Goyo, You may not get a lot of response from your fellow Californians. It's very rare for someone from CA to post about a problem with wormy fruit (other than Spotted Wing Drosophila which are very very small worms). I'm across the Rockies so challenges here are quite a bit different, but I'll offer what I can. First you need to identify the pest. Here Oriental Fruit moth is common. Although it does occur in the western U.S., it is much less common out there. Peach Twig borer is much more common in the west and shows similar symptoms of both fruit and tree damage. My guess is that's what you're dealing with. The worms are identifiable, so you should be able to confirm/disconfirm my guess. Below is a UC Davis fact sheet on the pest. They go on to list some chemical recommendations but note that most of those chemicals are going to be hard for you to obtain. However, the Bt and oil they recommend are readily available. You might see if their "soft" recommendations work for you. If they don't, then I'd recommend using a bigger gun like Triazicide Once and Done. You can search this forum to find plenty of information on it. Davis recommends spraying for twig borer at bloom with soft sprays. Triazicide is not a soft spray, so wait until after bloom if you use it. Here is a link that might be useful: Peach Twig Borer UC Davis

A very good book for you to buy is the 'Backyard Orchardist'. It is excellent, google your zone and the insects in your area: oriental fruit moth, peach borer (bores almost every tree), coddling moth, and a host of other pests. Welcome to the Orchard. Mrs. G PS, no spray, no fruit.

Scott, isn't Biotune a penetrant and not a spreader sticker? Better make sure you use Biotunes equivalent. I think the advantage of organic vegetables is that conventional growers tend to juice things up with soluble N and create vegetables with very big cells full of water. Taste and nutrition suffers if you grow vegies or fruit this way because of the higher ratio of water. I actually grow my vegetables organically once I get the starts out of the green house. I like synthetic fertilizer for starts. Vegetables are easy, though. I just don't like this constant drum beat of healthy eating can only be accomplished with organic food. If I buy organic produce here it will cost anywhere from 2 to 4 times as much money so I don't think you should be discouraging people from eating healthy food they can actually afford.

Hi Glenn: If you read the section in the 2009 Midwest Tree Fruit Spray Guide for apples, you'll notice the recommendation for combining Nova (same AI as Immunox) with a protectant. See the note #2 in the right hand column under the section titled "APPLE TIGHT CLUSTER". The #2 note refers to the extended protectant program which includes Immunox/Nova as opposed to the "protectant program 7-day interval" which does not utilize Nova. You and I have to deal with CAR which complicates things some as far as fungicide choices. I haven't come up with a protectant to tank-mix with Immunox for CAR other than Mancozeb but, we had that discussion elsewhere. Why does the guide state that, "Growers using an extended protectant program should use an SI fungicide (Nova...)...(tank-mixed) with a protectant fungicide"? My best guess is resistance because the SI fungicides have resistance issues at least in some parts of the country. Hi Olpea: thanks for beating the captan doesn't work for CAR back into my head, must have slipped out during the winter. Have you lost any peach or apple buds to old man winter yet? Sometimes the spray thing feels like trying to juggle 30 balls at once in my head! Michael