Need advice on fixing over compacted soil around a newly planted tree
ymg200
3 years ago
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krnuttle
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Jade plant with major soil compaction!
Comments (12)I know just what you mean...I became a plant lover as soon as I bought my own place. It just makes it so much more cozy. But you have to be careful or else your house will look like a greenhouse in no time!! I would break off all the old soil and tease the roots gently. I'm no expert at all, but by the way you described the soil, I don't see a need for ANY of it to stay attached to the roots. If the soil is dry it will make this project much easier. Yes, you can still do 50/50 regular soil and perlite, in my opinion (but to tell you the truth, it's probably better to use C+S soil and perlite, but if it's a real pain to go get it then you should be ok...I've potted a bunch of little jades in regular potting soil and perlite and they are doing just fine). As for cutting (I'm assuming you mean the roots), that's totally up to you. It will most likely stimulate new growth. Also, if you're plant is potbound and you don't want to pot it "up", you should probably trim the roots to give it more space. (it might not be a bad idea to prune the top of the jade also to keep it balanced and to also stimulate fresh compact growth...if you want, do a search on the C+S forum on jade pruning). I hope that helps! Gabi...See MoreCrying over my soil discovery: need advice
Comments (35)Review the link I attached - the depth of the berm is dependent on the area it covers, rather than determined by what plants you'd like to grow on it. If the berm is intended for a small area, then the maximum soil depth for planting will not be as generous as it would with with a larger berm with a greater depth. About 20 years ago, I constructed a large berm (about 750sf) in a portion of my backyard to correct a slope, help establish a privacy barrier and provide a planting area under difficult soil conditions. The maximum depth was 16-18" but it was not uniform - other interior portions of the berm were not as deep. I planted the berm with a variety of trees and large shrubs and filled it in with smaller plants. Everything established rapidly and grew well - the berm plantings thrived in every respect. Today, this is a lushly full privacy screen with mature plantings......I've never lost a single plant. I recently planned and supervised the construction of a series of berms for a large design project I was doing - the smallest was around 150 sf, the largest about 600. Logically, the largest plants (intended mature size) were planted on the larger berms. Berm planting tip: do not plant trees or your signature plant on the exact apex of the berm - it will look awkward (ok - dumb!!). Instead, plant just off to the side. IME, the larger the berm you can manage to fit in, the better it will look - think generously :-)...See MoreWill mulching over hard compacted soil help it to soften?
Comments (30)I'm sure different areas and soil types vary but my experience with mulch here in Austin, TX has been very good. Trying to make good gardening soil here takes effort. We're on scrub land to begin with, not good for much except raising really hardy cattle. Vegetable gardening is what I'm working towards and it's a harsh learning curve when you've got 3" of soil on top of limestone bedrock if you're lucky. I like no till, I like the idea and concept. If you have time, it's great. Nothing will take patience like trying to build soil no till in our area. We have plentiful cedar mulch and I use it extensively on my yard. The best way I've found in our climate, soil type is to prep a garden by tilling the entire area well and then adding copious amounts of finished compost and tilling/mixing it. Then you lay out your garden plots and with a shovel, scoop that now refreshed/tilled soil onto what are the garden beds and leave the path bare. So you've taken that 3" of soil and Very quickly turned it into a workable 6" but only in the beds. I then go in and put mulch heavily in the paths. We're talking 6" at least, if not more. I pile it on, it makes an excellent path to walk on, it's good for your back and it holds a huge amount of moisture when it rains which is lacking in our area. Over time this organic matter will break down and several years later you could grow vegetables in the path if you wanted. No till will work, it just takes a huge amount of time. Green manure works wonders. Leguminous plants like clover, vetch, peas and the like can do wonders over time. Season after season you could turn poor soil with no compost very fertile. If you cut down the green tops you can use them as a mulch as well. Using daikon and root crops to open the soil works as well. Masanobu Fukuoka was a huge proponent of using radish like daikon for this purpose. It's fast growing and if you planted it repeatedly it'll open the soil the way a plow would. It takes time, but if you were working on a large area or acreage it's the slow steady pace of changing land. If you have issues with weeds you can put down cardboard underneath mulch in pathways to smother them. Several layers of cardboard will break down rapidly and in our area we use it to smother bermuda grass. Even if we get a bunch shooting up on top of mulch we've put down we'll put cardboard down and mulch heavily...again. In the garden beds themselves if we have issue I'll do the same thing on the beds but with newspaper. I cover the garden bed, then put 3" or so of compost on top of the bed to smother out the bermuda grass instead of trying to weed them. It's less work, works better long term and builds up the soil. So, long story short, mulch is great. Use lots of it. It takes time to break down but I've seen no downside to it. It improves soil, holds moisture, provides habitat for beneficial bugs and worms who do the work of improving soil for you....See MoreRecipe for using deep-taproot plants to break up soil compaction?
Comments (18).. gardengal48, Thanks for the reply. I donâÂÂt have the resources to invest in a rain garden right now. All but one of our downspouts empties on to our property either directly or across the driveway and then onto the grass. IâÂÂll divert the last one from the street before the season starts in earnest. The lawn out front slopes away from the house and IâÂÂve noticed when IâÂÂve left a sprinkler on too long during my weekend deep watering routines it will leak through crack in the pavement to the street and quite some distance from the sprinkler. We have a winter rainy season and remain pretty dry the rest of the year. So we get a lot of rain during one season and our soil out front just isnâÂÂt holding it in. I planted a couple of trees out front and I think thatâÂÂs starting to do the trick on one side. The other side has an old tree right smack in the middle. IâÂÂve been propagating California poppies from an 89 cent pack of seeds I bought as an impulse buy in a drug store some time ago. I threw some seeds around when we first moved in and from the couple that thrived we now have them spreading about as I harvested the seeds over time. I go around and trim them in an attempt to keep them going all year long so their taproots keep running deeper and become more substantial. Time to spread a bunch of the seeds I saved now that itâÂÂs the end of November. One of these days IâÂÂll find some other suitable natives to plant. Native California plants offered are often Northern California and not always suited for our hot dry spot between the desert and the coast. For gardening IâÂÂm probably going to go down the container path. Our garage is in the back so a lot of ground is taken over by concrete. The rest of the yard was already planned and planted when we moved in and the open grass area is needed for the dogs. I havenâÂÂt figured out what to do with the lawn out front. IâÂÂm having troubles with the âÂÂwell conceivedâ part. In the meantime I keep the watering to a minimum and alternate between grass cycling and harvesting grass clippings for feedstock in the digesting bins I maintain for our yard clippings and kitchen scraps. to sense .....See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years agoEmbothrium
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
3 years agokrnuttle
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agodchall_san_antonio
3 years agoymg200
3 years agoEmbothrium
3 years agodchall_san_antonio
3 years agoUser
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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