Zip Lining. Should I or shouldn't I? Would YOU?
nicole___
3 years ago
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Should I or Shouldn't I?
Comments (8)MC, I'm so glad to have brightened her day. I hope I didn't ruin yours. ;) What your better half wants is exactly what's happened with our tree. It's gotten much fuller (wish I had pictures from this year!) and no new branches have appeared lower on the trunk. I was just careful not to prune too much at the bottom because I didn't want the lollipop look -- too much trunk and then a big poof of leaves. I agree with mjh that Japanese maples are often asymmetrical -- but yours is so beautifully symmetrical *except* for that one (or two?) low-growing branches. I don't think it'll look strange at all without them. If you decide to give it a go, it's really quite easy. Buy some new hand pruners. You want them sharp and clean. Nip the branch off very close to the trunk, but not so close that you're cutting into the trunk. That's it! It'll be fine, and I believe with these guys, you can prune any time of year, as long as you're not going to town on it. As for wind: Up here, where the winter wind can be brutal, the prevailing theory is to situate Japanese maples against a house or fence, to protect them from the Northwest winds. You shouldn't have nearly the same problem in Virginia....See MoreShould I....or, Shouldn't I?
Comments (2)I was in the market for a particular china pattern for a cup and saucer, broken when moved to America. It was not a normally exported pattern and I've searched for it here for more years than I care to remember. Ebay and replacements are not the only vintage china sources on the inet. I finally found a site giving my dinner service a run # so I'd know what to look for, and then googled until the cows came home. I found what I wanted half the price of what replacements were adertising it. I can appreciate the whole ball of wax you would like to have costing that price, given what they wanted for my measly little cup and saucer. But since that is a very well known brand, I'll bet you could find a source for it elsewhere as well. That said, since I'd been looking for the teacup and saucer for over forty years, I'd have paid a ridiculous amount for it to have it to finally complete my set. I have boughten antiques as investments, and normally wouldn't pay more than what I thought I could get out of them in return, and enjoyed them in the interim.......but if it's something I personally covet, I'm more likely to just figure what's it worth to me? Good luck whatever you decide....See Moreshould I or shouldn't I? refinish my old floors
Comments (3)cateyanne, Check out the "U-Sand" floor sander and "Waterlox" floor finish. I just sanded and refinished my "new" master bedroom floor (antique heart pine original to the house) and had great results with the U-Sand and Waterlox Original. The U-Sand uses four 6" random orbit disks and comes with its own vacuum system; there was some dust, but not much. It also gets right up to the edge of the floor -- you probably won't need to rent an edger. Yes, it's probably lighter than a "pro" machine and it'll take you longer to do the sanding, but as a first time DIYer I found that to be an asset. (I don't mind a little extra time if it means I'm less likely to damage the floor.) Waterlox is a penetrating finish that is very easy to apply and, since each coat "melts" into the previous coats, you don't have to sand between each coat. (Next time I'll probably screen before the final coat because in an old house dust particles seem to generate spontaneously.) I'm very happy with the product and final finish. I don't have any floor-specific pics online, but (provided I can do this correctly) here's a "before" finishing (mid-woodwork strip and refinish) pic: [IMG]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd195/Synrgystyk/Bedroom%20Renovation/baseboard.jpg[/IMG] and an "after": [IMG]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd195/Synrgystyk/Bedroom%20Renovation/P1020089.jpg[/IMG] The lower right corner of the "after" pic shows the same area of flooring as in the "before" pic. HTH Lorree...See MoreViking French Door Double Oven. Should I or shouldn't I?
Comments (18)The older Gaggenau ovens are 27" wide. The current ones are 30". both are standard sizes. Mine is from the first group of 30" and the interior front to back will hold a 16" pizza pan, but barely. I don't know if the current model has the same conformation. They also make a classic 36" oven, though they have recently updated it. Gaggenau is one of the most accurate ovens on the market, though you pay for it. People here are happy with the side opening Bosch, which has a more accessible price. Bosch used to have the biggest cavity, but I don't know if that's also true for the side opening one. Definitely worth checking out. I'll say again, GE's ovens have a poor reputation. Uneven heating and other control issues. Look at the AR and BS. Before you get too set on any kind of flexible surface induction cooktop, do read the manuals really really thoroughly. There are limits to the "anywhere you want", the amount of power delivered, etc. It's very different technology to the standard inductor rings--I didn't realize that's what you were talking about before--and I would definitely not go with Viking on that. Not without a lot of other guinea pigs reporting that it's great and that the customer service is also great if something fails. If you think you really want it, AEG (I think it's now part of Electrolux) and Siemans (BSH=Bosch, Thermador and Gaggenau here) are the companies that have been in it longest. I don't think AEG is offered in the USA. That leaves Thermador and Gaggenau to look at. You might like the new Gaggenau 36" which has two "freedom" panels on the sides and a big multiple ring in the center. I think you could do three of your big pots across--do read the manual to be sure, but I think you can power share the front and back zones with one big pot in the middle of a freedom, which I think is four oblong inductors. But, again, you pay for it. Modern dishwashers are very different from your old Kenmore. They're designed for energy and water savings first, and cleaning second, ease of use third and drying a lag behind. Most people love Miele--mid-range on up. It's not as big, but genuinely loved. Most DWs are pretty good. Find one that fits your loads, and it'll probably be okay. Most of the work now, is done by enzymes in the detergent, rather than heat or power, and most machines require rinse aid (surfactant to loosen the water) for drying. Not spot prevention, but to actually get your dishes dry....See Morenicole___
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agonicole___
3 years agonicole___
3 years agonicole___
3 years ago
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