when to plant new shrubs and transplant others NW Illinois, zone 5

3 years ago

I had a massive, messy tree line that I cleared a bunch of the crap out and am looking forward to getting some new stuff in and rearrange some existing.

I have some new boxwood, hydrangea, rhododendron and virburnum that I need to put in and several hostas, barberry and even some daffodils that I’d like to move.

The precious owners left me a nice mix to work with.

Low temps are around mid 30’s for the next 2 weeks, should I wait before doing anything? And with that being said, is there a preferred time for anything I listed above?

Thanks for your help!

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Comments (4)

mindshift
3 years ago
Ideally one would move established plantings when they are dormant or just emerging. The time depends on the particular plant, and experts recommend FALL. Right now is a bad time to move daffodils. If they haven't already come up they will soon. Their roots are growing even if the tops haven't emerged. Nonetheless, if they can't stay where they are, it would be better to move them soonest.

Before digging up any plant have a new site prepared. While dormant bulbs can be popped into any hole and covered over, already growing bulbs need more space. Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the existing bed and about 6" deep. Now dig up the bulbs you want to move being careful not to damage them with the spade. Discard any that get badly damaged. Keep the bulb clumps together and set them in the new planting hole, spreading any roots. Replace the soil over the bulbs and gently tamp it, then water in well. Use the same general directions in transplanting hostas. The size and depth of the new planting hole will be different, of course.

Transplanting established broadleaf shrubs requires removing at least 1/3 of the existing top growth. It is best if the plant is still dormant. If the barberry is a deciduous species, remove 1/3 of the oldest branches to ground level. If it is an evergreen species, remove 1/3 of the overall growth. Now, this is the general guide to pruning barberry, but because you will lose some roots during digging you may need to remove 1/2 or more of existing growth to make up for the root loss. Barberry root systems are described as shallow but wide. You need to start the dig far enough away from the base to preserve feeder roots, then use shovels to cut deeper roots beneath the plant until you can pry it up with some soil, place it on a tarp and drag it to it's new site. Considering that many barberry species get quite large it may well be easier to just chop it down and remove the stump. All transplanted shrubs of any size will need extra care over the following year. Water whenever a dry spell occurs. Watch for insect damage and disease, because a transplanted shrub has been stressed and more likely to be subject to further damage.
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
3 years ago
If you can dig outside, you can plant outside. It really is quite that simple when dealing with any plants that are rated winter hardy for your zone :-) Spring is an ideal time for planting and/or transplanting and the earlier in the season the better, as you avoid increasing heat that contributes to transplant shock the closer you get to summer.

I can't imagine anywhere that daffodils are not up and doing their stuff (or already finished doing their stuff) and they are easy to move. Just dig a clump with plenty of soil attached and replant where desired.

FWIW, cutting back or pruning topgrowth of any kind of shrub, deciduous or evergreen, before transplanting has long been established to be a detrimental practice. It only aids the convenience of the gardener but can slow establishment, cause stunted regrowth and bump up watering needs.

The Myth of Top Pruning Transplants
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i am curious how much the 4 stage treatment cost .. would you mind telling us ... if the problem is solved ... and it should be solved .. and the tree ought to recover ... period ... you shouldnt be thinking that it will recur.. if it was a completed job ... so there is some logic in waiting and seeing.. what happens this year... and suggesting to the service that provided such.. that they most likely promised to solve the issue ... on the other hand... i can see the logic in being done with it.. since every time you see it.. your blood pressure probably spikes ... lol.. mine would ... i would give it.. in tree time.. at least this year.. to see the result of the money you paid .... and then go from there.. in other words.. i would be watching in tree time .. not instant gratification time .. anyway ... im at a loss how to suggest a tree for a spot in your garden.. without seeing the spot in your garden.. and its relation to the house.. etc .. how about some pix .. and we could confirm the ID with a pic of the plant and its leaves or flowers ... but i sure hope your service provider actually knew the plant ... ken btw: clay is not a tree choice issue.. its a planting issue which i easily dealt with .. EVERY ball and burlap plant you see in a nursery ... was grown in clay.. else there would not be a ball in the burlap ... you sure cant do that with soil that falls apart ... and the stuff that doesnt fall apart.. is clay ....
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago

bottom line.. no fancy theory or words ... 6 to 8 weeks before the onset of hot summer weather .. give the plants the time for the transplant to settle in and start pumping water ... so that it can cope with the heat to come ...

the sooner you get it done.. the longer it has to settle down ...

the later you do it.. the more summer care you have to offer ..

so.. e.g. .. in my MI.. heat starts to build i july .. so i would like to have it all done by mid april ... but thru 5/1 will work rather easily ...

do understand.. its not day heat that is the real issue .. its night heat ... cool nights are a recovery period for day stresses .. so when nights are getting into the 70s... there isnt as as good a recovery period.. and that when stresses start to build ...

can you do it into summer.. sure .. but it get harder.. rig up some shade cloth ... check water often ... etc ...

finally ... big difference between something planted in full sun.. and partial shade ... and thats why i mentioned shading a transplant for a week or so.. if moved out of prime timing ...

check out section one in the link below

ken

https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years ago
no fair putting location in title ... lol.. tried to trick me there.. eh?? ... lol

when to plant new shrubs and transplant others NW Illinois, zone 5

Comments (4)

mindshift

gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)

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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

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