Fruit Tree Spray Schedule Help.

11 years ago

Does anyone know of a spraying schedule tailored to Southern california/Inland empire?
I am more familiar with growing guavas and these are not bothered by pests. I had a peach tree seedling that would beat peaches but most were filled with some type of worm. Last year I planted an apple tree and cherry trees (Royal and Minnie) So I didnt spray at all since I expected no fruit. This year I think the apple tree will probably bear some fruit and I want to spray in order to get into practice of proper spraying, etc. What chemicals work best for our environment? When to spray? Is there any spray that is safe for use around pets (I have a dog, who protects trees from squirrels/rats)?

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Comments (5)

foolishpleasure
11 years ago
I don't know if spray goes by environment. But if you are looking for less toxic spray I use Copper and Horticultural Oil I have a dog too doing the same job like yours. What kind of dog do you have? I have two Jack Russel terrier.
Abe
goyo626 S.Cal.8b/SZ20
Original Author
11 years ago
German Shepherd. Every summer he gifts me the corpse of some rat or squirrel brave (or stupid) enough to mess with my trees. By environment I meant weather and particular pest pressures that we might have in S. California that other places might not have.
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I don't think the cooperative extension is necessarily going to be that helpful in providing info on lowest spray programs unless there's someone there with a special interest in fruit trees. I have a very good cooperative extension but they could never provide me with a helpful program although they are very good at ID'ing pests. Cornell doesn't do research on growing fruit in home orchards, where fruit doesn't have to be pristine and pest pressure tends to be less than in huge orchard monocultures. Both Cornell and Rutgers, the NJ source of extension info, provide unreliable info on fruit pest control for home growers. I can't speak for other states, but none of them has a mandate or enough funding to do research and distribute legitimate info for home growers beyond trying to stop them from poisoning themselves or the environment. They usually recommend pre-mix fruit sprays and often malathion with too large intervals between sprays. They tend to me unaware of newer, safer and more affective formulations such as Triazide and Rally. The best thing to do, IMO, is start with a 2 insecticide program if you are in about Z7 or colder and see what happens. Then you can find out what the sweet spot is and if trees are young, not risk much fruit in the process. Or better still, don't spray the first crop at all and identify pests as they appear, sacrificing a small amount of fruit for your education. That is, if you can't get info from a nearby grower who seems competent. If I lived near Scott, for instance, I would expect to have problems with Oriental fruit moth, which would greatly complicate a spray schedule beyond what I currently have to do. It's a pest that's becoming a greater liability in my area and may soon increase the number of necessary sprays here. I used to have a problem with OFM deforming nursery peach trees after my low spray was over (they attacked shoots but not fruits). For a while there was a company that sold a pheromone bait formula with a pyrethroid bait that is extremely affective for me. I still have some bait left but it's been taken off the market for some stupid reason.
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foolishpleasure
11 years ago
My Jack Russel Terriers hate squirrels and scare them away from my yard. That kind of dog is small weighs 12 pounds but he thinks he is a defensive lineman who weights 300 pounds.
May some knowledgeable poster will pitch in with spray and environment.
Abe
olpea
11 years ago
Goyo,

You may not get a lot of response from your fellow Californians. It's very rare for someone from CA to post about a problem with wormy fruit (other than Spotted Wing Drosophila which are very very small worms).

I'm across the Rockies so challenges here are quite a bit different, but I'll offer what I can.

First you need to identify the pest. Here Oriental Fruit moth is common. Although it does occur in the western U.S., it is much less common out there.

Peach Twig borer is much more common in the west and shows similar symptoms of both fruit and tree damage. My guess is that's what you're dealing with. The worms are identifiable, so you should be able to confirm/disconfirm my guess. Below is a UC Davis fact sheet on the pest. They go on to list some chemical recommendations but note that most of those chemicals are going to be hard for you to obtain. However, the Bt and oil they recommend are readily available.

You might see if their "soft" recommendations work for you. If they don't, then I'd recommend using a bigger gun like Triazicide Once and Done. You can search this forum to find plenty of information on it. Davis recommends spraying for twig borer at bloom with soft sprays. Triazicide is not a soft spray, so wait until after bloom if you use it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Peach Twig Borer UC Davis
goyo626 S.Cal.8b/SZ20
Original Author
11 years ago
The problem with identifying the worm is that i cut down and removed the tree because it was too big and a seedling variety that wasnt very good.

FoolishPleasure: JRT were bred to hunt rats and other small animals, so its no surprise they chase small animals.

Fruit Tree Spray Schedule Help.

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foolishpleasure

goyo626 S.Cal.8b/SZ20
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Fruit Tree Spray Schedule Help.

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foolishpleasure

goyo626 S.Cal.8b/SZ20Original Author

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olpea

goyo626 S.Cal.8b/SZ20Original Author

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goyo626 S.Cal.8b/SZ20
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goyo626 S.Cal.8b/SZ20
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