We had Johnson Hardwood"s Luxury Plank Vinyl flooring, Public House- whiskey sour installed by the builder after we looked at the product at a flooring center recommended by Johnson. We have lived in the house for exactly 2 years, and for the first year the flooring cleaned up nicely. In the beginning, I had contacted the "technical rep" for Johnson, and he recommended Rejuvenate LVF cleaner as it is low Ph. That is the only product I have used on the floor since we moved in. We loved the floor so much that we paid $7000 to have it installed in our lanai last year. In the past several months, the floor in the main house is blotchy or spotty throughout, and it looks like certain areas have a film. We clean up water and spots immediately, but the spots continue to show when the floor is wet or dry. So far the lanai doesn't have the same problem, but it's only a year old now. I did report these issues to the technical rep at Johnson, and he wants we to contact the maker of Rejuvenate as that product is likely the cause of the spotting all over the floor. He also wants me to find out who the contractor bought the flooring from when the house was built, and I am to provide the name and contact info for the flooring contractor who installed the floor in the lanai last year. I have tried to take photos with my iphone, but only a few of the spots will show up. I clean this floor at least twice weekly with the Rejuvenate and I vacuum it daily as everything shows up on the dark floor. I know I am going to get the run around from the Johnson rep. I am so upset that we paid top dollar for what we thought was a quality flooring only to have it look like cheap vinyl flooring. I wish we had never heard of Luxury Vinyl Plank flooring.

We also have the Adura LVP, in Essex Oak. We have stairs that come down into the room, so when we found out that Mannington was (at the time; I don't know if anything newer than Nov 2015 has come onto the market) the ONLY mfg who offered one-piece stair treads, we turned our attention solely to that line. You may want to know that our vendor absolutely refuses to do a click-lock install on LVP. Glue-down only is their policy. They said they had way too many consumer problems with click-lock installs on LVP versus zero complaints with glue-down. Two different contractors and three different friends who were experienced remodelers, all thought the flooring was wood. The LVP is only slightly separated, at a right angle, by our kitchen flooring, from a 1940's red oak flooring. We were pretty amazed that no one could tell the LVP wasn't "real" wood, with the red oak flooring so close by. Sorry our experience is less than a year so far. But we have been very pleased with the LVP. Easy, easy, easy to keep clean. Do note that some folks who have had LVP very long-term have said fade occurs in strong daylight situations. I can attest that even the highest quality LVT does suffer color changes in strong direct daylight. Our kitchen flooring is Metroflor LVT in a slate-look tile, installed in 2003. I recently had to have a single tile replaced, whose corner edge had chipped off. It wasn't until after replacement I noticed the new tile (from an extra box I bought at the same time) which had been used to protect a table surface but was exposed for about 10 yrs to more direct sun than my kitchen floor, IS now a very slightly different color than the rest of the kitchen tiles. It has a color shift to the more brown/tan hues, than the others. It's not terribly noticeable - after six months I don't think my DH has ever noticed it - but UV shift is something to be aware of if you have windows with direct sun coming in, that are not coated with UV reduction film. YMMV, of course. This is a 25x18' MBR: Close-up: The one-piece stair tread, with mitered side edge:

Another thing to consider when looking at the engineered floors is plank length. I just realized why I didn't like some of the photos I saw ... they had too many short pieces which gives the floor a choppy look and to me, it looks too much like a tile effect. The Uptown Floors suggested above sound great, and I will look at them more closely, but they still have "shorter" board (12" to 8 ft). I am looking at another company with board lengths from 3 ft to 12 ft. Those longer boards make a big difference in the overall look in a larger open floor plan. The longer boards do cost more, so I need to do some more comparisons and value of spending more for a more pleasing look. Their other specs are mostly similar. I think floors are going to be my hardest decision!

OK...I'm sure these guys believe what they are saying...but they are discussing FLOATING FLOORING. That is sitting on HDF (fibre board). The WATER PROOF stuff is 100% cork. It is 4mm - 8mm thick. There is nothing but cork...cork...and then some cork. Nothing in the middle. When people say that cork isn't good with water, I always ask them: What is in wine bottles? Cork. What is the material that kept the Titanic's Champagne 'sweat' (ie. now salt water intrusion)? Cork. I'm not kidding. Google the sale of Titanic Champagne. It exists...and so does the CORK that kept the sea water out (at 3800m = 12,000 feet). Cork is glued down to the subfloor. It is butted tightly together. Then a polyurethane is applied over top = water proof. You can spill GALLONS of water on the floor and it will sit there. The cork does nothing. It doesn't care. So long as the water does NOT reach the walls or the cabinets you are fine. This is IDENTICAL to stone. This is identical to porcelain. So long as the water does NOT reach the walls, you are fine. Just suck up the water and go. Cork is the same. Whosoever 'poo poos' cork's water proof properties does not know the REAL cork flooring. The CLICK together stuff is a different animal and it needs to be TREATED as such. I can get a floating cork floor in a kitchen. No problem. How? Because I know what I'm doing and I know what I'm dealing with. Am I an installer? Nope. Just a sales chic! But I've done it, personally, on several occasions. I can also install a decent glue down cork tile in a BATHROOM. Yep. Baths, kitchens and entranceways = super happy places for glue down cork tiles. But cork is expensive and takes +++ MONEY to install (if it is glue down). So the cork industry tries to make it easier to install....but the SALES people (and many installers) fail to understand the product and they FAIL to follow installation/maintenance instructions. I can get the softest wood floor (cork) to be water proof (glue down tile) and to be the toughest floor you will ever meet (Loba 2K Supra AT applied x 2 coats after installation). But then again, I know what I'm doing; I know what I'm working with and I UNDERSTAND what cork is. I think you would be hard pressed to find the same with the Gents in the video. As for resale, the EXPENSIVE cork glue down tiles = as valuable as marble flooring. Nope. Not kidding. But then again, I understand cork.