This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

Lukkirish, I canoot upload any pictures, if I do, my computer will explode. I'm on strict orders not to uploand for this reason. However, when my daughter comes home from school today, I'll ask her to take a couple of pictures with her camera and upload them on her computer to this thread. How can I get the pictures posted directly in the thread as shown above, rather than a link? And thank you for offering to do this for me. I really appreciate it. Bronwynsmom: I do not want a trite look for this bathroom, although I am a lover of pink. When I hang dry all of my clothing it's pretty much pinks, lovely greens, and blacks with a blue something thrown in, plus of course denim. I appreciate the advice. Especially on the white trim. Someone up-thread told me to match the cabinetry, which is a fairly stark white, so that is a good thing. Is the best way to compare whites to go to the paint store and look at the sample chips under the flourescent lighting fixtures at that display? I do want a soft white... softer than the cabinets. What makes a white "soft" looking? That Ballard bedroom is gorgeous, Pink Fairy is a really lovely shade of pink as well. It is gorgeous with all of the beige/taupe trim and accent pieces. And again I'm seeing it a large, airy room. My bathroom is small and stuffed with things like sinks and cabinets. Is there a rule about what color does when you bring it into a smaller room and you are standing close to it? I would think that, to the eye, the color is intensified. Here is a link that might be useful: Benjamin Moore Pink Fairy

Not to worry about any side conversations up-thread. I enjoyed reading it, and it reminded me that electricians are people too. I purchased my GFI recepticles plus the Decora switches and cover plates at Lowes because I was very specific in what I wanted on the exterior. I didn't buy anything that goes into the wall. The can lights I purchased were expensive, and I bought them for what they looked like. 5 inch cans aren't really "standard" so I thought that it might be easier for me to present the cans and the baffles to my contractor rather than have him run back and forth to HD or Lowes. But the cans went back anyway.... So the only material I had for them was the light fixtures, glass shades, and Decora switches and cover plates, and GFIs, plus the Broan vent light unit (which is fabulous). As a homeowner, I am very very specific about placement of various "improvements" during a renovation. I've drawn on graph paper the wall itself showing the exact placement of the light fixtures, how many inches from the soffit, above the inset medicine cabinet mirror, where the outlet boxes are located with respect to the backsplash, etc. I have found that in writing everything out, at least I've told the tradesmen once and then it's written down, so I'm covered there. In the case of this bathroom, the vanity is 55.5" wide and will have two sinks, two light bars, two inset mirrored medicine cabinets, and two outlets. It's a very tight space with a lot going on, so every inch matters. I've approached my contractor and his electrician more humbly because of your posts. Of course, the fact that I know almost nothing abut electrical work is very obvious, I'm not pretending that I'm a pro, nor will I quibble over a few dollars. The working relationship is more important than that. Now about the other electricians, my contractor's own bid came in the lowest, and only one other company showed up in time to get a bid in before we had to get the work started, but this company couldn't do the work in time anyway. Another company failed to return my call, and a third company called too late. All in all, since we have not had lights in this room for years (except the Solatube which was added last summer-and the toilet/tub room has had lighting, so we're not in the complete dark anyway), so this will be a magnificent change for my family. Thanks again for everyone's ideas and suggestions!

@Amy Perlman I think you may be happier with a quartz that had larger sweeping veins such as callacutta or statuario so i was more similar to the look of your tile. From the photo, the quartz has a creamy background and more of a carrera like delicate veining and they may not work together. I have the same hex tile floors as Emily in two of my bathrooms. I used quartz with veining for the vanity tops. I don't think it competes or looks too busy, but I found a quartz that was the same look and colors as the floors (true white background with blue-grey veins). I'm not sure it would have worked if it was similar. There are so many marble like quartz options and all are intended to look like a specific type of marble. Are you having the tops fabricated/ purchasing a slab? Or are you looking for a top already made for your vanity?