Do you know that it was linoleum? True linoleum does not contain asbestos. It could have been attached to the floor with asbestos-containing adhesive, but this would only be an issue if he sanded all the way through. On the other hand, seamless flooring often did contain asbestos, particularly in a backing layer under the surface, as well as in the adhesive. Here is a helpful reference on linoleum-type flooring and asbestos: https://inspectapedia.com/interiors/Linoleum_Flooring.php#LinoAsb If the tests come back positive, the room needs to be cleaned by an asbestos remediation team that will suit up, erect containment, use positive pressure ventilation, employ HEPA vacuums and other techniques to clean up the dust, and possibly apply an encapsulant to lock down any remaining fibers. You don't need to throw out the items in the room if they are properly cleaned this way, but it could be expensive. As far as contamination and health issues, it's good he wore a dust mask, but was it a true respirator with asbestos filter canisters, or something less sophisticated? What happened with his dusty clothes? Was the room sealed off or could dust have drifted throughout the other rooms through cracks under doors and through the ductwork in the house? No one can say what his exposure was, if any, and whether it will result in a health issue decades hence. No medical test at this point would reveal anything even if there was a significant exposure. We are all exposed to asbestos at minute, but detectable, levels every day, because there are asbestos fibers from various sources that float around in the air at a "background level." I don't think most people contract asbestos-related illnesses from just one significant exposure, but it's always wise to avoid it. Wait for the test results. The bottom line is that you can't undo an exposure -- if it occurred -- and, even if asbestos was released, you can't really figure out what that exposure was since he was wearing some kind of protection. If the test comes back negative, you've learned an important lesson. If it comes back positive, you need to determine if more than one room is involved and get any contamination cleaned up properly and professionally. If done wrong -- like vacuuming yourself with a standard household vacuum -- it will make things worse. P.S.: For the future, it's always better to start your own thread with a new issue like this than piggyback on a related, but somewhat different issue.

My parents downsized for the 4th time and their latest house has LVP. It looks nice in their house and they picked a medium brown tone, so not a trendy color. Their last 2 houses had tile and houses before that had hardwood. I built last year and installed engineered wood floors through most of the house. I kept an open mind and did take a look at LVP when doing my research, but I didn't like the look and my DH hated how they sounded when he walked on large sample areas installed in the flooring showrooms. These days you are seeing the LVP being installed in higher end homes here in FL and buyers seem to accept it just fine, specially closer to the beaches. A couple of years ago I had started seeing the ceramic core floors with a wood veneer in Los Angeles, specially for mid/high end flips.

I think alot of the problems people experience with this flooring comes down to knowledge and following the installation instructions exactly. Some sites or videos gloss over alot of important steps that need to be followed. Firstly you should still let the planks acclimate to the room for a week or so. This allows them to get to the same temperature as the room and will prevent shifting. Also you need to prep the existing floor by cleaning it well, and making sure it is level. Any low or high spots need to be addressed. A plastic moisture barrier should be used, but do not use a thick underlayment since the Arowana planks already have a layer of underlayment attached. Be sure to leave a quarter to a half an inch between the planks and the wall to allow for expansion and contraction. I used a scrap piece of the planks and a rubber mallet to click the planks together. I was very liberal with hammering the planks together to make sure they locked securely. I hammered along the entirety of each seam where the planks meet. After about 6 months of use with a dog, cat, toddler, and two adults, I have not noticed any issues. I got the cappuccino color. Only complaint was how pricey the transition pieces were from the manufacturer. Luckily I only needed one.

Another thing to consider when looking at the engineered floors is plank length. I just realized why I didn't like some of the photos I saw ... they had too many short pieces which gives the floor a choppy look and to me, it looks too much like a tile effect. The Uptown Floors suggested above sound great, and I will look at them more closely, but they still have "shorter" board (12" to 8 ft). I am looking at another company with board lengths from 3 ft to 12 ft. Those longer boards make a big difference in the overall look in a larger open floor plan. The longer boards do cost more, so I need to do some more comparisons and value of spending more for a more pleasing look. Their other specs are mostly similar. I think floors are going to be my hardest decision!