"So, technically, do you think I should be able to remove the panel and manually hold down the interlock button on the furnace front and have the furnace run?" Possibly if you can find the switch. It might not work well with the panel removed though. A lot depends on what the access panel is covering. It might be as simple as adjusting the switch or adding a thin shim to make sure it closes when the panel is installed.

Looking at the rust on the cap,I believe the connection coroded causing a high resistane ( very common occurance on electrical exposed to the elements). The resistance literly tuned the metal and wire red. As already stated,caps are very cheap so just go ahead and replace it. Here's pointers to help you out. Draw a diagram of the wire connectios paying close attention to markings on cap that say (compressor) and ( fan). That is a dual cap. Take it with you. You can ask but there is little chance they have one. Buy 2 caps,one for each value. Don't freak if they want to sell you a 10% higher mfd or 440 volt where yours is 330,it will work fine. While you are there buy some high heat wire terminals ( see the 2 slots in the old terminals?) You will need to build a simple jumper with 2 caps,be sure to us large enough wire. The terminals must be perfectly CLAMPED TIGHT on wires or the same problem will return eventualy. Good luck.

media temp ... is usually more important than the media itself .. for germination ... and after that.. proper watering ... for proper root growth and after that.. light intensity ... for proper green growth ... and then.. i might think about the media as a variable ... ken ps: and i would sterilize my media before i started... regardless of what the bag states ... as well as all my pots/flats/tools/etc ... i use the baggie method in the micro for small batches ... and once got a turkey aluminum pan from the dollar store ... and covered it with foil .. and made a giant jiffy pop out of it.. lol .. i used the meat thermometer the first time... but i figured out.. that if properly dampened.. when steam escaped out a hole in the top ... i had gotten it warm enough .... never forget.. an ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure ... http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4DMG/Soil/sterile.htm

If you grow out plants from saved Sungold F-1 fruits, you will get the F-2 generation, which has high variability as the genes recombine randomly. With SunGold F-2s, people who've grown them have reported a wide range of results with fruit ranging from red to orange to gold or golden yellow, and some fruit that is bi-color. The sizes and shapes have had quite a bit of variability as well, ranging from large round cherries about an inch in diameter to grape shaped tomatoes. The important question, of course, is the flavor. Almost everyone who's grown out F-2 SunGolds and written about them has found the flavor highly variable as well, and not necessarily in a good way. Some people have gotten sweet fruit, some have gotten sour. Most feel the flavor is not nearly as good as SunGold, but a few thought it was good enough---or at least their friends and family liked it even though it wasn't the well-known SunGold flavor. Many tomato afficianadoes, and some well-known private breeders, have tried to dehybridize SunGold to get a stable O-P version of it. None have gotten an exact replica of SunGold, though Reinhard Kraft of Germany probably has come closest with SunGold Select II, seeds of which likely are available commercially from some seed company. Some people find SunGold Select II a reasonable substitute for SunGold (though not exactly the same as the F-1 SunGold) and others don't. Most people who have tried to dehybridize SunGold have taken their attempts out to 4 or 5 generations, represented as F-4 and F-5 and I've seen some reports of F-8, and then finally have dropped the effort, realizing they'd rather grow and eat SunGold F-1 than an inferior O-P descendant. You should know that the variability is not just in the fruit either. Some folks have gotten very short dwarf plants in the F-2 generation, some have gotten plants that have poor disease tolerance. So, since you are growing for market, assuming you want to grow as many fruit to sell as possible, growing out your F-2 SunGold plants is a risk because you could end up with largely dwarf plants that have poor disease resistance and produce red cherry fruit with flavor that might be great (rare in the info I have found online), mediocre or poor. To me, that makes growing out SunGold F-2 very risky and possibly a waste of resources (especially space). Dehybridizing SunGold into a stable open-pollinated variety is sort of the Holy Grail among tomato afficianadoes, and I've never seen one report of someone saying that their F-2 plants have given them an exact replica of SunGold. If you have the time and space to experiment and are willing to dedicate several years of effort to growing out SunGold generations, you are likely to find that the F-2 generation was the most unstable, and you may get less variability as you go forward with each new generation of plants. From that point forward, you save seed each plant generation only from the plants that gave you the closest version of what you're seeking, and which each generation, you may come closer to getting a reasonable facsimile of SunGold. Or, you may not. However, since Reinhard Kraft already has done all that to produce SunGold Select II, you'd just be duplicating his efforts with no guarantee you'd get his same results. It seems easier to me to track down and buy SunGold Select II seeds, and as far as I can remember though I don't know if I saw them in this year's catalog, Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds has SunGold Select II. Finally, be very careful not to call the tomatoes you are selling from saved seed "SunGold" because they are not, legally speaking, SunGold. You'll have to call them something else to avoid getting into legal trouble with the seed company that holds the legal rights to SunGold. By the way, with Porter the reason you have had good results from saved seed is because it is a long-stable (for decades now) open-pollinated tomato from the old and now-defunct Gene Porter & Sons Seed Company once based in Stephenville, TX, so saved seed (assuming it wasn't cross-pollinated by an insect and that you don't get a sport or mutation) will give you stable Porter tomato plants. That's the difference between open-pollinated varieties and hybrids, and it is a very huge difference. To get the original SunGold F-1, you'd have to cross the original parents used to breed it (a closely held, trade secret, so no one knows what they are), which is how the wholesale producer who has the rights to SunGold produces new seed for it. I've tried some open-pollinated versions of several different hybrid tomato varieties, and for the most part found them inferior (sometimes very inferior) and went back to growing the hybrid version.