Hi Lycheeluva-
Right on with the Bonide. ItÂs done nothing for my fungal diseases either. If you search this forum you will see how I wasted 2 years on the crap because it said it would control CAR, etc, but its active fungal ingredient Captan does nothing to control CARÂ and the other ingredients it contains are in inadequate strengths. But, I too may use up what I have left to help control PCÂ and then come up with a better PC plan for next year.

Are you looking to Immunox to control CAR? Anything else? It also works against Powdery Mildew which I usually donÂt have to deal with. Apparently itÂs good for scab too, but IÂm relying on my Kocide3000 sprays to do the job there.

According to Michael357, to control CAR, Immunox spraying begins at tight cluster and continues until 1st cover which is 7-10 days after Petal Fall. According to one of his sources, the leaves are most susceptible when they are 3-7 days old, making the most important sprays from pink until 3 weeks post bloom. Apparently you are also supposed to add a protectant (like Captan which is contained in the Bonide) to the spray to help with resistance issues but IÂm still working out the reasoning for that (how does a protectant like Captain help if it doesnÂt target the same target disease as the Immunox?) If you were to incorporate Captan as a protectant, make sure you avoid your green-tip oil spray by at least 2 weeks to avoid phototoxicity issues.

For me this year, IÂm experimenting with Immunox on some trees and the other trees will get Ferbam. The trees that do get Immunox, IÂm going to try to get away with just 2 well timed sprays (same as Ferbam). I believe others (might have been Harvestman?) here have said that they have gotten away with just two sprays. So for me, I think the 2 sprays will be at 1) At tight cluster 2) At Bloom. Harvestman  if it was you who said you got away with just two sprays is that when you did it? Tight Cluster and Bloom?

If I add in my leftover Bonide FTS to my 2nd Immunox spray, I can probably kill a couple birds with one stone. The Captan in the FTS will act as a protectant. And, the FTS will help with PC.

Take the above notes with a grain of salt. IÂm a newbie at all this. IÂm just giving you the info IÂve gotten from various sources. This year will be the first year IÂm spraying Immunox.

Good luck,
-Glenn

I get a bit of CAR but not too bad. im more concerned with black rot and bacterial spot.

LL, make sure your spray is rated for the disease you have. I believe Immunox helps greatly against black rot. I don't think it helps at all with bacterial spot however. I found the best treatment for bacterial spot was copper (Kocide 3000) through shuck split and at leaf fall in the fall.

Scott

lycheeluva, A chainsaw to those shade trees will clean out a lot of the fungus too.

Glenn,

It was me that talked about Captan as a protectant, on the CAR gall thread. If you'll read closely, I mentioned that Captan is a protectant for scab, not CAR. Therefore adding Captan to Immunox probably won't help much. You would want to add a protectant effective against CAR, if that is the pest you are fighting. Since you are planning to do only a few sprays, I probably wouldn't worry about a protectant, unless the Immunox label specifically mandated it.

Olpea-
That makes more sense now. I do indeed have Scab issues as well, but I'm relying on the Kocide to get me though that. The (incorrect) idea (that I was questioning the logic of) of using the Captan as a protectant with Immunox occured in an offline conversation, so that will clear up my question for the both of us. Thanks!
-Glenn

Hi Glenn: If you read the section in the 2009 Midwest Tree Fruit Spray Guide for apples, you'll notice the recommendation for combining Nova (same AI as Immunox) with a protectant. See the note #2 in the right hand column under the section titled "APPLE TIGHT CLUSTER". The #2 note refers to the extended protectant program which includes Immunox/Nova as opposed to the "protectant program 7-day interval" which does not utilize Nova. You and I have to deal with CAR which complicates things some as far as fungicide choices. I haven't come up with a protectant to tank-mix with Immunox for CAR other than Mancozeb but, we had that discussion elsewhere. Why does the guide state that, "Growers using an extended protectant program should use an SI fungicide (Nova...)...(tank-mixed) with a protectant fungicide"? My best guess is resistance because the SI fungicides have resistance issues at least in some parts of the country.

Hi Olpea: thanks for beating the captan doesn't work for CAR back into my head, must have slipped out during the winter. Have you lost any peach or apple buds to old man winter yet? Sometimes the spray thing feels like trying to juggle 30 balls at once in my head!

Michael

Michael,

Here we've still got peaches in calyx, pink, and bloom. They've just been sitting there doing nothing for about the last week. We're supposed to get down to 22-24F Sun & Mon. I expect it will finish off our early blooming stuff, like apricots and Asian crossed plums. Otherwise it looks like it will thin everything else pretty hard. How about you? You're north of me, how far along are your apples? Anything in bloom?

scott-

I sprayed my stone fruit trees twice last fall and once in February with Kocide 2000 to try and prevent peach leaf curl this year. Taking your advice to continue to use copper on my stone fruit to try and prevent bacterial spot, what type of regimen (when and at what strength)would you recommend from now onwards. My peach and nectarines are currently at the pink tip stage. And if I spray with Kocide, is it ok to spray the following weekend with bonide to counter bugs?

Lychee:

I would not advise using Kocide on stone fruits once the leaves begin to emerge, unless it is a very, very weak mix. I applied what I though was a weak mix one spring, and it had a very negative effect on the emerging leaves. Not weak enough.

I think there is often some confusion between what is bacterial spot on peaches and what is peach scab. Google them, and you will see that their appearances can be very similar. One difference is that bacterial spot usually spreads also to the leaves, leaving a shothole appearance. If your leaves are healthy, you may in fact have peach scab, which is fungal, not bacterial, and may be susceptible to treatment with Captan or other fungicide. I use a fungicide called Topsin on peaches, but it is not readily available on the consumer market.

I rely on dormant Kocide sprays to deal with bacterial organisms on peaches, and it has been very effective in completely eliminating any shothole on my leaves, which remain healthy until the end of the season, even when some varieties of peach (like the white Sugar Giant) develop moderate scab on the fruits in spite of my efforts. I do not have leaf curl problems here, for which I am very grateful.

Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

olpea: contrary to my previous post here, my peach buds are in bud burst w/ pink calyxes and leaf buds barely starting to emerge if at all. The peach flower buds have thankfully been progressing very slowly for the last 2 - 3 weeks. My most advanced apple has about 1/2 of it's flower buds close to 1/4" green. We are supposed to hit 21 tonight, a high of 38 tommorrow and a low of 20 Monday night with this hideous wind throughout, not good. From the MSU charts, i gather that there should be some bud damage but nothing horrendous on either the apples or peaches. That chart may not account for wind though or prolonged lows, we'll see soon enough. We had a 21 degree low a week or 2 ago that didn't seem to bother anything.

Do you have any knowledge of dry soils being detrimental or beneficial to bud cold hardiness? Our ground is drying out deeper and deeper. Just dug 3 holes for some new apples Friday and they were dry from the top down. Last year my holes were damp to wet from the top down. The wheat farmers around here are pretty grumpy about the soil moisture situation with good reason.

Good luck with the next couple of nights.

Michael

I've read dessication is more of a problem with prolonged cold periods during dormancy. Uninhabitable places like Wisconsin, Minnesota, Montana, etc. sometimes have this problem. I don't think the amount of soil moisture in our climate will affect bud hardiness to any measurable degree, either in dormancy, or in the spring time.

We've had as wet a spring as ever here in the eastern part of the state. Giving the orchard a close look over yesterday evening, it looks like there are precious little peach buds still in calyx. A few pear buds may survive, but everything else looks to die a quick death tomorrow night.

LL, when I had bad bacterial spot I used Kocide through shuck split -- when those little flower remainders get a split on their sides. NC State has some spray program I found which mentions that copper can be sprayed that late if you have a bad disease problem. You need to use a dilute strength; I was using 2tsp/gal Kocide 2000 or 1tsp/gal of Kocide 3000. That disease is not as bad anymore so I have stopped the copper sprays after leaves are out. I did do two copper sprays this spring however.

As Don mentions, make sure you are getting holes in your leaves; if not, you probably don't have bacterial spot. Also I would look carefully at your air circulation. A little air circulation goes a long way towards moderating disease problems. Thin out the scaffolds to make your peaches more open.

Scott

How affective is a hose end sprayer for Immunox
Vince