.extension.uidaho.edu/nursery/Extension%20Publications/Using%20bark%20and%20Sawdust%20for%20Mulches,%20Soil%20Amendments%20and%20Potting%20Mixes%20-CIS%20858.pdf Our soil pH is a bit low (acidic) and because of that I'm adding an additional 3600 lbs of pellet lime (per acre). Weed's are not a serious issue but I use plastic film mulch and Tee tape (drip tape) which will help decompose the rough-cut sawdust, keep the urea/fertilizers in-place, warm the soil, keeps the vegetables clean, and naturally does work to keep natural grasses/weeds from spreading out of control. Again, thanks. This was encouraging and I expect great results.

I appreciate your hard work, but I think an "average" date would be misleading to people who are new to hummingbirds. These people don't understand that hummers don't migrate en mass - there can be months between birds heading north AS the data you've accumulated shows (62 days! WOW!). Furthermore, the dates for the FIRST hummers is important for atleast two reasons. 1. Early in the season there may not be as many natural food sources and a feeder out early enough may mean life or death for an early hummer. The first dates are a great wake-up call, as in "Really, they've been sighted nearby - I need to get my feeder out" 2. People who are trying to attract hummers to their yards probably don't want to wait until the migration season is half over to put out their feeder. They want EVERY bird who comes by to discover it, remember it and return. The earlier your feeder goes out the more migrating birds that can use it - the more fun we have watching! I hope this doesn't sound like I'm criticizing your work. I understand your frustration, seeing that hummers are in your area but not seeing them. Maybe Lanny could put a disclaimer on his actual map page noting that hummers migrate individually and it may take months for migrating birds to pass through an area. Remember even his map doesn't neccessarily show the first hummers - just the ones humans spotted and reported. Thank you for your hard work - it's a great chart!