I'm the one who bought the former kitchen display. My dishwasher will be flanked by a 24" 3 drawer bank on the left and the sink cabinet on the right. I will have a curtain instead of doors under the apron sink. At this point I don't know if I have any preference looks wise. That why I wanted to see the real life combos. Thank you so much for posting your pictures. They are a great help. Just seeing the stand alone dishwasher pictures on google doesn't show me how it will look in relation to other cabinets. If I go with the 1 drawer and 2 door combo, I'll just need to buy 1 drawer face. I had a 24" cabinet with this combo, but I used the drawer in my oven cabinet. If I go with the other combos, I have to buy them. I can make my final decision later on in the process, but I'm trying to work up my budget now.

oops, first I feel I must apologize to msm859 following my rant about "90-counters". I meant no disrespect to your advice. To be honest, I only very briefly skimmed through your post and didn't even catch the part where you mentioned 90s, so I wasn't trying to be rude on that point. You recommended going with larger pipe anyways and my personal gripe is with those who still use 2" pipe and then boast about avoiding 90s. Respek! Note to others: Somebody could just as easily be thinking I'm a hack for using big pipe and not worrying about 90s. We all draw the line somewhere. Jennifer: The 1.5" returns are typically branched off a 2" main return line. They go to 1.5" where they penetrate through the wall because the eyeballs (trim pieces) are that size. I'm guessing that is what your builder is intending, but I could be wrong. In a perfect world, or if you were a Kennedy or DuPont, then that main return line would be the same size as the suction, so 3" is my armchair recommendation. If it was built with 3" suction and 2.5" return, I would not really frown on that either, but I wouldn't do it myself. Well actually, that's not true because I am doing exactly that on a current project, but that's because of some other fuzzy logic and it's not that my return is downsized, but rather my suction is upsized. If your pool was built with 2.5" suction and 2.5 or 2" return, then that would probably be better than average, but you'd be amazed at how much more you'll love your pool with bigger pipes. I mentioned to somebody here before that one of the first pools I built on my own, I used a 1/2 HP filter pump on 2" pipes and I was a little disappointed that the pump did not seem to be any quieter than any of the hundreds of 3/4 HP pumps I've seen in service. So last year, I did a project of several small fountains like you might see at a ritzy shopping center (these things are more painful than any pool I've ever built), each on its own filtration system. I used 2.5" suctions and returns, reducing down as appropriate for the returns and fountain nozzles. The pipe runs were all well over 100' in each direction, two of them approaching 160', and those pumps were so quiet I was stunned and amazed. If you do go with the Intelliflo, then the Intellitouch will certainly be a nice complement to that, but you might also consider the EasyTouch. In a nutshell, the EasyTouch is a value-engineered, toned-down version of the Intellitouch. I'm not familiar enough with it to know for sure that it controls the Intelliflo in the same manner, but it's definitely worth looking into. If your builder doesn't know either, he can contact his local Pentair rep. who will be happy to lend a hand. Something else I just noticed is that they've spec'd a 1 or 2 HP Whisperflo for the two laminar jets. This equation is way out of balance because those laminars only need 10 gpm each. Even with a 1/2 HP Whisperflow, you will wind up sending the majority of its output through the bypass line, directly back into the pool. The 1/2 HP will give you 2 or 3 times the flow you need for the laminars. Laminars are delicate and fussy, it's imperative not to give them too much flow or they can be damaged. At the least, they won't work correctly with too much flow, so there is zero advantage to oversizing the pump which runs them. Additionally, they should receive filtered water, so I would put a small cartridge filter on that pump (Clean & Clear 100 or 150 is fine for the task and not much $$). You also want to have the flow to each laminar adjustable with gate valves or globe valves because they are much more suited to very fine adjustment. Most builders would use a 3-way valve or two ball valves, which can be difficult to adjust in the fine increments needed for laminars. The laminars are proposed to be lit, but I do not see a fiberoptic illuminator listed in the specs. They are available with or without color, so you'll want to be sure and clarify that with your builder. hmmmm...a couple other things off the top of my head; you might consider going with two pool lights, along the long wall on the house side so they aren't shining into the house. This is a basic thing that many others here can vouch for. Regarding the auto-fill, I may be splitting hairs at this point but I don't really like the Pentair/Letro autofill. They have a tendency to cause hammer knocking in your house plumbing because of the way they're designed. I much prefer the new autofill from Pour-A-Lid or my former favorite, MP Industries' Auto-Lev. The prices are roughly the same and these two are much easier to install, service, and live with than the Pentair/Letro version. Well this was fun. If I can help you spend any more of your hard-earned money, don't hesitate to ask. hahaha

Painting it white or some light color will make it stand out more. Do you want that? The other option is to paint the walls a darker color which compliments the oak, which will make it stand out less. Lots less work too, painting the walls. For it not to stand out at all, the wall and oak must be painted similar colors. Right now your blueish (at least on my monitor) color on the upper wall is maximum contrast for both to stand out. I was in the same boat, and decided to paint the walls, because it was easier than doing all the trim. I strongly suggest a medium tone, since light or dark makes more contrast. Or if you paint, a color close to the trim paint color. Google paint colors to go with oak to get some ideas if you're interested. Here are a couple of my links: http://www.iheartorganizing.com/2013/04/you-asked-what-wood-you-do.html?utm_source=feedly http://www.true-design-house.com/blog/2016/3/14/bestpaint-with-honey-oak

Hey, here I am needing help and you were just mocking me, thanks! I actually think it would look kind of cool and interesting. And when I post pics of my finished kitchen with door knob on fridge and everyone comments that was the greatest idea and they've never seen anything so clever and ask all about it, I will sit back and mock you when I reply with a wink and a smile and say "Isn't it so unique? And it functions beautifully! Everyone who comes into my home loves it! Thanks!" Heeheehee ;) I was actually going to use egg knobs on my doors as well but didn't want it to look like an Easter basket exploded in my house. In all seriousness though- is this actually a legit suggestion because I am now seriously considering. See what you started-